3.3TT Another Front Brake/Rotor Problem... Lost For Words

[D.J.]

So I actually put my pads on yesterday and after bedding them. It was a good drive the first time. After the second, vibrating started to mildly come back. I’m going to try it out again today but I’m sure that I’ll just need to replace the rotors too. This is 4k miles after having them resurfaced. The bottom spot is from spraying it with brake cleaner but the top left (along with a few smaller ones not noticeable in the pic) look like heat spots. So back to the shudders & vibrations.
But the old pads were dirty like someone drove through a dirt road.

Which pads?
Just front?

 

[Rodtheviking]

when I try to look at buying these all the sites say they are for the Genesis G70. I know they are basically the same car as the Stinger but are they definitely the correct pads?

What "all" sites? Which pads?

 

[LUFC1975]

What "all" sites? Which pads?

these parts (like I showed in my original reply). If you search for these , the sites that come up to but from show they are for G70. should I go with these pads or some other pads.

 

[skylixz]

Which pads?
Just front?

pads were replaced all around

 

[Rodtheviking]

these parts (like I showed in my original reply). If you search for these , the sites that come up to but from show they are for G70. should I go with these pads or some other pads.

Other pads, those will fit but you can find better pads for a lot less.

KNSbrakes.com

 

[skylixz]

So I actually put my pads on yesterday and after bedding them. It was a good drive the first time. After the second, vibrating started to mildly come back. I’m going to try it out again today but I’m sure that I’ll just need to replace the rotors too. This is 4k miles after having them resurfaced. The bottom spot is from spraying it with brake cleaner but the top left (along with a few smaller ones not noticeable in the pic) look like heat spots. So back to the shudders & vibrations.
But the old pads were dirty like someone drove through a dirt road.

So just giving an update. I can say after this past week, braking is better than before. Although it still shudders, it’s tolerable. It mainly does it from about 55+ mph and it’s not as bad as before. I can make do with this til I get a new rotor/pad set. So thank y’all for the advice & recommendations.

 

[ddavis1982]

Have them warranty the rotors to get new ones. Then buy some aftermarket brake pads and put them in. Good to go. Had the same issue with my 2019 at 5k miles

Did that, didn't work for me. Even got the ceramics to reduce brake dust. Still came back at 2k miles. My speculation is the rotors themselves don't shed the dust, leading to the problem. The only constant ai have seen in countless forums is slotted and drilled rotors, may not be because of warping, just might be because they shed the dust better.

I have owned many cars I have noticed the stinger doesn't get as much venting and the brakes get hooot.

 

[ddavis1982]

Have them warranty the rotors to get new ones. Then buy some aftermarket brake pads and put them in. Good to go. Had the same issue with my 2019 at 5k miles

Did that, didn't work for me. Even got the ceramics to reduce brake dust. Still came back at 2k miles. My speculation is the rotors themselves don't shed the dust, leading to the problem. The only constant ai have seen in countless forums is slotted and drilled rotors, may not be because of warping, just might be because they shed the dust better.

I have owned many cars I have noticed the stinger doesn't get as much venting and the brakes get hooot.

 

[G-873551]

i recently replaced all 4 rotors and disc pads on my GT2AWD and now they are perfect.
Shuddering be gone1

 

[Volfy]

Did that, didn't work for me. Even got the ceramics to reduce brake dust. Still came back at 2k miles. My speculation is the rotors themselves don't shed the dust, leading to the problem. The only constant ai have seen in countless forums is slotted and drilled rotors, may not be because of warping, just might be because they shed the dust better.

I have owned many cars I have noticed the stinger doesn't get as much venting and the brakes get hooot.

For the Nth time, it ain't the rotors. I'm running solid (non drilled non slotted) rotors on all 3 of my Stingers/G70s, 2 of them are OEM rotors. All 3 have been to track and put thru their paces. None have any problems.

Choice of pads are the problem. Ceramic pads might be low dust, but they aren't good for high temp, in general. That's why I don't run Ceramic pads.

You are correct that some wheels do flow air better than others. Luxury sedans like G80/90 have OEM wheels that are very "closed off", which reduces road noise at hwy speeds. That also restriction cross air flow, but cars like that aren't really built for track duty anyway, so the trade off is justified. Stinger is really meant as a GT car, so you could argue either way. I personally prefer more open spokes for better cross flow and brake cooling.

However, heat itself isn't the primary reason for excessive brake pad material deposits on rotors. That is usually caused by pad compounds that are designed to be very low dust. Ceramics are notorious for this.

Ironically, high dust pads like the EBC Bluestuff and Yellowstuff I'm running don't have rotor deposit issues. But I have to clean my wheels just about every week. Trade offs... trade offs.

 

[ddavis1982]

For the Nth time, it ain't the rotors. I'm running solid (non drilled non slotted) rotors on all 3 of my Stingers/G70s, 2 of them are OEM rotors. All 3 have been to track and put thru their paces. None have any problems.

