Best tune for CPI?

[cLaw]

Was looking into some threads and came across a couple saying that Lozics tune worked best with cpi. On top of this SXTH is making some great developments recently and I was wondering what the best purchase would be when trying to go the CPI route. I feel as if the Ek1 lite w JB4 is great but is there a bigger benefit to go full ecu tune opposed to flashing? Or is the difference minimal? Honestly my main goal is to reach 500hp and was wondering what the safest/best option would be given that I will be running cpi.

Of course pushing 5XX hp has its risks in general but I still want to do it correctly and not with something overly aggressive/waiting to blow the engine.

I currently run map4 with no issues with my jb4 and fuel it sensor.

 

[DavidinGA]

I personally believe EK1 is going to be the best platform shortly...

It seems to me that with the availability of the BEF via EK1 for JB4 it is now more competitive with dedicated ECU tunes. I daily drive mine and prefer a platform that can I can adjust accordingly to fuel availability and driving style vs being locked into a dedicated ECU tune.

 

[cLaw]

I personally believe EK1 is going to be the best platform shortly...

It seems to me that with the availability of the BEF via EK1 for JB4 it is now more competitive with dedicated ECU tunes. I daily drive mine and prefer a platform that can I can adjust accordingly to fuel availability and driving style vs being locked into a dedicated ECU tune.

This is what I was thinking as well. All things considered it seems to be the best option to go fast with cpi and also daily drive

 

[Yves998]

I hate to deal with lap3 cult followers but I can’t argue that lap3 stage 2.5 is the best canned tune for CPI for now, if performance is the only thing you’re chasing.

BEF from both SXTH and BMS are good. But since you are on CPI, you might want to go SXTH since Nathan can lift your shifting timing cut to 12 deg instead of 0 deg. It’s totally safe when octane is sufficient thanks to CPI.

 

[cLaw]

I hate to deal with lap3 cult followers but I can’t argue that lap3 stage 2.5 is the best canned tune for CPI for now, if performance is the only thing you’re chasing.

BEF from both SXTH and BMS is good. But since you are on CPI, you might want to go SXTH since Nathan can lift your shifting timing cur to 12 deg instead of 0 deg. It’s totally safe when octane is sufficient thanks to CPI.

Interesting, I am chasing performance but at the same time it is my daily. I feel as if the most reasonable purchase would be sxth just off of the flashing capabilities and room for improvement in the future.

I mainly want a strong ecu/tcu tune to give me a great 1/4mile with cpi and I think sxth is the way to go.

I still have around a month before I purchase the tune so I will continue to watch the threads and see what people are saying, thank you!

 

[Terry@BMS]

JB4 with our E85 BEF, around 60% E85, is the hot ticket.

 

[DavidinGA]

JB4 with our E85 BEF, around 60% E85, is the hot ticket.

Do you have anything further you guys are working on with regard to your BEF benefit/potential gains yet to be released? Full E85 BEF coming? Etc? Or is it pretty well finalized as is?

 

[GennyGuy]

Was looking into some threads and came across a couple saying that Lozics tune worked best with cpi. On top of this SXTH is making some great developments recently and I was wondering what the best purchase would be when trying to go the CPI route. I feel as if the Ek1 lite w JB4 is great but is there a bigger benefit to go full ecu tune opposed to flashing? Or is the difference minimal? Honestly my main goal is to reach 500hp and was wondering what the safest/best option would be given that I will be running cpi.

Of course pushing 5XX hp has its risks in general but I still want to do it correctly and not with something overly aggressive/waiting to blow the engine.

I currently run map4 with no issues with my jb4 and fuel it sensor.

I've had jb4, lozic, and lap3. I'm currently Lap3

As far as consistency and performance, Lap3 is still ahead of everyone. I think that JB4 BEF/EK1 has the potential to change that and you cannot deny the convenience of loading different maps, not needing to mail an ecu back & forth. And it cost a little less, that's important.

