In order to remove wheels for powder coating I have to put my car up on jackstands, I have a little bit of anxiety as to where and how to position my traditional jackstands properly. Can anyone advise or show exactly where and how they position the stand on the cutout locations on the front and back. Any visual reference to how to position the head of the stand on the frame would be fantastic
3.3TT Jack stand position info
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nhcowboy28
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There are notches in the pinch welds where to place the jack stands.
jack up the car on the Pinch welds between the notch/wheel.
It’s fine. Done it a dozen times this way.
eflyguy
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The jack points are pretty obvious, marked with notches as stated (it's in the manual) like every other vehicle, and there is a cutout in the side skirt at that location.
It is, however, not possible to use a floor jack at this point and transfer to a stand, as there isn't enough room to get both in there. You can lift on the seam further away, but you have to be very careful not to damage the skirt. A better solution is to jack it at that point so that you can get another jack under a wheel, then remove the first jack and gently lower onto a stand. Repeat for each corner.
It is, however, not possible to use a floor jack at this point and transfer to a stand, as there isn't enough room to get both in there. You can lift on the seam further away, but you have to be very careful not to damage the skirt. A better solution is to jack it at that point so that you can get another jack under a wheel, then remove the first jack and gently lower onto a stand. Repeat for each corner.
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celwin
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This is my number one pet peeve with the Stinger. There is no front or rear center jack point that allows to lift the entire front or rear of the car. You have to do what eflyguy suggest to get a jack in there. But that is such a waste of time.
CeramicGT001
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What a relevant thread. I’m getting my wheels powdercoated next week and was going to leave it on 4 jack stands in my garage but Every video I see says to get the front sides onto stands then raise the back of the car from the middle and slide the two rear stands in onto the pinch welds. The stinger has no safe jacking point on the center back of the car to use a jack that I could identify. I don’t want to try to go side to side because of the chance the stands slide or fall....I’m just going to have to leave the car with the coating shop for a week
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Ok, this is always frustrating. It seems on any car I buy when I go to the internet to figure out where to place jack stands or jack the car up that everyone figures you are using a lift or just changing a tire. For some reason the whole "lift the car up to place jack stands" never seems to make sense to people for some reason. Those of us with big floor jacks are just looking for a central reinforced spot we can jack the car up with, and then place the stands underneath.
But reading this gave me an idea for work that doesn't require taking the wheels off or unloading the suspension:
I have two big jacks. Just jack car up both on one side at the same time, place maybe 3 or more 1x8 wood boards under there, lower back down. Repeat for other side. Now car is setting up and you can work on it. Extend floor stands to jack points for added safety.
Jacking the wheel after jacking in the notch so you can take the notch jack out and place a stand makes sense too.
RogueIV
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The rear diff is the usual safe place to jack from on most cars.What a relevant thread. I’m getting my wheels powdercoated next week and was going to leave it on 4 jack stands in my garage but Every video I see says to get the front sides onto stands then raise the back of the car from the middle and slide the two rear stands in onto the pinch welds. The stinger has no safe jacking point on the center back of the car to use a jack that I could identify. I don’t want to try to go side to side because of the chance the stands slide or fall....I’m just going to have to leave the car with the coating shop for a week
SpaceGhost
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Anyone tried this? I'm thinking ramps for the front and then if it works jack on the rear diff and put jack stands in the back
RogueIV
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I've done it on several occassions, works fine.
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I still haven't found a method I'm really happy with.
- If I'm working under the front, I usually pull up on ramps, then put jack stands under the control arms as backup
- For pulling wheels, I've had floor jack + stand close enough to catch the designated spot, but it left both off center and I wasn't happy with it
- So now for just one wheel, I jack it up, lock my floor jack, and put a jack stand right next to it as backup
For the rear I tried to reach the diff once but my low profile HF one wouldn't reach.
Volfy
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I don't used my jack stands anymore. I now have 3 HF low profile floor jacks and a compact "racing" floor jack, so I can lift the car on all four corners, if necessary. If you have your own garage, I highly recommend you get at least one more floor jack. Makes working on your car so much easier. As much as some of you spend $$$ on aftermarket goodies, another $100 should be a drop in the bucket. 
With a piece of 2x4 jammed into the "throat" as backup JIC, a big floor jack is more stable and secure than even the biggest jack stands i have.
With a piece of 2x4 jammed into the "throat" as backup JIC, a big floor jack is more stable and secure than even the biggest jack stands i have.
GT Elite
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A while back on a Corvette forum someone posted that he uses jack point jack stands. They looked really interesting as the stand fits around the floor jack allowing the same lifting point to be used for both the stand and the floor jack. I haven’t used them and they are quite pricy, but a novel solution. (hope the link works)
Www.jackpointjackstands.com
Www.jackpointjackstands.com
I've seen those, and agree they would be a fantastic option if not so expensive. I've also seen a couple variations of bottle jacks built into jack stands, but they're pretty tall and don't separate.
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Volfy
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It would take a lot more weight than any vehicle I could possibly own to crush a stick of 2x4... even the softest lightest cheap white wood 2x4 is wayyy stronger than necessary to hold up the full weight of a 6000+ lbs GMC Savana 3500 I had. Okay, if I ever get my paws on an M1A2 Abrams, then maybe I'll be a bit more careful.
Lots of workplaces I've been to/at routinely load industrial equipment weighing multiple tons on pieces of lumber. I've yet to see one not hold up just fine.Besides, most of the 2x4s I have around the garage are trimmed off pieces left over from my fencing projects. I usually hand-pick those from Lowes or HD racks for the straightest tightest-grain pressure-treated SYP.
I've got several lengths of 2x4s for different raised height. These being used as a back-up to the hydraulic system in the floor jack, I highly doubt I'd ever call on one to save my behind, but it's comforting to know it's there... JIC. I've been pumping floor jacks for more than 40yrs, and I've yet to have one fail on me... ever. Only one started developing a very slow leak after 15-20yrs(?). I probably could've track down a repair kit, but too lazy to try to fix it. Not when a brand spanking new one is a little over $100.
I saw the commercially available JackRod a few years back and thought about welding up one similar, or even just buy one outright. Never got around to it. Good ol' 2x4 works so well, I have little incentive to spend time/$$ on something that likely would not give me any more of a safety buffer.
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