Choice of pads are the problem. Ceramic pads might be low dust, but they aren't good for high temp, in general. That's why I don't run Ceramic pads.
View attachment 87049
You are correct that some wheels do flow air better than others. Luxury sedans like G80/90 have OEM wheels that are very "closed off", which reduces road noise at hwy speeds. That also restriction cross air flow, but cars like that aren't really built for track duty anyway, so the trade off is justified. Stinger is really meant as a GT car, so you could argue either way. I personally prefer more open spokes for better cross flow and brake cooling.

However, heat itself isn't the primary reason for excessive brake pad material deposits on rotors. That is usually caused by pad compounds that are designed to be very low dust. Ceramics are notorious for this.

Ironically, high dust pads like the EBC Bluestuff and Yellowstuff I'm running don't have rotor deposit issues. But I have to clean my wheels just about every week. Trade offs... trade offs.

Unfortunately in this debate the only constant is when these rotors go away the problem gets fixed, weather it is the problem or not.

I'm not going to get another recommended (I say another because the ceramics I have on now was the "reccomended" one on another forum)

It could also be based on location. I have noticed that I have more issues in California summers, again heat. For me the rotors will be the fix, if yours worked that's great. But basically the entire breaking situation on the Stinger was not well thought out, although I love the rest of the car. Too bad this has to be done at the buyers level when it is very apparent there are the numbers for a full recall.

The last time I even spoke with kia their own manager stated any repair would be a bandaid until the rotors were replaced, and he recommended another shop that had the parts, so I can't even say it's a money grab for Kia, because there outsourcing a fix lol.

 

[Volfy]

Unfortunately in this debate the only constant is when these rotors go away the problem gets fixed, weather it is the problem or not.

I'm not going to get another recommended (I say another because the ceramics I have on now was the "reccomended" one on another forum)

It could also be based on location. I have noticed that I have more issues in California summers, again heat. For me the rotors will be the fix, if yours worked that's great. But basically the entire breaking situation on the Stinger was not well thought out, although I love the rest of the car. Too bad this has to be done at the buyers level when it is very apparent there are the numbers for a full recall.

The last time I even spoke with kia their own manager stated any repair would be a bandaid until the rotors were replaced, and he recommended another shop that had the parts, so I can't even say it's a money grab for Kia, because there outsourcing a fix lol.

If you actually trust what your Kia service guy tells you, then well... that's that.

When the TPMS sensor went out on my '19 Stinger, I asked my local dealer service to look at it. The advisor told me that they will have to reprogram the car and I'd have to pay for it. I told him I have bought no less than 5 sets of OEM Mobis TPMS sensors for my aftermarket wheels and I have been swapping them regularly, without reprogramming anything, and the TPMS automatically recognizes the new set every single time... all except this set of old OEM wheels that came with the '19 Stinger. He scoffed that I was wrong, that is not the way it works, and refused to warranty my TPMS sensors even though my car still had the factory warranty.

When asked about the infamous brake shudder issue, the same dealer also told me they have been resurfacing rotors and some eventually changing the rotors. I asked why keep doing the same fix if it doesn't fix the issue. They again scoffed that is what they do.

To say that I have next to no faith in my Kia dealer telling me the truth would be a massive understatement.

I've yet to come across any report of some G70/Stinger owner saying they changed ONLY the rotors and that fixed the problem never to reoccur. Those that advocate rotor change always swap out pads as well.

Exercise some basic deductive reasoning. It's not hard.

 

[Snicklefritz]

Too bad this has to be done at the buyers level when it is very apparent there are the numbers for a full recall.

Not from where I sit. What numbers would those be? The vast majority of Stingers do not get into trouble with the OEM brakes. That is apparent by the lack of complaints, not the number of complaints.

 

[Sting18]

** 2020 Stinger GT RWD **

Hey everyone!

I know there have been many posts about the issue with the brakes shaking the car while slowing down and the whole "bad pad vs bad rotor" debates going on. I have read the sticky and have read many of the threads already written on here.

I did try to "bed" my pads as suggested on the forums already but the issue came back.

Here is my problem.

Car has 3040 miles on it. I bring it in to the dealership since the entire car is shuddering and shaking under braking. They confirm the problem and REPLACE the front brake pads AND resurface the rotors. Fast forward about a week and less than 100 miles later and I noticed the same issue has returned; but only happened maybe once or twice on the drive then went away. But the car is not braking properly as it should, just like when the issue was showing itself before. My vehicle is violently shaking when slowing down, especially at higher speeds, and the vibrating feeling is coming from the brakes.

I have owned and worked with different performance vehicles before and I know this is not normal. Should I contact the same Kia dealership and have them take another look or contact Kia of North America about this? I just want my car fixed. I do not know anymore if the issues are the pads or rotors but for a car with less than 3150 miles on it this is crazy. We haven't even owned the car for six months yet. This is really scaring us if I'm being completely honest.

