3.3TT Can I replace a bent front strut (ECS) myself? The dealer says there's a single use wiring harness that must be replaced too

psperl

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My 2022 AWD GT2 has been making a ton of noise up front whenever I hit a small bump. I sounds like a blown strut hitting the bump stop. I asked a local shop to take a look, and they didn't think the strut was blown and couldn't find anything wrong with the suspension from a visual inspection. I took it to the dealer, and they said it was fine. I told them they were wrong, and they looked again and now they think the front strut is bent. They quoted me $1950 to replace the strut ($850), strut mount ($190), and some wire harness ($190) they said is single-use only and is part of the ABS sensor system. I can get all these parts for $500 less online, but I wanted to ask some questions to the community:

1. Has anyone else ever heard about needing to replace this wire harness during strut replacement? The part number is 56190-J5050. The strange part is, it looks like it's included with the strut assembly 54611-J5570 as per this diagram. Is the dealer incompetent, or the strut assembly diagram inaccurate?

2. Can I do this myself? I read on this forum that the front struts are a PITA, but doable in 2-4 hours. I read that lots of people do this as you need to remove the struts to put on lowering springs. Do you need sprint compressors to do this? I'm much handier than the average person and have most tools, but I'm not an exceptional mechanic as far as car people go. 15 years ago I installed coilovers and sways in a 996, but that's all the suspension work I've ever done.

Thanks everyone
 
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Looks like removing the front struts is as simple as virtually every other car with struts.

Apparently a ¼ square extension works to open the knuckle from the strut, for dead simple separation.
3m33s


This guy's video shows the connection and wiring is NOT single use.


You will certainly need some form of spring compressor to reassemble the new strut and spring together.
 
Thank you, I appreciate the videos very much and am mildly embarrassed that I didn't find them myself.
 
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Is your strut actually bent?
It sounds like multiple people suggested that it wasn't.

Was this vehicle involved in some sort of collision?
 
Those videos look to be for RWD. Removing awd strut is lot more involving. I would suggest removing the strut with knuckle attached to it. Especially if you haven't done it before. Plan on spending most of the day.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is your strut actually bent?
It sounds like multiple people suggested that it wasn't.

Was this vehicle involved in some sort of collision?
I don't personally know for sure if the strut is bent, but something is definitely wrong with the front driver side suspension. It bangs like a blown strut over small bumps, but the strut definitely isn't blown from the bounce test.

The first shop i brought it to was looking for drastic things like a broken sway bar drop link or blown strut and didn't see anything. They recommended I bring it to the dealer.

The dealer didn't look under the car at all until I made them. They took it for a short drive and thought the car was fine. I had to remind them it was a stinger and the ride should be very well damped. Then they took it for a second test drive, heard the bumping, then looked underneath.

The car wasn't in a collision but I've definitely hit multiple huge potholes and clipped a curb once. I can certainly believe something was bent in those incidents.
 
Those videos look to be for RWD. Removing awd strut is lot more involving. I would suggest removing the strut with knuckle attached to it. Especially if you haven't done it before. Plan on spending most of the day.
There are multiple ways to skin this cat....

Whichever is easiest.
If it helps - 2 files attached
 

Attachments

Those videos look to be for RWD. Removing awd strut is lot more involving. I would suggest removing the strut with knuckle attached to it. Especially if you haven't done it before. Plan on spending most of the day.
Yeah this is what I had read in other threads on this forum. Thanks for pointing out the RWD/AWD difference.
 
I don't personally know for sure if the strut is bent, but something is definitely wrong with the front driver side suspension. It bangs like a blown strut over small bumps, but the strut definitely isn't blown from the bounce test.

The first shop i brought it to was looking for drastic things like a broken sway bar drop link or blown strut and didn't see anything. They recommended I bring it to the dealer.

The dealer didn't look under the car at all until I made them. They took it for a short drive and thought the car was fine. I had to remind them it was a stinger and the ride should be very well damped. Then they took it for a second test drive, heard the bumping, then looked underneath.

The car wasn't in a collision but I've definitely hit multiple huge potholes and clipped a curb once. I can certainly believe something was bent in those incidents.
Well it certainly possible, I wouldn't say it is common for a strut to be the first thing that is damaged/bent when hitting potholes or curbs.

Usually something else would have to be bent as well.

Also, what a pathetic diagnosis from the dealership. Literally pathetic.

"we drove your stinger, and we found it drives just as good as that Kia soul over there":thumbup:
 
Well it certainly possible, I wouldn't say it is common for a strut to be the first thing that is damaged/bent when hitting potholes or curbs.

Usually something else would have to be bent as well.

Also, what a pathetic diagnosis from the dealership. Literally pathetic.

"we drove your stinger, and we found it drives just as good as that Kia soul over there":thumbup:
I'm with you. I didn't expect a bent strut and am disappointed in the dealership in general. I tried to find the tech to ask if he was certain the control arm wasn't also bent, but he had left for the day.

I've already brought the car to two shops to diagnose this issue, but I suppose I can try and find a suspension/alignment specialist shop and bring it again. Neither the dealer nor the independent shop charged me for diagnosis, so it's just my time so far. I just don't know any places like that around here. I'm sure they exist, I just need to do some research.

I'll also say that the car doesn't appear to drive obviously worse over smooth asphalt. It still tracks straight, and I doesn't feel unsafe under cornering, although I'm not hooning it. Not sure what that means to be honest.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
There are multiple ways to skin this cat....

Whichever is easiest.
If it helps - 2 files attached
Just from personal experience, took me around 6 hours to do one side. But than, took me less than hour for the second side. Thanks for those manual links.
 
The wiring is shown as a separate part number and price so I expect it does not need to be replaced and your diagram shows it as a separate part. Maybe check yourself by having a look.

With regards to the strut. It's a shock absorber with a spring on the outside.

Your symptom is the bump stop itself........ or it could be the shock absorber that has failed and like any gas strut is still working but not to it's full capability. The bump stop is a cylindrical piece of rubber or similar sitting at the top of the shock absorber. When it fails the shock absorber knocks up against housing giving that annoying thud.

I doubt that the shock absorber is bent as it wouldn't work.

It's really a simple problem but it still requires pulling the whole strut off the car.

I have replaced both front struts on a Pontiac G8 V8 (Commodore SSV). Replaced the bump stops that were both broken, the shock absorbers (come complete as a "strut"), a couple of plastic ties that held the dust cover on etc. I could have gotten away with not replacing the struts and just the bump stops.

You need a "spring compressor" to pull the strut apart once you get it off the vehicle. You can basically re use all the parts if you just want to replace the bump stop or shock absorber, but it still requires pulling the whole lot off the car and apart

Spring compressors are dangerous. Be confident of doing it otherwise don't do it.

Any reasonable suspension place can fix a problem like this.

Here is a Kia Stinger Front Strut diagram from a Kia dealer. This is the RWD version as no AWD in Australia

The link with the parts list is attached and Aussie pricing so you need to use roughly two thirds.

This is shown without the wiring harness that is in your photo. You said, "The part number is 56190-J5050."

54626 is the Bump Stop. Kia calls it Bumper Rubber


1730593640889.webp

54626 is the Bump Stop. Kia calls it Bumper Rubber

Part Number: 54626J5000
 
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I ended up having the strut and strut mount replaced at a local mechanic. I don't like spring compressors. The good news is that the terrible noise and bumpy ride was fixed! I don't know if it was the strut mount or strut itself, but it's fixed now.
 
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