Anyone find good center jack points?

Having had a car come off the ramps on top of me (even with a block behind the rear wheels) I would say Jack from the pinch weld behind the Place you are supposed to use and USE JACK STANDS!!!! Please for the love of god use jack stands. And not harbor freight ones! (alot are recalled for failing)
 
Having had a car come off the ramps on top of me (even with a block behind the rear wheels) I would say Jack from the pinch weld behind the Place you are supposed to use and USE JACK STANDS!!!! Please for the love of god use jack stands. And not harbor freight ones! (alot are recalled for failing)
Absolutely ALWAYS ALWAYS use jack stands if you are going to be under the car. The harbor freight ones are fine just make sure they aren't the recalled ones lol. I've used HF ones for years no issues.
 
I bought some cheap low profile ramps from WalMart for $50 and backed onto them since you have plenty of clearance in the rear. I borrowed a buddies jack and used two (with pucks) to lift the front. I put jack stands in for safety as close as I could get them. A little damage being better than death LOL. Super expensive, but look up Renn Stands. $200 a piece but look like the perfect solution.
 
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Take a look at Jackpoint Jackstands, pinch weld adapter and jackstand in one. (can't post links yet or I would).

They are not a cheap solution but I've used them on a few different cars and I think they're worth the money. They work great on the Stinger combined with a decent low profile jack.
 

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Take a look at Jackpoint Jackstands, pinch weld adapter and jackstand in one. (can't post links yet or I would).

They are not a cheap solution but I've used them on a few different cars and I think they're worth the money. They work great on the Stinger combined with a decent low profile jack.

Dang, I thought my Esco stands were expensive at like $75 each + 2x$20 aluminum puck adapters. JJ are $200 each ($390 for a pair)?? Wow..
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I use that harbor freight cross beam adapter to jack up each side of the car then place stands at the factory jack points. Repeat on the other side.

 
I use that harbor freight cross beam adapter to jack up each side of the car then place stands at the factory jack points. Repeat on the other side.

How much clearance do you have to get it under the car? Also....I'm concerned with damaging the side skirt. Any issues?
 
Understand folks believe it is dangerous to get under a car supported on floor jacks. Yes, hydraulics can fail. However, in my 35yrs of being a shadetree and having owned many floor jacks, I've yet to see one fail catastrophically. One of the 2-ton HF floor jacks did finally develop a very slow leak, after working in my garage for some 20yrs. So I replaced it with a brand new HF 3-ton low profile HD floor jack.

These days, I have no problem getting under my car supported by two identical 3-ton floor jacks. I do place a 6-ton floor jack right next to each of the floor jacks. The telescoping supports are extended right up to the car's under body but not bearing any weight. They are just there to catch the car, in case the floor jacks fail. Obviously, the jack stands are not placed under where the designated jack points are, but realistically, in the unlikely event they are ever called into service, I could care less what that does to the car's under body, as long as they keep it from coming down on me.

To me, doing it this way is more efficient and arguable safer than trying to jack the car with a single floor jack on some center point, in order to place two jack stands on the pinch welds, then having to repeat the process to put the car back down.
 
How much clearance do you have to get it under the car? Also....I'm concerned with damaging the side skirt. Any issues?
Good question.

I actually end up putting a hockey puck on each pad to allow clearance for the side skirts, otherwise it does appear to deform them slightly when raising.

That said, I've now raised the car this way close to a dozen times without any issues. It is a pain checking and verifying everything is centered properly. I'm sure there's other areas underneath that would likely support the weight of the vehicle but I prefer jackstands at the factory locations.

If I need to raise the car higher up, I'll do it in stages so one side isn't lifted excessively while other still on the ground.

Re Using floor jacks only... Don't become a statistic...
 
Good question.

I actually end up putting a hockey puck on each pad to allow clearance for the side skirts, otherwise it does appear to deform them slightly when raising.

That said, I've now raised the car this way close to a dozen times without any issues. It is a pain checking and verifying everything is centered properly. I'm sure there's other areas underneath that would likely support the weight of the vehicle but I prefer jackstands at the factory locations.

If I need to raise the car higher up, I'll do it in stages so one side isn't lifted excessively while other still on the ground.

Re Using floor jacks only... Don't become a statistic...
Agreed, but I have to add to ease my conscience for anyone reading, do not double-puck!
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I use a block of 2x4, placed cross-grained to the pinch weld.
 
Kia Stinger
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