I'm not sure if by the 500 hp mark you were referring to crank hp or wheel hp. I'll assume whp for this response.

One thing about this platform is that at that power level, the heads have been known to lift. At that point, you will need specifically designed ARP heads studs ($350ish) instead of the stretch bolts that come in the car. The problem is that the job requires you to pull the entire motor. 20 hours is normal from what I understand, and that now brings that mod over $3K and there's no performance gain. Just creating an important safety net.

If you are not out to break records, the JB4 combo, may be a better route. And just be aware of limitations at that power level. I'm not sure what your budget is, but you will also need to upgrade your fueling. You will need to add in CPI or get a wmi kit in order to hit those numbers. As least responsibly and legitimately.

 

[cLaw]

I've had jb4, lozic, and lap3. I'm currently Lap3

As far as consistency and performance, Lap3 is still ahead of everyone. I think that JB4 BEF/EK1 has the potential to change that and you cannot deny the convenience of loading different maps, not needing to mail an ecu back & forth. And it cost a little less, that's important.

I'm not sure if by the 500 hp mark you were referring to crank hp or wheel hp. I'll assume whp for this response.

One thing about this platform is that at that power level, the heads have been known to lift. At that point, you will need specifically designed ARP heads studs ($350ish) instead of the stretch bolts that come in the car. The problem is that the job requires you to pull the entire motor. 20 hours is normal from what I understand, and that now brings that mod over $3K and there's no performance gain. Just creating an important safety net.

If you are not out to break records, the JB4 combo, may be a better route. And just be aware of limitations at that power level. I'm not sure what your budget is, but you will also need to upgrade your feeling. You will need to add in CPI or get a wmi kit in order to hit those numbers. As least responsibly and legitimately.

Thanks, this repsonse was probably the most insightful for me. I've heard of the ARP studs but I rarely see it mentioned in threads talking about pushing high hp. Also when asking about high hp risks, no company will tell you that you should look into them.

My main goal is to basically run a good tune with cpi. The fueling upgrade was in my plans from the start, I think I will give it more time for things to develop with sxth and eventually make my decision.

People have claimed (key word claimed) that they have ran these tunes with no studs for like XXXXX miles with no issues which is crazy but also anecdotal. Things definitely vary between vehicle though and I've also seen the opposite end of that.

Thanks once again.

 

[cLaw]

I've had jb4, lozic, and lap3. I'm currently Lap3

As far as consistency and performance, Lap3 is still ahead of everyone. I think that JB4 BEF/EK1 has the potential to change that and you cannot deny the convenience of loading different maps, not needing to mail an ecu back & forth. And it cost a little less, that's important.

I'm not sure if by the 500 hp mark you were referring to crank hp or wheel hp. I'll assume whp for this response.

One thing about this platform is that at that power level, the heads have been known to lift. At that point, you will need specifically designed ARP heads studs ($350ish) instead of the stretch bolts that come in the car. The problem is that the job requires you to pull the entire motor. 20 hours is normal from what I understand, and that now brings that mod over $3K and there's no performance gain. Just creating an important safety net.

If you are not out to break records, the JB4 combo, may be a better route. And just be aware of limitations at that power level. I'm not sure what your budget is, but you will also need to upgrade your feeling. You will need to add in CPI or get a wmi kit in order to hit those numbers. As least responsibly and legitimately.

Where are the studs available for purchase? Or do you need to contact ARP? Do you have them? I would actually be interested if this allows to safely run higher tunes/numbers reliably.

 

[GennyGuy]

Where are the studs available for purchase? Or do you need to contact ARP? Do you have them? I would actually be interested if this allows to safely run higher tunes/numbers reliably.

There's a guy, Travis on FB, that sells them. I'm not sure if he is on here. If you want his contact, just send me a PM. He is on the FB forums for this platform and a pretty straightforward guy. They are specifically made custom for our vehicle Too small of a group for mass production I believe, so they do custom batches for us at his request. They are not listed on ARP or any vendor site. He worked with them to create the item.

