3.3TT Cleaning the intake valves with CRC

[WildBill]

Stinger generates significant boost at 2k RPM. That's why it's such an awesome engine to begin with.

2k with the throttle mashed will spin the snails harder due to the waste gate being closed up, more fuel being dumped in, etc.
But I don't really think you'd be producing boost with a light pedal just to maintain 2k

 

[MackyGio]

um, no.
you take off a hose downstream from there and squirt inside that hose.
i have done this, not guessing.
look on youtube there are videos on using this.

lol So that is not the place? Do you have a link to the video for our vehicle specifically or a picture of where that hose is?

 

[jmf_tracy]

lol So that is not the place? Do you have a link to the video for our vehicle specifically or a picture of where that hose is?

There is a small hose about Ø3/4" diameter about 6" downstream from there that i used.
watch this video to get an idea how to do it.

 

[brancky3]

um, no.
you take off a hose downstream from there and squirt inside that hose.
i have done this, not guessing.
look on youtube there are videos on using this.

What do you mean downstream? The picture I posted is the closest spot to the intake manifold short of spraying it directly on the throttle body.

 

[MackyGio]

There is a small hose about Ø3/4" diameter about 6" downstream from there that i used.
watch this video to get an idea how to do it.

What do you mean downstream? The picture I posted is the closest spot to the intake manifold short of spraying it directly on the throttle body.

Lol. Scotty uses a vacuum hose which I am assuming was what another member mentioned to use. I have seen videos and posts about spraying it short of the throttle body so I am assuming both are good? Hopefully Angel can do it this weekend and get us a video of what he did.

 

[WildBill]

2k with the throttle mashed will spin the snails harder due to the waste gate being closed up, more fuel being dumped in, etc.
But I don't really think you'd be producing boost with a light pedal just to maintain 2k

I checked tonight and with light pedal pressure, just maintaining speed, neither 2000 RPM nor 3500 RPM are making boost. This is according to the built in graphical dash gauge. It is at zero per the gauge and in actuality it's in vacuum (below 0) meaning the engine is consuming more air than the turbos are putting out at that moment.

So in neutral it would take even less effort. There should be no issue at all with taking the coupling off before the throttle body.

 

[brancky3]

You won't make any significant boost in neutral (or park) when there's no load on the engine.

 

[MackyGio]

Any updates to this? I'm down to a few hundred kilometers before I change my oil. Planning to do it on the day of the oil change. Going with Amsoil signature 5w30 again. Might move to Mobil1 extended 5w30 since amsoil is way too expensive for what I use the vehicle for lol.

 

[StevenTMAN]

I did this today. Easiest way on any car is usually your brake booster. On our cars, there is a vacuum line coming out of the driver side plastic area at the rear upper engine bay. Press and slide the clamp and slide the hose off of the connector. When you check for a vacuum line, always put a finger on it when the car is running. You'll feel the suction. Spray it in there. It's going into the intake manifold. A LOT easier than removing hose clamps on the throttle body.

 

[MackyGio]

I did this today. Easiest way on any car is usually your brake booster. On our cars, there is a vacuum line coming out of the driver side plastic area at the rear upper engine bay. Press and slide the clamp and slide the hose off of the connector. When you check for a vacuum line, always put a finger on it when the car is running. You'll feel the suction. Spray it in there. It's going into the intake manifold. A LOT easier than removing hose clamps on the throttle body.

Any chance you can get a picture of this vacuum line please? Thank you

 

[StevenTMAN]

 

[MackyGio]

View attachment 27900

Thank you! I've been postponing mine for a while now. Hopefully will get a chance next week.

 

[StevenTMAN]

One other suggestion: Warm your engine up then turn it off before removing that vacuum line. It's harder to pull off with it trying to suction to the connector.

 

[Manaz]

One other suggestion: Warm your engine up then turn it off before removing that vacuum line. It's harder to pull off with it trying to suction to the connector.

And harder to remove when it's cold as the rubber will be harder/stiffer.

 

[Rafael Morales]

I'm thinking about doing this and have a few questions.

Will spraying from that vacuum line on the driver side reach the throttle side valve? Has anyone tried a different vacuum line? Did anyone experience any negative effects from this?

 

[eflyguy]

Still waiting to hear all the amazing benefits.

75,000 miles on my GDI Sorento, no issues (well, except being rear-ended before Christmas..)

 

[Toddasaurus]

Curious, has anyone taken a look at the intake runners and/or valves yet?

I just got a borescope/endoscope, I'm thinking when I get some spare time I'm gonna see if I can snake the camera in through the intake manifold and take a peek at some of the intake runners, though I don't know if I'll be able to angle it enough to do it...

Also, I'll at least look inside the combustion chamber through the spark plug holes just for fun. But it won't really tell us much. Haha.

 

[eflyguy]

Haha..

 

[Flats392]

In for update.

So, did the vacuum line work , in the pic that StevenTman posted?

 

[Toddasaurus]

This is the vacuum line that I used...

....However, you may get better distribution by removing the cold side charge pipe (while keeping the coupling attached to reduce overspray), and then just spraying directly onto the throttle plate. This will also clean carbon deposits off the butterfly.

I ended up removing the surge tank/intake manifold to inspect the runners and valves, and noticed that the CRC cleaner left a substantial amount of oily residue all along the inside of the manifold. Cleaning said residue wasn't difficult, though. Anyway, if I were to do it again I'd just clean the valves by hand, and use the CRC spray directly on the valves (it dissolves the carbon buildup very effectively when allowed to sit), as removing the IM/ST is not difficult nor time consuming.