I am currently located in Yonkers 10704. Please let me know what should be done. I am open to all suggestions. I am not happy at all that this issue has returned after less than 100 miles and not even a week has passed yet. Very alarming for a vehicle that cost this much in my opinion... and we have owned Lexus, BMW, and Mercedes in the past.

Thank you all!

have 2018 GT and i live in San Antonio. . After 10k miles I decided driving it hard. It's when I experienced the pulsating brakes. First went to Kia thinking the rotors are warped. They're fine. So I put on steel braided lines. Not really any difference. I bought dimpled and slotted rotors just for the front . A little better feel but the back should of been done too but I didn't have the money at the time. I heard about these forums and ppl were saying change the pads. I did that but didn't help much. I was about to get the rear rotors replaced and Brake Performance was offering a 60% discount on rotors. So I bought the drilled and slotted for about $400. I just installed them last week. Broke them in correctly. Today I was running 100 and braking hard to 30 several times and absolutely no more pulsating!!! Got them so hot i could smell the pads. So the dimple and slot rotors might have resulted the same but if your trying to get rid of the pulsating do the brake lines and all 4 rotors and maybe the bevel cut pads will help too. I got my lines from Khartunerz.

 

[D.J.]

if your trying to get rid of the pulsating do the brake lines and all 4 rotors and maybe the bevel cut pads will help too. I got my lines from Khartunerz.

Brake pads are the ROOT CAUSE
Rotors are the SYMPTOM
Brake lines do not contribute to those scenario.

Change pads and rotors to Non Brembo OEM pads and any quality rotor, and problem resolved.

 

[ElChanclo]

When the TPMS sensor went out on my '19 Stinger, I asked my local dealer service to look at it. [...] I told him I have bought no less than 5 sets of OEM Mobis TPMS sensors for my aftermarket wheels and I have been swapping them regularly, without reprogramming anything, and the TPMS automatically recognizes the new set every single time... all except this set of old OEM wheels that came with the '19 Stinger.

Do you have the model# for the Mobis TPMS?

And do you think the original TPMS was just a dead battery? How long did it last?

 

[Volfy]

Do you have the model# for the Mobis TPMS?

And do you think the original TPMS was just a dead battery? How long did it last?

You can see the Kia P/N here: Amazon.com

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's just the battery. Unfortunately, Kia/Genesis doesn't tell you which TPMS sensor is bad, as I doubt all 4 sensor on my '19 all went bad at the same time. To be fair, the car probably left the factory more than 5yrs ago by now, so the probability of some going bad isn't all that unlikely. Other mfrs, like GM, shows on the dash exactly which corner is not communicating. Right now, I've got 1 of the original TPMS sensors on my '18 GMC Savana not reading. As antique looking as the old analog dash is on that dinosaur van, it actually tells me that it is the right rear that is bad.

Regardless, even though the genuine Mobis TPMS sensors are a little pricier compared to, say, generic GM ones I bought. At around $25/sensor, I'm not gonna complain too much. Screw the dealer service dept. I'd much rather not deal with them, if at all possible.

 

[Thomby]

I bought dimpled and slotted rotors just for the front . A little better feel but the back should of been done too but I didn't have the money at the time. I heard about these forums and ppl were saying change the pads. I did that but didn't help much.

If you have deposits from stock pads on stock rotors, replacing or turning the stock rotors will remove those deposits in the immediate (so will a few rounds of aggressive braking, in my experience). But if you have stock pads you're likely to re-deposit on the stock rotors (I'd imagine the same for aftermarket rotors).

If you have deposits and change pads, you shouldn't create new deposits but you may still feel what's left on the rotors, until you clear them off via aggressive braking, turning, or rotor replacement. So to me the most cost-effective approach should be:
- Aggressive braking with stock pads to clear off as much as possible
- Swap stock pads to aftermarkets that we know don't create deposits
- Aggressive braking with new pads to bed the new pads and clean up any remaining deposits

If the deposits are bad enough that isn't enough, only then would I escalate to turning the rotors or replacing them.

Unfortunately, Kia/Genesis doesn't tell you which TPMS sensor is bad, as I doubt all 4 sensor on my '19 all went bad at the same time.

So you can't flip to the tire pressure display screen and see which is missing, one bad TPMS makes you lose all four? Or does your Stinger not have the real-time psi for each corner?

 

[Snicklefritz]

So you can't flip to the tire pressure display screen and see which is missing, one bad TPMS makes you lose all four? Or does your Stinger not have the real-time psi for each corner?

Does your TPMS keep working when one of the sensors goes dead? Mine does not. It's stupid. Why does KIA flatline the entire system when a sensor quits sending? You can tell which sensor is bad by using a scan tool at the wheel and tire shop.

 

[Thomby]

Does your TPMS keep working when one of the sensors goes dead? Mine does not. It's stupid. Why does KIA flatline the entire system when a sensor quits sending? You can tell which sensor is bad by using a scan tool at the wheel and tire shop.

I'm not sure, haven't had one die yet, that's why I was asking. Makes much more sense to let the offender drop off vs. nuking all four.