Full Eibach Prokit----GET IT!

KLR STINGER

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Hi Folks,

After months of waiting, I received my Eibach pro-kit springs and sway bars a week ago, and got around to installing this weekend. Some install tips are below, but in quick summary..DO IT. Completely transforms the car. Car rides better than stock. All the unsettled behavior mid corner from the rear is gone. No additional noise or harshness. Turn in is instant, with no roll. I've done springs and says on many cars, and this is the most trans formative so far. I'm going to play with swaybar settings once I get some adjustable end links, but I'm rear rear firm, front soft right now.

Installation notes:

Rear sway
Degree of difficulty: 4
Tips: the only real issue is the one inboard, driver side nut. It's pretty well blocked by the fuel tank filler hose. I had to use a flex head gear wrench to get underneath the hose and have any room to swing it, leaving little leverage, but steadily wrenching it came off. After that the other 2 bolts and nut come out easy and it slides out the driver side.

Rear Springs
Degree of difficulty: 2
Tips: These come out no problem. Undue the lower shock mount and spindle from the lower control arm, and out they come. Use a jack to compress once new ones are in and bolt back up. Easy Peasy

Front Sway
Degree of difficulty: 3
Tips: Easier than the front. Removing harness from power steering. Remove end link nuts. ( a hollow socket set helps if you dont have a high speed impact). Then remove sway bar brackets to subframe and it drops right out.

Front Spring
Degree of difficulty: f*ck you Kia
Tips: These sucked. By far the most tedious spring install I've done. On an AWD literally every suspension component has to come off the spindle. While Annoying, and time consuming, thats not the shitty part. There are three compression fit ball joints per side that need to be removed. These ride in steel inserts inside the alum spindle. They were a huge PITA to pop free from spindle. Now had I bothered to get the OEM ball joint separator tool, probably would not have been that bad. But without it was a hell of a job to break them free. Improvised a small 3 jaw puller, and repeated banging till free. After freeing those, getting out strut assembly was easy. I have a floor standing spring compressor which makes the actual spring sway a breeze.

Don't even think of doing this without the right separator tool. Go to hyundai/kia and get one. Pickling fork style will not work. Alternatively
Something like this should work: 204-592 Lower Arm Ball Joint Separator Tool


All in all well worth it though!
 
Pics?
 
Here is all done
 

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Man that did wonders for the poke you had in the rear!

I actually ordered the Eibachs this morning. Waiting on wheels and tires before I install.

Any rear shots?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That’s kind of personal, don’t you think? Ha!

Car looks great! I am really considering doing something similar. I may start off with just the rear sway bar.

Well, I was gonna say "any butt shots?" but didn't want to cause any confusion. :whistle:
 
The rear is the money shot, but don't have any at hand. I'll take some tomorrow.
 
I wonder if the front rwd will be as difficult to install...
 
Hi Folks,

After months of waiting, I received my Eibach pro-kit springs and sway bars a week ago, and got around to installing this weekend. Some install tips are below, but in quick summary..DO IT. Completely transforms the car. Car rides better than stock. All the unsettled behavior mid corner from the rear is gone. No additional noise or harshness. Turn in is instant, with no roll. I've done springs and says on many cars, and this is the most trans formative so far. I'm going to play with swaybar settings once I get some adjustable end links, but I'm rear rear firm, front soft right now.

Installation notes:

Rear sway
Degree of difficulty: 4
Tips: the only real issue is the one inboard, driver side nut. It's pretty well blocked by the fuel tank filler hose. I had to use a flex head gear wrench to get underneath the hose and have any room to swing it, leaving little leverage, but steadily wrenching it came off. After that the other 2 bolts and nut come out easy and it slides out the driver side.

Rear Springs
Degree of difficulty: 2
Tips: These come out no problem. Undue the lower shock mount and spindle from the lower control arm, and out they come. Use a jack to compress once new ones are in and bolt back up. Easy Peasy

Front Sway
Degree of difficulty: 3
Tips: Easier than the front. Removing harness from power steering. Remove end link nuts. ( a hollow socket set helps if you dont have a high speed impact). Then remove sway bar brackets to subframe and it drops right out.

