FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!

[D.J.]

The reason not everybody agrees with you is because not everyone needed to change both pads and rotors. I've had zero problems with OEM rotors across our 3 Stingers/G70. And we put ours through their proper paces.

There is nothing inherently wrong with the OEM rotors, made by Brembo. OEM pads are the culprit.

I concur...

I too kept my OEM rotors, (I did machine them) - OEM rotors are not a problem.

 

[Ron]

I concur...

I too kept my OEM rotors, (I did machine them) - OEM rotors are not a problem.

I probably just wanted to play it safe and make sure to end that brake shuddering

 

[NS_Stinger]

My opinon is that the OEM rotors are actually fantastic rotors, it's the North American pad compound that sucks.

 

[Kiteflygolfdrive]

My 22 AWD daily driver developed the standard brake pulse around 16k miles. I read about multiple trips to the dealer. Changing rotors OR changing pads. There doesn’t appear to be one solid definitive answer which component is the problem. There seems to be 2 camps of folks. One saying the rotors are the problem. The other the OEM pads. I decided to do both. I went with K8SS pads and new R1 concepts blank rotors (considered drilled but that’s more for looks than performance). I didn’t want to have to do the job twice when the highest probability of success was to do it right the first time by replacing both. Still cheaper than the dealer and less frustration. Changed both myself in my driveway one afternoon. The hardest part of the job was removing the rotors. Some of the screws which mount the rotors were rusted on. And then the rotors was rusted on as well. “Several light” taps with a hammer helped remove the screws and rotors, I was sure to clean the mounting surface really well before installing the new rotors. Once installed I bedded them in as folks recommend. I’m now 400 miles since replacing both the rotors and the pads. No issues thus far. They feel great. I’ve recently done a few back to back intentional hard stops from 70-80 down to full stop and haven’t felt any pulsing. Super easy job. Just replacing the rotors and pads would be about 2-3 hours depending on how easy it is to remove the rotors. I also ceramic coated my wheels and calipers as well so it took me a bit longer.

 

[Thomby]

The hardest part of the job was removing the rotors. Some of the screws which mount the rotors were rusted on. And then the rotors was rusted on as well.

I've had trouble before on 15+ year old cars with original rotors (hammered them and tried a propane torch to expand them, before finding some screws that would thread through the rotor and push against the hub), but I'm surprised yours were that stuck as a 2022 with 16k miles. But I haven't seen the inside of our rotors, were they bare iron or coated/plated?

Might be annoying to go back in now, but while they're new you could add a light coating of anti-seize on the inside face to keep them from corroding together in the future. You can also put some on the outside of the rotor where the wheels mount, but if you do go very light (it's friction on that face that holds your wheels on and car up).

 

[Kiteflygolfdrive]

…, were they bare iron or coated/plated?

After cleaning I put a light coating of anti sieze between the rotor and the mount. when I did the job. I hope I don’t have to do this again. I kept the OEM rotors. I May have them turned and keep them for the future. Not sure if I will need them.

 

[Ron]

My 22 AWD daily driver developed the standard brake pulse around 16k miles. I read about multiple trips to the dealer. Changing rotors OR changing pads. There doesn’t appear to be one solid definitive answer which component is the problem. There seems to be 2 camps of folks. One saying the rotors are the problem. The other the OEM pads. I decided to do both. I went with K8SS pads and new R1 concepts blank rotors (considered drilled but that’s more for looks than performance). I didn’t want to have to do the job twice when the highest probability of success was to do it right the first time by replacing both. Still cheaper than the dealer and less frustration. Changed both myself in my driveway one afternoon. The hardest part of the job was removing the rotors. Some of the screws which mount the rotors were rusted on. And then the rotors was rusted on as well. “Several light” taps with a hammer helped remove the screws and rotors, I was sure to clean the mounting surface really well before installing the new rotors. Once installed I bedded them in as folks recommend. I’m now 400 miles since replacing both the rotors and the pads. No issues thus far. They feel great. I’ve recently done a few back to back intentional hard stops from 70-80 down to full stop and haven’t felt any pulsing. Super easy job. Just replacing the rotors and pads would be about 2-3 hours depending on how easy it is to remove the rotors. I also ceramic coated my wheels and calipers as well so it took me a bit longer.

