? For suspension experts

[Schroedes]

I have 2021 gt1 with 15k miles on it. In the last week or 2 I've noticed a small clunking at low speeds over small bumps.. seems to be front driver side.. I have aftermarket eibach sways on the front and rear set to the stiff setting and I'm also on ark gt-f springs. So I'm thinking it's not the strut etc I'm thinking maybe the stock end link on that corner could be bad? Maybe the sway caused more stress on it? I'd like to look myself before bringing to the dealer or just buy new links and install em.. what's your guys thoughts on what it could be? What would be a easy way to diagnose if it's the sway bar link? Dealership prob wouldn't warranty it anyways because of aftermarket parts. Any info is helpful. Thanks

 

[Stinger GT SS]

As you have aftermarket swaybars it could be that your endlinks are not tight enough thus making the clunking sound you are experiencing, get them checked & torqued up correctly this should fix the issue.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I agree its more than likely your sway bar endlink needing to be torqued down. If thats not the cause my next check would be the sway abr bushing mounting locations then finally all the bolts that wouldve been loosened to install your springs.

 

[Schroedes]

As you have aftermarket swaybars it could be that your endlinks are not tight enough thus making the clunking sound you are experiencing, get them checked & torqued up correctly this should fix the issue.

View attachment 78013

I will pull the wheel shortly and check these. How can a guy tell if the actual link is messed up... Play in the bushings?

 

[NS_Stinger]

I will pull the wheel shortly and check these. How can a guy tell if the actual link is messed up... Play in the bushings?

The endlinks naturally move quite a bit but this guy does a great job showing the sound it shouldnt make when properly tightened down.

 

[Schroedes]

The endlinks naturally move quite a bit but this guy does a great job showing the sound it shouldnt make when properly tightened down.

Ya I just pulled the wheels and checked em. Didn't seem to have play, they didn't move at all,drivers side took a small amount of tightening. I'm prob gonna just order some aftermarket ones for good measure. Every other bolt seemed tight etc down there so idk what the hell that little clunk is. Feels like I'm in a car with shitty struts. Weird

 

[Snowwhite]

They have to torqued down pretty hard and it’s hard to do with the Allen key-wrench combo required to do it. Most likely it loosened itself over time. I would tighten first before ordering new links.

 

[Schroedes]

They have to torqued down pretty hard and it’s hard to do with the Allen key-wrench combo required to do it. Most likely it loosened itself over time. I would tighten first before ordering new links.

I torqued it to 80 lbs.. seems to be a little better... Considering all my suspension mods I'm prob due for some heavier duty links anyways. Super pros are only $120 for the fronts. Any of you guys run your sways on the stiff setting front and rear?

 

[Snicklefritz]

Any of you guys run your sways on the stiff setting front and rear?

why would you do that? eibach says soft for street. I've never moved from soft because the ride is stiff enough.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I torqued it to 80 lbs.. seems to be a little better... Considering all my suspension mods I'm prob due for some heavier duty links anyways. Super pros are only $120 for the fronts. Any of you guys run your sways on the stiff setting front and rear?

I'm running soft front and rear, hard is supposed to be for track use, a few members run that but most of us are on the soft settings.

 

[Schroedes]

why would you do that? eibach says soft for street. I've never moved from soft because the ride is stiff enough.

When the shop installed my lowering springs they moved the sways to stiff, I kept them there. Maybe I should bump em back.. great on the turns tho

 

[Snicklefritz]

great on the turns tho

on smooth turns only, like a track. on commonly uneven public roads a stiffer car won't flex to the irregularities and you'll get the rubber patch going airborne and lose traction.

 

[Rodtheviking]

If you don't want your new adjustable links to start rattling put on a little thread sealant with PTFE to keep them quiet. Its not permanent and can still be adjusted or loosened if needed. I have Whiteline links and did this during install and they have been nice and quiet since.

 

[Schroedes]

If you don't want your new adjustable links to start rattling put on a little thread sealant with PTFE to keep them quiet. Its not permanent and can still be adjusted or loosened if needed. I have Whiteline links and did this during install and they have been nice and quiet since.

I will do that.. they seemed to quiet down now with that little bit of tightening, I didn't think it would happen

 

[Volfy]

Any of you guys run your sways on the stiff setting front and rear?

The limited amount of adjustability on these anti-roll bars are more useful for adjusting cornering attitude. Stinger typically has a tendency to understeer on initial turn in. Now, because front suspension is non-adjustable (unless I go coilovers) I could not dial in enough negative camber for a proper track alignment to correct that understeer, I set my front anti-roll bar (Whiteline) on the soft setting. My rear anti-roll bar is left on the firm setting. I prefer the more neutral steering this produces with my square setup. You'll have to judge it for yourself what settings work best for your own car's suspension setup.

Out on public roads in normal road driving, the difference isn't appreciable enough to notice either way. If it is, you are either a supremely talented driver or you need to start rethinking your relationship to your deity of choice.

 

[Volfy]

BTW, the clunk could be from worn bushings. How long have you driven on the EIbach bars? In that time, how often have you regreased the bushings?

 

[Schroedes]

BTW, the clunk could be from worn bushings. How long have you driven on the EIbach bars? In that time, how often have you regreased the bushings?

I checked em and made sure they're right. They've been on a year and I haven't greased em since I installed em. I'll get a grease gun on there this weekend

 

[Volfy]

Unlike the OEM rubber bushings, the hard polyurethane ones don't take much wear to start making noise. I try to grease mine about twice a year. Whiteline brackets don't come with grease fitting like the Eibachs do. In fact, they reuse the front OEM brackets. I added my own nipples to make greasing easier. The fronts are easily accessible. The rear brackets are a nightmare to install/reinstall, and so I sure as heck am not going to remove them to regrease.

Ungreased, the bar will dry rub against the polyurethane bushings and squeak... and probably wear faster. That's the price we pay for non-stock anti-roll bars.