Front Spring
Degree of difficulty: f*ck you Kia
Tips: These sucked. By far the most tedious spring install I've done. On an AWD literally every suspension component has to come off the spindle. While Annoying, and time consuming, thats not the shitty part. There are three compression fit ball joints per side that need to be removed. These ride in steel inserts inside the alum spindle. They were a huge PITA to pop free from spindle. Now had I bothered to get the OEM ball joint separator tool, probably would not have been that bad. But without it was a hell of a job to break them free. Improvised a small 3 jaw puller, and repeated banging till free. After freeing those, getting out strut assembly was easy. I have a floor standing spring compressor which makes the actual spring sway a breeze.

Don't even think of doing this without the right separator tool. Go to hyundai/kia and get one. Pickling fork style will not work. Alternatively
Something like this should work: 204-592 Lower Arm Ball Joint Separator Tool


All in all well worth it though!
Thanks, taking this info to my suspension guy who says he hasn't done a Stinger yet.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Hi Folks,

After months of waiting, I received my Eibach pro-kit springs and sway bars a week ago, and got around to installing this weekend. Some install tips are below, but in quick summary..DO IT. Completely transforms the car. Car rides better than stock. All the unsettled behavior mid corner from the rear is gone. No additional noise or harshness. Turn in is instant, with no roll. I've done springs and says on many cars, and this is the most trans formative so far. I'm going to play with swaybar settings once I get some adjustable end links, but I'm rear rear firm, front soft right now.

Installation notes:

Rear sway
Degree of difficulty: 4
Tips: the only real issue is the one inboard, driver side nut. It's pretty well blocked by the fuel tank filler hose. I had to use a flex head gear wrench to get underneath the hose and have any room to swing it, leaving little leverage, but steadily wrenching it came off. After that the other 2 bolts and nut come out easy and it slides out the driver side.

Rear Springs
Degree of difficulty: 2
Tips: These come out no problem. Undue the lower shock mount and spindle from the lower control arm, and out they come. Use a jack to compress once new ones are in and bolt back up. Easy Peasy

Front Sway
Degree of difficulty: 3
Tips: Easier than the front. Removing harness from power steering. Remove end link nuts. ( a hollow socket set helps if you dont have a high speed impact). Then remove sway bar brackets to subframe and it drops right out.

Front Spring
Degree of difficulty: f*ck you Kia
Tips: These sucked. By far the most tedious spring install I've done. On an AWD literally every suspension component has to come off the spindle. While Annoying, and time consuming, thats not the shitty part. There are three compression fit ball joints per side that need to be removed. These ride in steel inserts inside the alum spindle. They were a huge PITA to pop free from spindle. Now had I bothered to get the OEM ball joint separator tool, probably would not have been that bad. But without it was a hell of a job to break them free. Improvised a small 3 jaw puller, and repeated banging till free. After freeing those, getting out strut assembly was easy. I have a floor standing spring compressor which makes the actual spring sway a breeze.

Don't even think of doing this without the right separator tool. Go to hyundai/kia and get one. Pickling fork style will not work. Alternatively
Something like this should work: 204-592 Lower Arm Ball Joint Separator Tool


All in all well worth it though!
Your difficulty rating is 1-5 or 1-10 and i probably wouldn't try the front springs anyway to much for my skill level but the back sounds doable for me so maybe I'll just save money there
 
Link for purchase? How much for the system you got? How much for the install?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Same question here.....

It's not much different, but you obviously don't have the driveshaft to deal with. from the KDIS system instructions, its basically the same, and you still have to separate the ball joints for the lower arm, compression arm, and tie rod end. Just don't need to pull out the drive shaft, which is really just loosening one nut.
 
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Link for purchase? How much for the system you got? How much for the install?

Look around. All the vendors list them, but most drop ship. Meaning if they are not in stock might be a delay. I waited 3 months almost. Best to ask if they have them physically in stock. Price around $610. Install I did myself like everything, so no idea what someone would charge. Figure at least 6 hours for competent shop without snags.
 
Drop shipping is the reason I didn't use any of the usual vendors. eBay has the same prices and they tell you if they're in stock and when they will arrive at your address. Much better way to buy something like this.
 
Couple of quick booty pics. I'll get some outdoor glamour shots when the weather clears up
 

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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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