What did you do to your Kia Stinger today?

[LordKOTL]

It looks like your valve drains to the side. Can it be installed to drain downward? I plan to install an access port and drop the oil directly onto a large drain pan/container, instead of using a flexible extension hose.

It could be twisted down. If I remember it looked like it could go straight down. I wanted the valve sitting flush just in case I did something dumb in the future and something tall enough to hit the underbody panel and was strong enough to rip the fumoto valve off.

I didn't need the extension for mine. I believe somewhere on these forums (maybe this thread) I have a photo of it mounted.

(kit is here, white plastic bend is what I'm referring to)
I got a plastic attachment for the nipple that straight 90deg bends down . My last oil change I didn't use the plastic hose, just the 90deg plastic bend. It drained straight into the drain pan.

I like the idea of the hose, though, because If you have a couple of 5qt oil jugs you can drain right into them. You just have to man the actuator so you don't overfill them.

 

[PaFromFL]

It could be twisted down. If I remember it looked like it could go straight down. I wanted the valve sitting flush just in case I did something dumb in the future and something tall enough to hit the underbody panel and was strong enough to rip the fumoto valve off.

I didn't need the extension for mine. I believe somewhere on these forums (maybe this thread) I have a photo of it mounted.

(kit is here, white plastic bend is what I'm referring to)
I got a plastic attachment for the nipple that straight 90deg bends down . My last oil change I didn't use the plastic hose, just the 90deg plastic bend. It drained straight into the drain pan.

I like the idea of the hose, though, because If you have a couple of 5qt oil jugs you can drain right into them. You just have to man the actuator so you don't overfill them.

I like your ideas of adding a right angle plastic fitting and protecting the valve from road hazards. I'll probably keep using my 10 quart oil drain pan because I need it anyway for the messy oil filter change (and really want to avoid overfilling 5 quart jugs). Thanks for the info and pics.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Put the G70 more as a daily status for now, Just bought a 1995 RX7 FD. Should be here in a month or so.

 

[DeltaV]

Put the G70 more as a daily status for now, Just bought a 1995 RX7 FD. Should be here in a month or so.

Mine…well, from 1993 to 2001. Pettit Turn Key Terror. Let me know if you have any questions. Always happy to talk rotaries. Sold my 2005 RX8 GT last year.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Mine…well, from 1993 to 2001. Pettit Turn Key Terror. Let me know if you have any questions. Always happy to talk rotaries. Sold my 2005 RX8 GT last year.

She's a beaut! I don't know much about rotories besides they are glorified 2 stroke doritos, so I'm more than happy to listen to anything you have to say. She will be with me in about a month or so.

 

[DeltaV]

I think the only thing 2-stroke about the rotary is that you get one power pulse per output shaft rotation per “cylinder”. This gives a 13B-REW (your 1.3 liter, twin rotor, twin sequential turbocharged engine), the Renesis (RX-8), 12A (1st and early 2mg gen RX-7s, and 10A (2-rotor Cosmos) 6 power pulses per rotation - thus as smooth as a V12 but with only 3 moving parts.

Otherwise, suck squeeze bang blow just like any 4-stroke engine. The combustion chamber does rotate with each rotor face.

Before the Renesis, the exhaust port was in the periphery which gave good power (and great turbo spooling) but the overlap resulted in poor emissions. The Renesis moved the exhaust port to the side housing (like the intake port) eliminating most of the overlap and extending the rotary’s life through tougher emissions regulation in the 2000s.

Both the FD RX-7 and the RX-8 had chassis based on longer and stronger Miata underpinnings. A very good basis for the improved suspension.

I recommend the RX-7 book by Jack Yamaguchi… (RX-7: The Mazda RX-7: Mazda's Legendary Sports Car, Plus: Racing and Winning - Le Mans and IMSA GTO Championship, 1991: Jack K. Yamaguchi, John Dinkel, Koichi Yazaki: 9784947659019: Amazon.com: Books)

What mods does your new stable addition sport?

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I think the only thing 2-stroke about the rotary is that you get one power pulse per output shaft rotation per “cylinder”. This gives a 13B-REW (your 1.3 liter, twin rotor, twin sequential turbocharged engine), the Renesis (RX-8), 12A (1st and early 2mg gen RX-7s, and 10A (2-rotor Cosmos) 6 power pulses per rotation - thus as smooth as a V12 but with only 3 moving parts.

Otherwise, suck squeeze bang blow just like any 4-stroke engine. The combustion chamber does rotate with each rotor face.

Before the Renesis, the exhaust port was in the periphery which gave good power (and great turbo spooling) but the overlap resulted in poor emissions. The Renesis moved the exhaust port to the side housing (like the intake port) eliminating most of the overlap and extending the rotary’s life through tougher emissions regulation in the 2000s.

Both the FD RX-7 and the RX-8 had chassis based on longer and stronger Miata underpinnings. A very good basis for the improved suspension.

I recommend the RX-7 book by Jack Yamaguchi… (RX-7: The Mazda RX-7: Mazda's Legendary Sports Car, Plus: Racing and Winning - Le Mans and IMSA GTO Championship, 1991: Jack K. Yamaguchi, John Dinkel, Koichi Yazaki: 9784947659019: Amazon.com: Books)

What mods does your new stable addition sport?

I will have to check that book out!

This was the list of stuff done to it that the previous owner and I went over.

