Dashcam installation

7 hours seems crazy. I was hoping I'd have it done in 3 but I'm clueless with this stuff so we shall see. Where did you end up mounting the power magic pro? I'll be doing install of my blackvue 750 next week so any pics or links you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Tx.
 
7 hours seems crazy. I was hoping I'd have it done in 3 but I'm clueless with this stuff so we shall see. Where did you end up mounting the power magic pro? I'll be doing install of my blackvue 750 next week so any pics or links you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Tx.
Installed the DR900S-2 Channel including the power magic pro in about 2 hours which was a bit longer than I expected. Biggest frustration was finding a stable ground connection. Any questions, don't hesitate.
 
Installed the DR900S-2 Channel including the power magic pro in about 2 hours which was a bit longer than I expected. Biggest frustration was finding a stable ground connection. Any questions, don't hesitate.
Where'd you ground it? I used the metal bolt next to the driver's side fuse box but my dash cam is cutting out intermittently. I'm thinking I have a faulty wire kit since it seems like a solid ground.
 
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Where'd you ground it? I used the metal bolt next to the driver's side fuse box but my dash cam is cutting out intermittently. I'm thinking I have a faulty wire kit since it seems like a solid ground.
Unfortunately I'm in Sydney and the car is in Melbourne (1000km apart) so I can't upload a pic for a week so I'll do my best to explain. Once I finished the install itself I went "damn, should've taken some pics".

So, I tried a number of nuts under the drivers footwell and was really surprised by how few seem to be connected to the chassis and/or intermittent (poor connection). I didn't have the patience to try the one you used.....I finally found a steel bracket that has a "C" shaped head on it above the go fast pedal arm. I think it may be there to catch the accelerator pedal if the firewall deforms in an accident. It seems to be mild steel and is a really solid earth. In the middle of the the bracket is a predrilled hole (handy) that fits a 5mm nut and bolt. Clamp the ground wire under this and viola....
 
Most bolts are coated to prevent corrosion, you have to get thru that to get a good ground.

So removing a bolt that screws into a metal frame, you'd find a good ground on the threads, but not so much on the area around them or underneath the head of the bolt - which is where any kind of O-connector would make contact.

Easiest way to resolve is to use a small wire brush or similar attachment on a dremel tool to polish that area around the threads
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Most bolts are coated to prevent corrosion, you have to get thru that to get a good ground.

So removing a bolt that screws into a metal frame, you'd find a good ground on the threads, but not so much on the area around them or underneath the head of the bolt - which is where any kind of O-connector would make contact.

Easiest way to resolve is to use a small wire brush or similar attachment on a dremel tool to polish that area around the threads
Yes, became obvious after about 15 minutes. Happened to look up whilst performing an upside down reverse pike with twist and saw the metal bracket....problem solved
 
I just got the apeman C420D and was going to try and install it myself. Seeing that BB will install for $100, I might have to check with them. Would like to have it hardwired in rather than using the rear 12V outlet. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Kia Stinger
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