Paint / Clear coat failure ?

5tinger

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Noticed the boot lid or the hatch lid is made from plastic and not metal.
The paint in mine looks very dull/oxidised and has no shine/reflection.

Is this a common issue with these, and most importantly would this be an indication of a clear coat failure?
 

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Almost looks like chemical reaction.
 
The fact that it's that bad and you just noticed it tells me you don't maintain that paint lol in a place like Australia where paint sun damage is so commonyou have to stay on top of protecting the paint.
 
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There are a lot of plastic painted areas. The most common complaint is the drip rails on the roof, they craze and even the paint cracks. How are yours? What about the rest of the plastic, for instance the hatch facia around the license plate? Bumper covers? Taillights? It's just strange that this problem would only be the spoiler.

If your car sits in the sun a lot, you've got to keep the clear coat sealed up with wax or ceramic, and renew it. If you let your car sit in hot sun and don't keep it really clean, then air grime will accumulate and that will play heck with the clear coat.
 
Ironically I'm quite meticulously with vehicle protection. Have always pre washed with snow foam and utilzed twin bucket method to reduce swirls. Which there isn't much of.

Followed by application of sealant (liquid wax and occasionally spray wax) did apply ceramic coating around 2yrs ago.

This car is quite challenging due to the various different materials used on the exterior and trims.

However this haze/oxidation or whatever it may be, is confined to this section only.
 
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Stinger paint is not a problem in Australia. European cars are.... BMW, Audi, Merc because they are manufactured for cold climates. If you are idiot enough to buy these then you deserve the faded paint and yellowed headlights after 5 years.

Don't get carried away with snow foams and goats milk.............

Just buy Armor All Streak-Free Car Wash NOT WAX!

Use a Chamois not a brush or sponge. Save the brush for the wheels. Soap it up in sections with the chamois and rinse it off then use the same washed out chamois to towel it dry.

It will look like it came out of the showroom.

Don't waste your time with waxes and polishes.
 
However this haze/oxidation or whatever it may be, is confined to this section only.
That makes no sense unless the lid/spoiler was repainted for some reason. Your method, if it is at fault, is going to affect the rest of the car.

I am with GetFd, go easy on the foams and such like. My car is six years old, and the only wax I have applied has been to the occasional touchup spot. I've never waxed the entire car or even a whole area. I don't use foam brushes in the touchless car wash, only "soap" and then rinse. I towel off with one of Griot's extra large microfiber and do the "matador" method, toss it on and pull it off, one pass. The reason why I suggested sealing the clear coat after rubbing/polishing it back up to gloss, is to prevent this from happening again. But now it's sounding like your problem is with the paint on just this piece. In the end, it would get repainted if I was struggling with this.
 
Ironically I'm quite meticulously with vehicle protection. Have always pre washed with snow foam and utilzed twin bucket method to reduce swirls. Which there isn't much of.

Followed by application of sealant (liquid wax and occasionally spray wax) did apply ceramic coating around 2yrs ago.

This car is quite challenging due to the various different materials used on the exterior and trims.

However this haze/oxidation or whatever it may be, is confined to this section only.
As a car detailing enthusiast your method is very appropriate, It shouldn't cause any deterioration of the paint like that. I didn't even know that the boot lid is made from plastic.
 
As a car detailing enthusiast your method is very appropriate, It shouldn't cause any deterioration of the paint like that. I didn't even know that the boot lid is made from plastic.
The section above the rear window is metal. The section below the rear window ie the spoiler/rear deck is plastic The rear section around the number plate under the rear lights is also plastic.

Use a fridge magnet it will soon tell you. cheers.
 
I've come to the conclusion either the dealer had repainted this section without any disclosure.

Or that this is a design weakness, being a horizontal plastic panel.
 
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Repainted, then. There is no known "design weakness" of the deck lid as regards paint going to heck before surrounding panels.
I've come to the conclusion either the dealer had repainted this section without any disclosure.

Or that this is a design weakness, being a horizontal plastic panel.
 
Noticed the boot lid or the hatch lid is made from plastic and not metal.
The paint in mine looks very dull/oxidised and has no shine/reflection.

Is this a common issue with these, and most importantly would this be an indication of a clear coat failure?

This is exactly the same issue I’m having and was coming here to inquire about. Did you have any luck correcting?
 
This is exactly the same issue I’m having and was coming here to inquire about. Did you have any luck correcting?
It appears that the single piece, the deck lid, is at fault, which leads to the conclusion that it was repainted at some point. Is your car first owner or are you a subsequent owner? If you determine that the lid was repainted, then paint correction or a respray properly clear coated is the only way to return to OEM spec. If by some unexpected chance you are the first owner and you are still within 36 months of taking ownership, then KIA should respray the lid under warranty.
 
