Anyone find good center jack points?

[boosted1g]

I have seen the dozen or so threads about the pinch weld jack points. I am interested if anyone has found good center jack points to lifting the entire front or entire rear instead of having to do each individual wheel.
Going to be doing a sway bar install hopefully tomorrow

 

[narsnail]

I think you can do the front on ramps without removing the wheels.

 

[MerlintheMad]

You are a brave person. And I've not seen anyone, ever, raise a Stinger from the middle of the front or back.

 

[boosted1g]

You are a brave person. And I've not seen anyone, ever, raise a Stinger from the middle of the front or back.

Not to keep that way, I would lower it onto stands.

Most cars you can put the jack on cross-member or subframe

 

[westcoastGT]

We did C&CBilly 's GT on ramps

 

[MerlintheMad]

In the front, you'd have to remove the forwardmost under panel to look for the subframe. The rear only has the bumper, but that's inside the diffuser; and then the battery box: clearly the box is out of the question; there is no subframe that I can see.

Not to keep that way, I would lower it onto stands.

Most cars you can put the jack on cross-member or subframe

 

[oddball]

Yes. Get under there and look around, decide for yourself. I need every last inch of my long reach jack to get there, though.

 

[M'Kehyah]

For the front:
Under the fairing panels you see that the center front silver bolt holding the forward and aft underbody panels is a cross member. I lift (without removing panels) centering the jack on that bolt. Works well. No damage to my panels or bolt.

For the rear:
I put rear on ramps and remove the silver aluminum bar connecting the exhaust pipes. (i have since left it off and have no issues)
Then there is room to get the jack on the rear diff.

(These are my SUGGESTIONS so proceed on your car with care!)

 

[DoctorStiches]

In the tuner world the front subframe and rear diff are used as jack points for cars that are half the stingers weight

 

[boosted1g]

In the tuner world the front subframe and rear diff are used as jack points for cars that are half the stingers weight

That's what I would use on previous cars, but yeah the extra weight and length concerned me, hence why I asked

My first project cars where DSMs as well, a 90 GST and then a 92 Laser AWD

 

[boosted1g]

Double post, please delete admins.

 

[boosted1g]

Yes. Get under there and look around, decide for yourself. I need every last inch of my long reach jack to get there, though.

I work in I.T. so I certainly understand the frustration from people constantly asking R.T.F.M (read the f*****g manual) or simple-google-search kind of questions.
However, in this case I was not being lazy, I was getting others feedback to see if they had an even better idea then what I would come up with from looking under the car. Not to mention, if anyone damaged a part using the jack-point that I would choose after "looking around and deciding for myself".

So yeah, "figure it out for your yourself" answers is defeating the point of having a platform-specific forum of knowledgeable enthusiasts!

 

[oddball]

Problem is you can damage stuff. Some of the crossmembers are pretty weak, some are strong.
Going by the book, the only lift points are the pinch welds.
So for something like this, it's really up to you. I personally do center lift, but that's my own risk/time judgement.
I was clearly giving you a hint to go off of, from which you can make your own call.

a different example - is the diff housing strong enough to use as a lift point? no one really knows. I haven't broken mine yet, though. Will you break yours? No idea. Gotta make your own call there.

 

[EClapp3]

Instead of the front then the back, I just do each side at a time. Jack in the middle of the car on the pinch weld with a hockey puck on the jack, insert stands, go to the other side and repeat.

 

[redspeed]

Instead of the front then the back, I just do each side at a time. Jack in the middle of the car on the pinch weld with a hockey puck on the jack, insert stands, go to the other side and repeat.

You can't insert the stand if you're already using the pinch weld location with the jack. Where exactly are you putting the stands? I was looking around and couldn't find a suitable location other than the pinch weld.

 

[EClapp3]

You can't insert the stand if you're already using the pinch weld location with the jack. Where exactly are you putting the stands? I was looking around and couldn't find a suitable location other than the pinch weld.

The pinch weld runs the whole length of the body, pick somewhere that isnt the cutout and jack. The hockey puck or whatever hard rubber you use will keep from pushing on the skirt too much.

 

[redspeed]

The pinch weld runs the whole length of the body, pick somewhere that isnt the cutout and jack. The hockey puck or whatever hard rubber you use will keep from pushing on the skirt too much.

Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks for the idea. I worked on my cars for years but the Stinger definitely baffles me with the lack of suitable jack points, well at least obvious ones like in my other cars.

 

[DoctorStiches]

...

 

[Aarvix]

On trucks I use the pumpkin (diff) without a second thought. But it's aluminum on the stinger and I'm too chicken to use it.

 

[EClapp3]

Ah, that makes more sense. Thanks for the idea. I worked on my cars for years but the Stinger definitely baffles me with the lack of suitable jack points, well at least obvious ones like in my other cars.

The jack points are here, the fear to mess up the skirts messes with people. They are very flexible underneath and just be smart about it and don't push them too far.

On trucks I use the pumpkin (diff) without a second thought. But it's aluminum on the stinger and I'm too chicken to use it.

I use the diff on my GTO, Its aluminum as well and the car weighs about the same. Haven't had a need to use it on the stinger yet though.