Bolt on mods without a JB4 or tune

sil25rs

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Hi all,

I am just curious if adding bolt ons without getting a piggyback or ecu tune will cause a stinger to over boost, even on normal or spirited driving?

Bolt ons considering
intakes
exhaust (stock secondary pipe)
intercooler

JB4 would be nice if my state (Cali) had 93+ octane readily available.

Still have a few thousand miles on my plugs before I change them and consider the tune path.

Thanks!
 
Breathing mods will let you flow more air (and therefore fuel), but you'll be limited to stock boost, so no real gain. Maybe slightly faster spoolup. Intercooler could help keep things cooler if you're really pushing it in hot weather, but again you're stuck at stock boost levels. You may not overboost and throw a code, if your wastegates can handle the extra flow, but your ECU will just be dumping the excess.

I believe Map 1 is meant for 91 (YMMV, check your logs). And if you have E85, you can mix that with 91, just might be limited to Map 3 where others with 93 can hit Map 4. Still probably a more productive route than trying to eek out gains at stock boost.
 
Hi all,

I am just curious if adding bolt ons without getting a piggyback or ecu tune will cause a stinger to over boost, even on normal or spirited driving?

Bolt ons considering
intakes
exhaust (stock secondary pipe)
intercooler

JB4 would be nice if my state (Cali) had 93+ octane readily available.

Still have a few thousand miles on my plugs before I change them and consider the tune path.

Thanks!
I had intercooler before the Jb4 and the car felt slower. I wouldn’t get that until after a tune.

Even if you stay on Map 1 with 91 it’s worth it.
I’ve been on map 1 for few months and just recently started adding a gallon of e85 for map 2. I also don’t have 93.
 
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You can absolutely run basic bolt-ons without a tune. I tend to like to get my bolts on first and install one at a time in case there are any issues it becomes easy to address and then the icing on the cake is the tune. The tune will allow the entire system to work more efficiently and more effectively. You could hold off on the intercooler and put that money towards other parts it just depends on how hot it gets by you and how often you are running the car hard and for what duration. I ran all the mods you listed for nearly a year before I went with the Jb4 and I had no problems whatsoever.
 
Thanks for the input, all.

What's the stock boost on these bad boys?

@Scorpion24 Is it because the Mishimoto FMIC was heavier?? I was considering the BMS intercooler.

Interestingly enough, a gas station was recently build near me and has e85. Although convenient, I will have to map out where the e85 stations are along my routes if I want to always fill with e85. Kinda like a tesla looking for charge stations on a road trip:D:rofl::rofl::rofl:

@Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store thats what I was leaning towards as well. Add bolt ons and make sure the engine is healthy then eventually button it up with a tune.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Thanks for the input, all.

What's the stock boost on these bad boys?

@Scorpion24 Is it because the Mishimoto FMIC was heavier?? I was considering the BMS intercooler.
Normal range from the factory is 12-14psi depending on barometric pressure, intake temperatures, engine speed, time under boost, and other factors.

And could be because the FMIC is heavier. Also since you’re putting on a bigger intercooler it can increase turbo lag. I ended up getting the Jb4 pretty quickly after the FMIC.
 
Interestingly enough, a gas station was recently build near me and has e85. Although convenient, I will have to map out where the e85 stations are along my routes if I want to always fill with e85. Kinda like a tesla looking for charge stations on a road trip:D:rofl::rofl::rofl:
It's not all or nothing. You can run map 3/4 when you have an E30 mix, then if you end up filling up with straight premium, drop it down to 1/2 or even stock. I've done the latter for road trips where I'm not going to be driving hard (and would rather have the slightly better mileage vs. ethanol).

Then when you go back from premium back to E30, no need to run your tank empty, just add a full tank's worth of E85 (say 4-5 gallons) before topping off with premium, instead of the 3 or whatever gallons of E85 you'd add if you had a quarter tank of E30 already.
 
The only bolt on Ive heard can cause overboost is primary cat deletes, havent heard anyone having issues with anything else.
 
Get a tune
 
100% the best and easiest way to improve performance is the 450hp BMS jb4 kit.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Honestly I plan to get the jb4 with all the fixings first (EWG, Fuel lines, Blue tooth)
Then intakes, considered exhaust but it seems to be for more noise associated reasons instead of performance. I may go first and secondary pipes, but not a priority. Then Front and rear strut braces with the bms diff brace. Anything past that would be either a HPFP (bout 1500 usd) or a BMS intercooler with the cpi (which might be around the same price comparatively).

I'd say anything above 500 Whp, you're gonna need bigger turbos, then bigger piping, and that'll get expensive. Fastest built stinger I've seen had around 712hp/711 tq.
 
Honestly I plan to get the jb4 with all the fixings first (EWG, Fuel lines, Blue tooth)
Then intakes, considered exhaust but it seems to be for more noise associated reasons instead of performance. I may go first and secondary pipes, but not a priority. Then Front and rear strut braces with the bms diff brace. Anything past that would be either a HPFP (bout 1500 usd) or a BMS intercooler with the cpi (which might be around the same price comparatively).

I'd say anything above 500 Whp, you're gonna need bigger turbos, then bigger piping, and that'll get expensive. Fastest built stinger I've seen had around 712hp/711 tq.
Don't even consider strut braces until you've already installed front and rear sway bars, they will make way more of a difference.
 
My car is a 2022 and I overboosted with only panel filters with ram air snorkels and a catback exhaust before I got a tune. Even when I had a Racechip GTS, I would overboost if the temperature was under 50F.
 
Intake and downpipes can, especially on the 2023-2024, they are more sensitive to overboost for whatever reason.
I have BMS intakes and Ark secondary downpipes and have never overboosted in my 2018 over the past 2 years.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Don't even consider strut braces until you've already installed front and rear sway bars, they will make way more of a difference.
I meant sway bars, my fault.
 
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Don't even consider strut braces until you've already installed front and rear sway bars, they will make way more of a difference.
I concur with this. After I installed the Whiteline sway bars it feels like a completely different car.
 
Anytime anyone asks what the best Stinger mod is I always say hands down front and rear sway bars. No idea why KIA left so much room for improvement on the table, the tradeoff in ride quality is so small for the massive boost in driving confidence and improvment in body roll.
 
I'd probably go with Whiteline's myself. Had them on my previous car and loved them.

Rears look easy to install, how much of a PITA are the fronts?

Also, would a pedal tuner be a good "bolt on mod"?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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