That’s what I’ve been saying to do since 2018. Thank you. Change your rotors and your pads and you’ll never have a problem again.

 

[NS_Stinger]

The rotor screws should easily break free with a properly sized phillips bit and a simple battery operated impact. The impact does all the work. It would be easy to mess them up using an improperly sized hand screwdriver if thats what you tried to use, hard to get much leverage with one of those.

 

[D.J.]

The rotor screws should easily break free with a properly sized phillips bit and a simple battery operated impact. The impact does all the work. It would be easy to mess them up using an improperly sized hand screwdriver if thats what you tried to use, hard to get much leverage with one of those.

A hammer operated impact driver is better for this application.

 

[Snicklefritz]

A hammer operated impact driver is better for this application.

View attachment 87722

Never heard. Does that do what I think it does? twist the Philips with each smack of the hammer?

 

[D.J.]

Never heard. Does that do what I think it does? twist the Philips with each smack of the hammer?

Yes. And it does not "cam out".

It is the most correct tool for stubborn disk holding fasteners.

 

[Thomby]

Never heard. Does that do what I think it does? twist the Philips with each smack of the hammer?

A powered impact driver swings a weight around and slams it into a pin/cam, providing rotational impacts, to twist the fastener with a lot of momentary force. On a stuck Phillips head, if you're not leaning hard against it, it may spin the bit and destroy the screw head.

(Not to be confused with a hammer drill which usually has a ratchet to force the driver in and out as it spins, providing linear impacts, to help crack hard surfaces like concrete so a drill can get through more easily.)

A manual impact driver like @D.J. posted provides a rotational impact, but crucially, it's doing it at the same moment you're driving it into the screw with a hammer. If you've ever tried to get a really stuck screw out (Phillips heads are designed to "cam out"), often the problem isn't how much torque you can apply, but getting it to the fastener without stripping the screw.

I've had cases where I was leaning all my weight on the screw driver (linearly into the screw) to keep it from stripping as I turned it. This tool pushes the bit into the screw head with a lot of force while it's turning, so it accomplishes both things.

Edit: @D.J. beat me to it, but since he's from Canaduh, I'm disappointed he didn't go on a rant aboot how their Robertson square drive doesn't slip and is superior...

 

[D.J.]

Edit: @D.J. beat me to it, but since he's from Canaduh, I'm disappointed he didn't go on a rant aboot how their Robertson square drive doesn't slip and is superior...

I read this, while literally laughing out loud!

 

[LordKOTL]

Post in thread 'Shaking' Shaking

Following up with an observation here....

 

[SanDiegoBlue]

TL;DR (see 3 questions at end)

OK, so another post on brake vibration is likely that last thing anybody want to read... but after spending a couple hours re-reading the pages of this (and other) threads, I have a few questions.

Background is that at about 12,000 miles I started to feel the vibrations in pedal and steering wheel. Had gotten worse as the miles went on (now at 35,000 miles), Yes, I should have had this addressed earlier. Life got in the way. I have a 15 mile mostly freeway commute without a lot of stop and go -- so the brakes do not get heavy use. In fact I believe that maybe this is part of the problem... more aggressive driving may have kept these deposits at bay. I would like a reasonably well performing pad, but do not track the car and do not need ultimate performance.

I went to the dealership, but they were unwilling to help (said brakes were on a 10,000 warranty). I decided to live with them for a while as it is only evident when stopping from 40-70 (or so) mph and harder stops do not vibrate.

But now I would like to get this fixed. I plan to have the rotors machined and put on new pads. But I am partial to the low dust of the ceramic pads ('22 model with 20 spoke wheels are a pain to clean).

