Turbo protection/warranty

[SRV]

I would check several shops to make sure the prices are right.

Another thing I would do which I mentioned earlier is to to remove and inspect the intercooler - all that debris hit it first. You might be surprised what you'll find on the turbo side of it.

 

[Brichinelo]

I would check several shops to make sure the prices are right.

Another thing I would do which I mentioned earlier is to to remove and inspect the intercooler - all that debris hit it first. You might be surprised what you'll find on the turbo side of it.

Gotcha . I’ll start there with the intercooler.

 

[oddball]

Given the annoyances involved in getting to the spark plugs on the v6, I bet 3 hours is the book time. The book procedure probably says to pull the intake.

A compression test is quite easy and the tool isn't very expensive. It's easy to interpret the results, too. You get a PSI number for each cylinder. Is that number in a reasonable range and are all cylinders within, say, 5% of each other? Perfect!

A leak down test is a bit more complicated - you do need a decently powerful air compressor - and the tool is a bit pricey for what it is. You also have to be careful to get the rotating assembly in just the right position to get useful results. It's also a bit more tricky to interpret. You get a leak percentage, plus have to listen for various sounds in various areas to interpret the meaning of that percentage.

If you have a JB4, the per-cylinder timing logging will also give you an idea. A damaged cylinder will have problems under power and will have messy timing adjustments.

 

[Brichinelo]

Given the annoyances involved in getting to the spark plugs on the v6, I bet 3 hours is the book time. The book procedure probably says to pull the intake.

A compression test is quite easy and the tool isn't very expensive. It's easy to interpret the results, too. You get a PSI number for each cylinder. Is that number in a reasonable range and are all cylinders within, say, 5% of each other? Perfect!

A leak down test is a bit more complicated - you do need a decently powerful air compressor - and the tool is a bit pricey for what it is. You also have to be careful to get the rotating assembly in just the right position to get useful results. It's also a bit more tricky to interpret. You get a leak percentage, plus have to listen for various sounds in various areas to interpret the meaning of that percentage.

If you have a JB4, the per-cylinder timing logging will also give you an idea. A damaged cylinder will have problems under power and will have messy timing adjustments.

I called a shop to inquire about it. About $400 for three hours of labor like you mentioned. Called a Kia dealership as well and they quoted $600. Definitely a test worth getting done after what I went through. I’ll start with what @SRV mentioned about the intercooler and go from there. Thanks to you both for the quick car lesson and I’ll dig into these tests on my own with some more research.

 

[D.J.]

Our engines are high pressure (178 psi min) with max 14 psi variance between cylinders.

 

[Brichinelo]

Our engines are high pressure (178 psi min) with max 14 psi variance between cylinders.



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Been a lil busy but this week I’m getting this done. Rather be safe than sorry

 

[Brichinelo]

At the shop now. Getting the compression test and air leak down test for $400. @SRV one of the techs said both of these tests are still not 100% guaranteed that nothing is wrong. True or false? Still would rather get it done than not to have some type of peace of mind

 

[Devin]

At the shop now. Getting the compression test and air leak down test for $400. @SRV one of the techs said both of these tests are still not 100% guaranteed that nothing is wrong. True or false? Still would rather get it done than not to have some type of peace of mind

The only thing that is 100% would be a visual inspection of those components. I would be very comfortable if both those tests showed good results.

 

[Brichinelo]

So another confirmation that my car was probably tuned and tampered with. The spark plugs the guy pulled out weren’t factory. They were denso. Glad I purchased a set of hks plugs way back when I first got the car so they will be throwing those in.

 

[General_Vodka]

Don't need to remove the surge tank when doing the test. Disconnect spark plugs and you good to go. That's what I did on mine. Oh and unplug the fuel wires. Took under half an hour

 

[Brichinelo]

Don't need to remove the surge tank when doing the test. Disconnect spark plugs and you good to go. That's what I did on mine. Oh and unplug the fuel wires. Took under half an hour

Had to run home and then come back out to the shop to get the hks plugs but he dropped those in and said everything looks fine. All the cylinder numbers were in the same range 160’s. No number was out of the ordinary. Big relief off my shoulder and big shout out too @SRV for mentioning these tests. Thank you guys so much. Really appreciate it.

 

[D.J.]

Had to run home and then come back out to the shop to get the hks plugs but he dropped those in and said everything looks fine. All the cylinder numbers were in the same range 160’s. No number was out of the ordinary. Big relief off my shoulder and big shout out too @SRV for mentioning these tests. Thank you guys so much. Really appreciate it.

160psi across all 6 is great for consistent, but quite low to spec!

Strange.

 

[Brichinelo]

160psi across all 6 is great for consistent, but quite low to spec!

Strange.

The shop was telling me that normally you do these tests at operating temperature when the car is on if I recall correctly don’t quote me. Spoke with the tech and said he didn’t feel the need to because the target Numbers you mentioned 178 psi min would definitely have been exceeded due to how hot the engine can get so the car was cooled down for a bit and every clyinder number fell between 160-170psi. Might not be perfect but I feel ALOT better that I got it done and they were consistent like you said. Car is still running fine with just the intakes in. I’m not going to over stress it anymore. I did all I could for now and I’m far from Mechanically inclined . Jus the bits and pieces you guys share and knowledge of my own. Still thankful that you mentioned those numbers. Should I be worried ?

 

[Kamauxx]

So another confirmation that my car was probably tuned and tampered with. The spark plugs the guy pulled out weren’t factory. They were denso. Glad I purchased a set of hks plugs way back when I first got the car so they will be throwing those in.

Smells like JB4. Terry is the only person in the Stinger game that recommends Densos. Probably was ECU tuned and monitored/dialed in with a JB4. Is it too late to sell?

 

[Brichinelo]

Smells like JB4. Terry is the only person in the Stinger game that recommends Densos. Probably was ECU tuned and monitored/dialed in with a JB4. Is it too late to sell?

I dropped a pretty penny in this vehicle already. And to top it off I get in my vehicle as we speak to grab a bite to eat and the check engine light is on when I start it up. WTF !!!

 

[Brichinelo]

Smells like JB4. Terry is the only person in the Stinger game that recommends Densos. Probably was ECU tuned and monitored/dialed in with a JB4. Is it too late to sell?

 

[Brichinelo]

 

[Brichinelo]

It might be time to part out. I don’t get it. Smh

 

[General_Vodka]

Code?

It might be time to part out. I don’t get it. Smh

 

[Kamauxx]

I dropped a pretty penny in this vehicle already. And to top it off I get in my vehicle as we speak to grab a bite to eat and the check engine light is on when I start it up. WTF !!!

Wth. I think you bought someone's ruined project. Jeez man, sorry you're dealing with that shit. Time to kill it with fire and collect the insurance.