One Long Day

Do you buff this out by hand or would a random orbital work as well?

I've been considering CQuartz also but this recommend of 22ple has me doing some more research.

I've already clear bra'd the entire front end...does 22ple "attach" to the PPF or should I just leave those sections alone? I see that ceramic pro has a specific version for PPF.
 
Do you buff this out by hand or would a random orbital work as well?

I've been considering CQuartz also but this recommend of 22ple has me doing some more research.

I've already clear bra'd the entire front end...does 22ple "attach" to the PPF or should I just leave those sections alone? I see that ceramic pro has a specific version for PPF.
It is easy enough to buff off by hand, you could use a random orbital but think of the control of doing it by hand would be better. I've also not seen anyone use orbital to buff off a coating before.

I've tried cquartz consumer stuff and it is not the easiest or best stuff out there. I've read it has had a nasty water spotting issue.

on detailimage site where they sell 22ple i've read a few of their blogs where they've done major projects to restore a car. They obviously wash, polish, then apply a clear bra to the car, and then apply 22ple on top of it. So although no specifically stated, if they are doing that on high end cars and no doubt charging a great deal for the job... it must work.

I don't know if i'd got with HPC on a clear bra. I have no evidence it wouldn't work, just from my experience with it, the odd and amazing flashing of that coating. It turns opaque and crystallizes a hardshell which you buff off. All others i've used you're basically buffing off a slick or drying up liquid. I know gyeon synchro is getting rave reviews right now, since I don't think you would really care about the "hardness" of the coating since you have the clear bra on the car, the gyeon skin should give it amazing slickness. That an gtechnique exov3 would be the other that would provide that overall slickness.
 
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It is easy enough to buff off by hand, you could use a random orbital but think of the control of doing it by hand would be better. I've also not seen anyone use orbital to buff off a coating before.

I've tried cquartz consumer stuff and it is not the easiest or best stuff out there. I've read it has had a nasty water spotting issue.

on detailimage site where they sell 22ple i've read a few of their blogs where they've done major projects to restore a car. They obviously wash, polish, then apply a clear bra to the car, and then apply 22ple on top of it. So although no specifically stated, if they are doing that on high end cars and no doubt charging a great deal for the job... it must work.

I don't know if i'd got with HPC on a clear bra. I have no evidence it wouldn't work, just from my experience with it, the odd and amazing flashing of that coating. It turns opaque and crystallizes a hardshell which you buff off. All others i've used you're basically buffing off a slick or drying up liquid. I know gyeon synchro is getting rave reviews right now, since I don't think you would really care about the "hardness" of the coating since you have the clear bra on the car, the gyeon skin should give it amazing slickness. That an gtechnique exov3 would be the other that would provide that overall slickness.
Thanks...ive looked at gtech in the past too. I think i may give the 22ple a try on the sections of the car that dont have PPF. I can live with waxing the front end over the PPF in order to make certain not to mess that up. The shop that installed the PPF clearly stated waxing it was fine...not certain on this other stuff and if i ask first then mess it up, there goes my 10 year PPF warranty!
 
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Thanks...ive looked at gtech in the past too. I think i may give the 22ple a try on the sections of the car that dont have PPF. I can live with waxing the front end over the PPF in order to make certain not to mess that up. The shop that installed the PPF clearly stated waxing it was fine...not certain on this other stuff and if i ask first then mess it up, there goes my 10 year PPF warranty!
oh i thought you had the entire car covered. Hell yeah go with coating everywhere else. HPC is great, gives a hard candy gloss type look, can absolutely tell it is a hard coating just by the way it flashes, and because it flashes with this visible opaque look it makes it pretty easy to tell when you are buffing it off which areas you've missed.
 
oh i thought you had the entire car covered. Hell yeah go with coating everywhere else. HPC is great, gives a hard candy gloss type look, can absolutely tell it is a hard coating just by the way it flashes, and because it flashes with this visible opaque look it makes it pretty easy to tell when you are buffing it off which areas you've missed.
Excellent. yeah, i did full front end in PPF...hood, bumper, fenders, mirrors. The A pillars are the only "paint" facing front that did not get quoted. The PPF shines up pretty damn good so i think i will try the "hard coat" on the rest. My only concern would be a noticeable difference in shine between the coat and the PPF.

That being said, can the hard coating be removed...for lack of a better term?

And as a side note, the hazing should be nice...its very hard to see even quick detail sprayed onto the yellow paint. That would make a non hazed one very difficult to see. The yellow just reflects very well.
 
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Excellent. yeah, i did full front end in PPF...hood, bumper, fenders, mirrors. The A pillars are the only "paint" facing front that did not get quoted. The PPF shines up pretty damn good so i think i will try the "hard coat" on the rest. My only concern would be a noticeable difference in shine between the coat and the PPF.

That being said, can the hard coating be removed...for lack of a better term?
It can, but it would take some work. You'd have to polish it off. I highly doubt you'd need to though.

That being said I think you are fine. My friend has a very similar setup on his Lexus IS which i helped him coat. We didn't apply the coating to the PPF (but he later did on his own) and it was hard to tell the difference between the two areas. Yes you could if you put your face up to it, with the right lighting etc, but in the real world it wouldn't be that noticeable a difference.
 
how would you apply this around the badges? like the stinger badge in the back or the GT badge?

Do you remove and stick with new adhesive or just leave it?
Way way too much work. I'm crazy but not that crazy. I just did the areas around the badges. I don't think you really need to protect much underneath them. If you really wanted to get in between the lettering you may be able to use a q tip or something similar.
 
@scharn I followed your advice/lead yesterday and applied 2 coats of Kamikaze Miyabi except on the hood - I have Xpel ppf on the front end for protection and used 2 coats of Kamikaze Film coat. The film coat wasn't as easy as the Miyabi and left some "streaks" visible if you look closely enough. It could have been the weather (85-88) causing the film coat to dry too quickly. Regardless, I then followed up the coatings with the Infinity Wax. ISM seemed too difficult and I wanted the advantage of additional protection. I may intend to maintain the car with Kamikaze Overcoat, but "intentions" tend to get ignored when the winter turns nasty in the winter.

Sorry for the garage pictures but thunderstorms are in the forecast.
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@scharn I followed your advice/lead yesterday and applied 2 coats of Kamikaze Miyabi except on the hood - I have Xpel ppf on the front end for protection and used 2 coats of Kamikaze Film coat. The film coat wasn't as easy as the Miyabi and left some "streaks" visible if you look closely enough. It could have been the weather (85-88) causing the film coat to dry too quickly. Regardless, I then followed up the coatings with the Infinity Wax. ISM seemed too difficult and I wanted the advantage of additional protection. I may intend to maintain the car with Kamikaze Overcoat, but "intentions" tend to get ignored when the winter turns nasty in the winter.

Sorry for the garage pictures but thunderstorms are in the forecast.
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Wow it came out amazing, the red really has a lot of depth to it. Damn i've always wanted to try infinity wax.

It was about 65 degrees when I put the coatings on, so might have been weather.

I'm going to polish angel cosmic spritz for my topper. Getting rave reviews and given the amount you can get (it still is expensive) and the number of people/cars I deal with that have coatings on, it just made sense. Overcoat though is basically the best stuff in the biz.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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