 

[DeltaV]

I won’t pretend to fully understand all of these items as I’ve been out of the 13B-REW game for a while and big single turbos were far inferior to those of today as far as lag and low end boost. They greatly simplify the rats nest of vacuum lines under the intake plenum, which makes things much more reliable. I suspect the additional boost (in volume if not in pressure) justifies the huge secondary injectors.

I’ll presume the large street port primarily lengthened the leading end and widened the tail end of the intake ports, leaving the exhaust ports relatively stock (less than 5% increase in port area) other than radiusing and polishing, so idle remains around 1250.

Stock ignition and radiator were good, but they’d be 30 years old, so any improvement would benefit durability…as would the turbo timer.

I know GReddy, of course, but I’m not familiar with that IC. I’d be interested in the AIT vs boost drop, but they probably have it figured out.

Having both the PowerFC and a boost controller seem odd, but things may have changed. Dumping boost back pressure to exhaust is the way to go vs. dumping to atmosphere.

How heavy is the flywheel (not including the counterweight, of course)? Putting in an 8.5 lb one (and a short-throw shifter) was one of the best things I did to enable far more consistent rev-matched downshifts.

350 hp at 12 psi is reasonable (with assumptions on the single turbo). For relevance, my clipped stock sequential Hitachi turbos, with silicone vacuum lines replacing rubber) at an 18/15/18 boost curve netted a very smooth power curve with 379 down/450 crank. Track days were always run 4500 to 9500 rpm anyway so the turbo transition was moot.

More important than any of this is driver training, seat and harness, more driver training, decent brake fluid and pads (Hawk black street and blue track) or 14 inch Wilwood or the like up front with stainless steel brake and clutch lines - preferably with SpeedBleeders, and driver training. HPDE!

Such a capable car when sorted. You’ll have a ton of fun and success.

Congrats!

Oh, and RX7Club.com.

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

I won’t pretend to fully understand all of these items as I’ve been out of the 13B-REW game for a while and big single turbos were far inferior to those of today as far as lag and low end boost. They greatly simplify the rats nest of vacuum lines under the intake plenum, which makes things much more reliable. I suspect the additional boost (in volume if not in pressure) justifies the huge secondary injectors.

I’ll presume the large street port primarily lengthened the leading end and widened the tail end of the intake ports, leaving the exhaust ports relatively stock (less than 5% increase in port area) other than radiusing and polishing, so idle remains around 1250.

Stock ignition and radiator were good, but they’d be 30 years old, so any improvement would benefit durability…as would the turbo timer.

I know GReddy, of course, but I’m not familiar with that IC. I’d be interested in the AIT vs boost drop, but they probably have it figured out.

Having both the PowerFC and a boost controller seem odd, but things may have changed. Dumping boost back pressure to exhaust is the way to go vs. dumping to atmosphere.

How heavy is the flywheel (not including the counterweight, of course)? Putting in an 8.5 lb one (and a short-throw shifter) was one of the best things I did to enable far more consistent rev-matched downshifts.

350 hp at 12 psi is reasonable (with assumptions on the single turbo). For relevance, my clipped stock sequential Hitachi turbos, with silicone vacuum lines replacing rubber) at an 18/15/18 boost curve netted a very smooth power curve with 379 down/450 crank. Track days were always run 4500 to 9500 rpm anyway so the turbo transition was moot.

More important than any of this is driver training, seat and harness, more driver training, decent brake fluid and pads (Hawk black street and blue track) or 14 inch Wilwood or the like up front with stainless steel brake and clutch lines - preferably with SpeedBleeders, and driver training. HPDE!

Such a capable car when sorted. You’ll have a ton of fun and success.

Congrats!

Oh, and RX7Club.com.

Thank you! The old owner and I s pent an hour on the phone getting everything sorted and going over what stuff does, though I am probably going to have to have him go over it with me again. Unfortunately it's probably going to get delivered right when I have to put it away for the year.

 

[DeltaV]

Thank you, @rbf351!

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

Its been like 3ish months or so since I traded my stinger for my G70, yet I was walking by my coworkers C6 this morning and caught myself thinking "wow, ive never noticed but my stinger has bigger brakes than his vette...... wait a second I have a G70 not a stinger....hmm."

 

[Snicklefritz]

wait a second I have a G70 not a stinger....hmm."

doesn't the g70 have the same brembo brakes as the stinger?

 

[G70LEbyAdoom]

doesn't the g70 have the same brembo brakes as the stinger?

It does. The brakes where not really the point though.

 

[Snicklefritz]

It does. The brakes where not really the point though.

I go that, was just making sure that my information on the g70 was accurate. thanks.

 

[ldusseau]

I have the same issue in my car, tried Gorilla Glue with a clamp and it didn't hold.

 

[Snicklefritz]

I have the same issue in my car, tried Gorilla Glue with a clamp and it didn't hold.

tried gorilla and a clamp on what? what is this post in response to?

 

[street heat]

Today installed a black and gray E BADGE I found on ebay. Looks great on my panthera metal stinger. Also put on blacked out side vents and a black GTT2 BADGE on the fender.

 

[street heat]

Some pics today

 

[Snicklefritz]

our friend with the tribute edition brought a couple of suede armrest covers over. the gt1 got the black one, the blue premium got the red one. my wife decided.


edit to say, that yesterday I also replaced the two fob batteries. one was no longer opening the car - this is the '19 premium I am talking about. both are still strong enough to give cheery light in a couple of little led 'candles', ready for the season. one is slightly brighter than the other, and that would be the battery from the fob that still opened the car's doors. these batteries I replaced are close to five years old.

 

[JSolo]

Link for the cover? I'd love to get rid of the tower I have over mine.