Yes, I have them. They are not installed yet. I don't know when I will do them because I go back and forth on end goals and financial commitment to this project. It's hard for me to justify doing the upgrade to stay stock turbo. So I might wait until I blow my motor and then have it done at that time. Also, the upgraded turbo options are either not cost friendly ($10K+) or not user friendly (hybrid turbos have not been good).

Yes, you can run higher numbers reliably. But the next issue is that nobody has solved the transmission limitations (600-650whp depending on your dyno). And that cost way more.

 

[cLaw]

There's a guy, Travis on FB, that sells them. I'm not sure if he is on here. If you want his contact, just send me a PM. He is on the FB forums for this platform and a pretty straightforward guy. They are specifically made custom for our vehicle Too small of a group for mass production I believe, so they do custom batches for us at his request. They are not listed on ARP or any vendor site. He worked with them to create the item.

Yes, I have them. They are not installed yet. I don't know when I will do them because I go back and forth on end goals and financial commitment to this project. It's hard for me to justify doing the upgrade to stay stock turbo. So I might wait until I blow my motor and then have it done at that time. Also, the upgraded turbo options are either not cost friendly ($10K+) or not user friendly (hybrid turbos have not been good).

Yes, you can run higher numbers reliably. But the next issue is that nobody has solved the transmission limitations (600-650whp depending on your dyno). And that cost way more.

Theres actually a guy on the lap3 facebook selling for 275 shipped that I may buy from right now just to honestly have them without the headache of waiting/going through multiple contacts.

What you're saying makes a lot of sense and I do agree, it does feel weird to put the studs in and stay on stock turbos the whole time. David from lap3 says the bolts stretching mainly occurs at around 100,xxx miles, but my car has around 40000 and was driven for 30000 stock, so I'm a little on the fence of the necessity/urgency of the mod.

In my mind CPI+LAP3 is linked to the studs and new turbos is linked to the trans. If you get what I'm saying, Ill probably do the studs with the lap3 tune and chill there knowing I am for the most part reliable. I don't believe I plan on going hybrid turbos right now or pushing past the trans limits besides fbo+lap3+cpi. Then again I don't know if that alone pushes the trans limits, but I don't believe so.

 

[GennyGuy]

Theres actually a guy on the lap3 facebook selling for 275 shipped that I may buy from right now just to honestly have them without the headache of waiting/going through multiple contacts.

What you're saying makes a lot of sense and I do agree, it does feel weird to put the studs in and stay on stock turbos the whole time. David from lap3 says the bolts stretching mainly occurs at around 100,xxx miles, but my car has around 40000 and was driven for 30000 stock, so I'm a little on the fence of the necessity/urgency of the mod.

In my mind CPI+LAP3 is linked to the studs and new turbos is linked to the trans. If you get what I'm saying, Ill probably do the studs with the lap3 tune and chill there knowing I am for the most part reliable. I don't believe I plan on going hybrid turbos right now or pushing past the trans limits besides fbo+lap3+cpi. Then again I don't know if that alone pushes the trans limits, but I don't believe so.

$275 sounds like secondhand, which will be perfectly fine. I bought mine as a just-in-case. There were supply issues before and $300 bucks was easy to part with for peace of mind. David has never given me a reason not to listen to him. But there have been heads that have lifted before 100K. These people were also not necessarily running the safest options and continuously trying to get more and more out of the car. Safeguards a lot of times were disregarded.

Trans is fine at that level. I do suggest a TCU tune, you'll enjoy the vehicle more. There's really no wrong one. They all work well and make the car feel more alive. Will also improve how fast your vehicle is.

