Any 3.3 LSD Differential replacement tips?

[Typeface]

Replacing my diff (RWD) as it snapped the case at the drivers side ( RHD Australia) mount and the BMS diff brace also snapped in half. Not sure what happened, i took of slightly aggresive, nothing to bad but heard this almighty bang so stopped and rolled home as i was just around the corner.

So got a new diff and replacing it over the next few days, just wondering if anyone has done it before and if so got any tips? Or know of any video or instructions anywhere as i cant find anything. I was thinking maybe i could get away with just changing that side of the case

I was just going to weld the BMS brace, i emailed them about just buying the broken section but got no reply.

Thanks for any help.
Regards
Warren

 

[Volfy]

I've done two LSD retrofits on our Stingers with open diffs. Job is pretty straightforward but awfully tedious. Biggest PITN is removing the half shafts. Depending on how long yours has been in the car, the half shafts splines might be stuck in the wheel hub good. Our '19 too some serious persuasion with a sledge hammer, while the '23 came loose much easier. You could also try it with a (bearing) puller. After that, pulling them out of the diff just takes a healthy yank. I don't mean an American with good physique. The half shafts are retained in the diff with a spring circlip. You're gonna pull HARD, so make sure your elevated rear end is well supported. I myself prefer two heavy duty floor jacks, instead of small jack stands.

After that, a third floor jack helps with R&R of the diff. While it isn't all that heavy, and you probably could try to support it manually, working with a floor jack makes it far easier to manage, especially when raising it up into position for re-installing.

You might be able to do it without fully removing the knuckle. I had to do that the first time (red) because I was also replacing the rear brake dust shield after a Brembo retrofit. I found having it out of the way made pulling the 1/2 shafts easier, so on the second (white) one I also dropped the knuckle.

 

[BIG-D]

I've done two LSD retrofits on our Stingers with open diffs. Job is pretty straightforward but awfully tedious. Biggest PITN is removing the half shafts. Depending on how long yours has been in the car, the half shafts splines might be stuck in the wheel hub good. Our '19 too some serious persuasion with a sledge hammer, while the '23 came loose much easier. You could also try it with a (bearing) puller. After that, pulling them out of the diff just takes a healthy yank. I don't mean an American with good physique. The half shafts are retained in the diff with a spring circlip. You're gonna pull HARD, so make sure your elevated rear end is well supported. I myself prefer two heavy duty floor jacks, instead of small jack stands.

After that, a third floor jack helps with R&R of the diff. While it isn't all that heavy, and you probably could try to support it manually, working with a floor jack makes it far easier to manage, especially when raising it up into position for re-installing.

You might be able to do it without fully removing the knuckle. I had to do that the first time (red) because I was also replacing the rear brake dust shield after a Brembo retrofit. I found having it out of the way made pulling the 1/2 shafts easier, so on the second (white) one I also dropped the knuckle.
View attachment 92627
View attachment 92628

This made me happy in the pants

 

[Typeface]

I've done two LSD retrofits on our Stingers with open diffs. Job is pretty straightforward but awfully tedious. Biggest PITN is removing the half shafts. Depending on how long yours has been in the car, the half shafts splines might be stuck in the wheel hub good. Our '19 too some serious persuasion with a sledge hammer, while the '23 came loose much easier. You could also try it with a (bearing) puller. After that, pulling them out of the diff just takes a healthy yank. I don't mean an American with good physique. The half shafts are retained in the diff with a spring circlip. You're gonna pull HARD, so make sure your elevated rear end is well supported. I myself prefer two heavy duty floor jacks, instead of small jack stands.

After that, a third floor jack helps with R&R of the diff. While it isn't all that heavy, and you probably could try to support it manually, working with a floor jack makes it far easier to manage, especially when raising it up into position for re-installing.

You might be able to do it without fully removing the knuckle. I had to do that the first time (red) because I was also replacing the rear brake dust shield after a Brembo retrofit. I found having it out of the way made pulling the 1/2 shafts easier, so on the second (white) one I also dropped the knuckle.
View attachment 92627
View attachment 92628

Hi,
thanks for the detailed information and the pictures, appreciatte it.

I had to replace one axle a few months ago and yeah it was hard to get out until i bought the correct tool, probably slide out this time. I'll give it a go over the next few days, see how i go.

Again thanks a lot for your reply
Regards
Warren

 

[Typeface]

44c (111f) degrees tommorow then over 40 for the next few days!! Postponing diff replacement

 

[Typeface]

Man im struggling to even budge the tailshaft bolts, sprayed them with WD40 overnight and the suckers arent budging. Other than that so far so good.

 

[Typeface]

Im winning straight forward bolt it all back up now.

Thanks Volfy for the information, helped me a lot.

 

[Typeface]

I only had one bolt at the back of the diff and that wasnt very tight, should there be two bolts?, there are 2 holes so i just presume there would be 2 bolts, wondering if one fell out or Kia forgot it i have had it since new and no work done on the diff area.

 

[Ozekia]

There should be 2 bolts and they are a very low tightening torque figure.
@BIG-D also found one of the bolts missing and a cracked housing.

 

[Typeface]

There should be 2 bolts and they are a very low tightening torque figure.
@BIG-D also found one of the bolts missing and a cracked housing.

Thanks for the info, i best buy some new bolts.
If i had noticed it earlier i would of rang Kia as that is probably why it snapped the diff mount, they could of paid for it all.

 

[Volfy]

Glad you got it sorted. Yeah, there have been other reports of missing bolt. Sober reminder this platform does have its limits.

 

[BIG-D]

Dunno if I should have sold my BMS diff mount now?

It either saved me for 28000km's or it caused the issue... I think the earlier, oh well live and learn ?

 

[Typeface]

@BIG-D, I think the BMS diff brace held it together longer as the snapped bolt has no fresh metal so was snapped for a while just waiting for me to give it a squirt

So anyone, are these the correct upgrade bolts? I would hate to pay 97 bucks and they aren't.

ARP bolts

 

[Ozekia]

@BIG-D, I think the BMS diff brace held it together longer as the snapped bolt has no fresh metal so was snapped for a while just waiting for me to give it a squirt

So anyone, are these the correct upgrade bolts? I would hate to pay 97 bucks and they aren't.

ARP bolts

As you know the size, thread and grade, just go to United Fasteners at Wingfield and buy them from there.

 

[Typeface]

Thanks for the info, never heard of them, never came up in my searching sadly but i have purchased them now from elsewear.

 

[Typeface]

That moment when you think "I should take a photo so i know which bolt goes where" and you just go ahead like an idiot