I have read a lot of posts by people who changed to this pad or that rotor, etc. and it was 'great' after 5,000 miles... but there is little information from members after changing their setup after 20,000 miles or more.

Questions:
1) for those who had vibrations and changed their setups and have put on over 20,000 miles are you still happy?

2) Are all ceramic pads a problem - or just the KIA ones put on these cars? I have read that some other brands had the vibrations return (maybe less though). Are there any that have worked without deposits recurring after many miles?

3) if there are no ceramic pads that completely solve this, what are the lowest dust semi-metallic pads that have reasonable/but not over the top (street) performance?

Sorry for the long post, but would love your thoughts. Thx.

 

[cLaw]

TL;DR (see 3 questions at end)

OK, so another post on brake vibration is likely that last thing anybody want to read... but after spending a couple hours re-reading the pages of this (and other) threads, I have a few questions.

Background is that at about 12,000 miles I started to feel the vibrations in pedal and steering wheel. Had gotten worse as the miles went on (now at 35,000 miles), Yes, I should have had this addressed earlier. Life got in the way. I have a 15 mile mostly freeway commute without a lot of stop and go -- so the brakes do not get heavy use. In fact I believe that maybe this is part of the problem... more aggressive driving may have kept these deposits at bay. I would like a reasonably well performing pad, but do not track the car and do not need ultimate performance.

I went to the dealership, but they were unwilling to help (said brakes were on a 10,000 warranty). I decided to live with them for a while as it is only evident when stopping from 40-70 (or so) mph and harder stops do not vibrate.

But now I would like to get this fixed. I plan to have the rotors machined and put on new pads. But I am partial to the low dust of the ceramic pads ('22 model with 20 spoke wheels are a pain to clean).

I have read a lot of posts by people who changed to this pad or that rotor, etc. and it was 'great' after 5,000 miles... but there is little information from members after changing their setup after 20,000 miles or more.

Questions:
1) for those who had vibrations and changed their setups and have put on over 20,000 miles are you still happy?

2) Are all ceramic pads a problem - or just the KIA ones put on these cars? I have read that some other brands had the vibrations return (maybe less though). Are there any that have worked without deposits recurring after many miles?

3) if there are no ceramic pads that completely solve this, what are the lowest dust semi-metallic pads that have reasonable/but not over the top (street) performance?

Sorry for the long post, but would love your thoughts. Thx.

Hey, just responding to you on your first question as it was something I kinda wish I had known. Not saying this info isn't out there, but everything is pretty conflicting. I am a used buyer, bought at 33k and felt the vibration. Changed my pads to EBC red and the vibration is definitely still there. Quite literally the same thing. Also, these red pads squeak like fking crazy. I was almost willing to just go back to stock pads and say fk it because if I have the vibration anyway might as well get rid of the squeak lol. Regardless, still have them on and I may be trading in soonish so I'm just living with the squeak and vibration, fk it at this point.

 

[Reaper33333]

You can get the hawk hps ceramic pads. They work good and of course no vibration. You can get them over at KNSBrakes.

 

[BIG-D]

Can't offer much experience wise as I have never had an issue, but maybe the auto hold function in the MY23 prevents this ?
I bedded my pads in right from the get go and I still had the cross hatch on the rotor right up to 8000km's.
I'm at 17000km's now and the brakes are awesome still.
I will flush the fluid at 20k regardless

Daz

 

[Alpinesting]

Well, after buying the car and seeing all the youtube videos that show just how people abused the brakes while driving this car,
I did experience this issue. Replaced the rotors and and pads and its all good.

 

[SanDiegoBlue]

Thanks for your replies.

You can get the hawk hps ceramic pads.

I thought the Hawk HPS pads were semi-metallic and not ceramic?

maybe the auto hold function in the MY23 prevents this ?

I think you are correct -- less time with the brakes sitting stationary on the rotors.

Anybody have 20k+ miles on their replacements?

How dusty are the HPS pads?

I assume there is not a noticeable difference between Hawk HPS and the HPS-5.0 for basic street driving?
Thanks again