 

[cLaw]

$275 sounds like secondhand, which will be perfectly fine. I bought mine as a just-in-case. There were supply issues before and $300 bucks was easy to part with for peace of mind. David has never given me a reason not to listen to him. But there have been heads that have lifted before 100K. These people were also not necessarily running the safest options and continuously trying to get more and more out of the car. Safeguards a lot of times were disregarded.

Trans is fine at that level. I do suggest a TCU tune, you'll enjoy the vehicle more. There's really no wrong one. They all work well and make the car feel more alive. Will also improve how fast your vehicle is.

Yea, he bought them from the guy you mentioned and ended up selling the stinger for a truck he said. So I don't see why not if its cheaper and he will ship to me directly.

If things stay the way they are now I will end up with lap tcu/ecu and do things the safest/reliable way. While I look to be fast and maybe get into the 10s with weight reduction I do not ever see myself pushing the car beyond a point it could take and removing limits or safeguards.

Things could change by the time I decide to get the tune and maybe Ill go sxth but who really knows, I appreciate you telling me all you did about the car and its limits as I didn't see it anywhere else by tuners or anyone pushing high numbers.

I'll be sure to shoot a dm if I have any more related questions!

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Yea, he bought them from the guy you mentioned and ended up selling the stinger for a truck he said. So I don't see why not if its cheaper and he will ship to me directly.

If things stay the way they are now I will end up with lap tcu/ecu and do things the safest/reliable way. While I look to be fast and maybe get into the 10s with weight reduction I do not ever see myself pushing the car beyond a point it could take and removing limits or safeguards.

Things could change by the time I decide to get the tune and maybe Ill go sxth but who really knows, I appreciate you telling me all you did about the car and its limits as I didn't see it anywhere else by tuners or anyone pushing high numbers.

I'll be sure to shoot a dm if I have any more related questions!

If you have any other questions, @AWDGT2 is one of the most knowledgeable stinger owners out there (not to mention one of the fastest) and is currently running the Sxth tunes. He also has not one, but two stingers, one for racing and one for daily driving, so id say he is pretty invested into the platform haha

 

[cLaw]

If you have any other questions, @AWDGT2 is one of the most knowledgeable stinger owners out there (not to mention one of the fastest) and is currently running the Sxth tunes. He also has not one, but two stingers, one for racing and one for daily driving, so id say he is pretty invested into the platform haha

Oh for sure, hes already helped me out with my logs a handful of times lol thank you!

 

[GennyGuy]

Yea, he bought them from the guy you mentioned and ended up selling the stinger for a truck he said. So I don't see why not if its cheaper and he will ship to me directly.

If things stay the way they are now I will end up with lap tcu/ecu and do things the safest/reliable way. While I look to be fast and maybe get into the 10s with weight reduction I do not ever see myself pushing the car beyond a point it could take and removing limits or safeguards.

Things could change by the time I decide to get the tune and maybe Ill go sxth but who really knows, I appreciate you telling me all you did about the car and its limits as I didn't see it anywhere else by tuners or anyone pushing high numbers.

I'll be sure to shoot a dm if I have any more related questions!

No problem.

 

[turboAWD]

$275 sounds like secondhand, which will be perfectly fine. I bought mine as a just-in-case. There were supply issues before and $300 bucks was easy to part with for peace of mind. David has never given me a reason not to listen to him. But there have been heads that have lifted before 100K. These people were also not necessarily running the safest options and continuously trying to get more and more out of the car. Safeguards a lot of times were disregarded.

Trans is fine at that level. I do suggest a TCU tune, you'll enjoy the vehicle more. There's really no wrong one. They all work well and make the car feel more alive. Will also improve how fast your vehicle is.

I read that FB thread as well - and as I understood it, David was saying that the OEM 3.3/3.8 N/A engines with 300-330 hp were stretching the bolts at 100K. With the implication being that the Stinger, even stock, might stretch it sooner.

I decided I'm not doing "all the things" this time around, so unless full E85 (not E85 mixed) becomes a reality, I'm just going to stay with jb4 + E40 / map 4.