2.0T 2.0 Aftermarket Downpipe?

Trying to put the new racing cat on and these studs suck. Any help to how you get these off? They flare at the end and you can't get another bolt on. I used a nut splitter and got one off.20200316_015941.webp
 
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Trying to put the new racing cat on and these studs suck. Any help to how you get these off? They flare at the end and you can't get another bolt on. I used a nut splitter and got one off.View attachment 39405


Have you been able to remove the old downpipe? Or are the old studs also preventing that?

On the 3.3 the studs are just threaded into the turbo flange and they generally come off relatively easy. I assumed that they'd be the same on the 2.0


Do you think you could remove the entire turbo manifold? If so, you could access those studs a lot easier.
 
Have you been able to remove the old downpipe? Or are the old studs also preventing that?

On the 3.3 the studs are just threaded into the turbo flange and they generally come off relatively easy. I assumed that they'd be the same on the 2.0


Do you think you could remove the entire turbo manifold? If so, you could access those studs a lot easier.

I think to smaller motor moves more because it also has a flex pipe and I think the 3.3 doesn't. This might be why that little flange is at the end of the stud for the bolt not to come off. I just cut the flange off because I was tired of dealing with it.20200316_015941.webp
 
I think to smaller motor moves more because it also has a flex pipe and I think the 3.3 doesn't. This might be why that little flange is at the end of the stud for the bolt not to come off. I just cut the flange off because I was tired of dealing with it.View attachment 39506

Were you able to install mostly everything from the engine bay without getting under the car? It looks like there's entry of room.
 
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Can you provide the socket sizes please? I'll be doing this job in a few weeks.
 
It looks like the larger bolts on the lower part of the downpipe are accessible from beneath the car and everything else can be done from the engine bay...that's what I'm hoping.
 
It looks like the larger bolts on the lower part of the downpipe are accessible from beneath the car and everything else can be done from the engine bay...that's what I'm hoping.
Yea, its pretty easy to get to. You have 2 bolts (15mm or 17 mm) in the middle near the lower O2 sensor. Its a bracket. You dont need an 02 socket for the bottom but the top on I used it because I didnt know the metal flange was apart of the O2 sensor. I really want to warn you about the top studs. Mine have never came out and the lip in the picture will not allow your nut to come off. I cut the lip off the stud to and put new nuts on them. Of course I didnt realize all of that until I stripped the stud. I just re-threaded the stud and put a nut on because I can't get that stud out. Ive put heat to it and have got no where. If you get the downpipe, run your bolts thru it to make your life easier. The bracket in the middle has a weld but its not strong. Ive broke the weld on it because the bracket flexed. So stabilize it when you drill on that are. The part is good but the process can be a nightmare.
 
I appreciate the response! I've dealt with a kia Soul turbo downpipe before and that was a nightmare due to lack of space to access a lot of components. I had a problem with the studs on that downpipe so this sounds eerily similar unfortunately. I couldn't get all the nuts off and a few studs came all the way out.
 
Would none of the studs turn once you loosened the nut as far as it would go? I could loosen the nut enough and make sure the stud doesn't move and cut the stud off right at the threads possibly...that might work. I would have to file the bolt to be able to thread a bolt back on obviously.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Would none of the studs turn once you loosened the nut as far as it would go? I could loosen the nut enough and make sure the stud doesn't move and cut the stud off right at the threads possibly...that might work. I would have to file the bolt to be able to thread a bolt back on obviously.
Mine didnt. But in the beginning, i didnt know what monster I was dealing with so I was confused to why the nuts didnt come off and I messed up the nuts thread also. So I could not even tighten it back either. If I had to do it all over again, I would of cut the small flare from the stud only and just took off the nut. There would be no problems from there.
 
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Mine didnt. But in the beginning, i didnt know what monster I was dealing with so I was confused to why the nuts didnt come off and I messed up the nuts thread also. So I could not even tighten it back either. If I had to do it all over again, I would of cut the small flare from the stud only and just took off the nut. There would be no problems from there.
 
I'll probably just do that honestly so I won't have to deal with the flange that you're talking about on the stud.
 
I'll probably just do that honestly so I won't have to deal with the flange that you're talking about on the stud.[/QUOT

Best of luck. If you have problems or questions hit me up. I'll try and response quickly
 
Shark Racing is the only website I could find that sold a downpipe for the Stinger 2.0, which sucks. It will be a few weeks before I receive my downpipe.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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