This is exactly the same issue I’m having and was coming here to inquire about. Did you have any luck correcting?
Are you able to post some photos of your issue. Mine is clear coat failure of the boot deck lid, as the gloss is gone and surface feels rough to the touch. Either factory defect or perhaps for whatever reason the dealer repainted that panel without disclosure. This along with the terrible quality of the trim pieces used throughout the exterior that are prone to fade and discolouration is definatly unacceptable for a vehicle of this calibre and price point.
 
It appears that the single piece, the deck lid, is at fault, which leads to the conclusion that it was repainted at some point. Is your car first owner or are you a subsequent owner? If you determine that the lid was repainted, then paint correction or a respray properly clear coated is the only way to return to OEM spec. If by some unexpected chance you are the first owner and you are still within 36 months of taking ownership, then KIA should respray the lid under warranty.
I am the first owner. I got the very first edition released in 2018, so I’m well past 36 months unfortunately. Nothing has ever been repainted. I started noticing it on the trunk a couple years ago, but thought it was water spots. I’ve been very uninformed, but as I’ve been researching I’m confident that my entire car has hard water spots/mineral buildup that seems to have accelerated in the past few months…but the trunk is a different story. I’m of the opinion that it’s definitely made from a different material than the rest of the car and is oxidizing (?) rapidly. I’ve purchased everything under the sun that I’ve read to use, (buffer/polisher, cut compound, polishes, iron remover, water spot remover, etc) but I’m hesitant to do any of it until I’m confident of what exactly the issue is.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Are you able to post some photos of your issue. Mine is clear coat failure of the boot deck lid, as the gloss is gone and surface feels rough to the touch. Either factory defect or perhaps for whatever reason the dealer repainted that panel without disclosure. This along with the terrible quality of the trim pieces used throughout the exterior that are prone to fade and discolouration is definatly unacceptable for a vehicle of this calibre and price point.
Here are some photos of the trunk and hood (which isn’t quite as bad, but I believe it shows hard water spots or mineral deposits). Anyone have suggestions on the best way to correct?
 

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Here are some photos of the trunk and hood (which isn’t quite as bad, but I believe it shows hard water spots or mineral deposits). Anyone have suggestions on the best way to correct?
That looks like clear coat hazing, like the OP. Until it peels away I can't imagine even ceramic coating will help, since that layer of clear coat paint is effectively damaged.

I'm noticing both reported issues are dark colored cars. Are both of you in fairly hot climates (not all of Australia is super hot), with the car exposed to the sun for the better part of the day?
 
Here are some photos of the trunk and hood (which isn’t quite as bad, but I believe it shows hard water spots or mineral deposits). Anyone have suggestions on the best way to correct?
Oof! That's some nasty clear coat corruption. Like stoopid said, likely not fixable. The basecoat, color coat, should still be good. I would look into paint correction by a competent body shop. Once your new clear coat on those upper surfaces is pristine, make every effort to keep it CLEAN. You actually took a picture of bird doodoo. This tells me that you are casual about what sits on your car and for how long. This will kill any clear coat over time, the more crap literally that you leave on it the faster the clear coat gets ruined. The first and core principle of keeping the shine is to wash often. When I see water spots at all, I head to the car wash or do an Optimum No Rinse bath. As for collecting water spots, even a healthy clear coat will show spots if you let hard water hit your car, and doubly so if you leave it for days/weeks. Use soft water. ONR can take the place of soft water, but both is better. Etc.
 
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Oof! That's some nasty clear coat corruption. Like stoopid said, likely not fixable. The undercoat, color coat, should still be good. I would look into paint correction by a competent body shop. Once your new clear coat on those upper surfaces is pristine, make every effort to keep it CLEAN. You actually took a picture of bird doodoo. This tells me that you are casual about what sits on your car and for how long. This will kill any clear coat over time, the more crap literally that you leave on it the faster the clear coat gets ruined. The first and core principle of keeping the shine is to wash often. When I see water spots at all, I head to the car wash or do an Optimum No Rinse bath. As for collecting water spots, even a healthy clear coat will show spots if you let hard water hit your car, and doubly so if you leave it for days/weeks. Use soft water. ONR can take the place of soft water, but both is better. Etc.
Thank you for the response, it’s very insightful! Guilty…until I started researching about this I had never really thought about all of these factors, I would just go to the car wash before I headed to visit my customers and that was it. However, unfortunately that isn’t from a bird, it was actually something deposited from the car wash, and I’m absolutely 100% certain because it’s happened twice. The first time I was already sure because I had just been looking over my car prior to washing then immediately afterwards. The employees could not have cared less, so I canceled my membership and switched to a brand new was which was great and had no issues at all. Now that place is a few years old and the same issue. It can not be cleaned off, I’ve tried many products as well as trying to scrape it off and nothing. It doesn’t feel raised though, totally smooth. I feel very foolish that happened twice, so I’ll be washing at home from now on. Sorry kind of rambled :)
 
That's exactly how mine started. At first the surface turned hazy and felt rough to the touch, gradually worsening.

Interesting that yours is also the same colour and panel in question. I'm starting to think this is a factory paint issue.

Have you contacted Kia regarding this matter?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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