Layering Wax/sealant

EClapp3

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Hey guys I don't know if anyone in here knows the answer to this but here goes. I'm going to wash, clay, swirl remove (if needed), Blacklight, extreme top coat sealant, 3x paste wax. All Chemical guys products if you don't know.
No my question is the extreme top coat really helpful in this situation or is it more of an all in one and I should choose something else? The description of it is pretty confusing. Thanks
 
I would do a ceramic coating before adding any waxes or sealants
I'm not going to do ceramic coating. I know they are nice but I'm not going that deep into the paint correction that I would be happy putting a ceramic on. I'm definitely not paying someone to do it either, I'm happy doing wax and other sealants a couple times a year...that I would still do over top of the ceramic anyway.
 
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You don't need deep paint correction for the benefits, and there are lots of DIY solutions for not a lot of $$... (think around $80) Sure a great paint correction would be great, but that's true even if you are just doing wax. The DIY kits claim 3-7 years, I think real world is likely half that but for 80 bucks I'm game. None of them (even the pro ones) are a forever coating :D
 
You don't need deep paint correction for the benefits, and there are lots of DIY solutions for not a lot of $$... (think around $80) Sure a great paint correction would be great, but that's true even if you are just doing wax. The DIY kits claim 3-7 years, I think real world is likely half that but for 80 bucks I'm game. None of them (even the pro ones) are a forever coating :D
Yeah I know they aren't forever, just the thought of me not getting it correct then locking in that incorrection for a while, or screwing it up makes me anxious af.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
If you apply the sealant it is best to top it with a layer of wax. If you like Chem guys get jet seal. I swear that stuff doesn't even come off with strip washes.
 
Yeah I know they aren't forever, just the thought of me not getting it correct then locking in that incorrection for a while, or screwing it up makes me anxious af.
I hear you.. but they very easy to do now, and you are less likely to do any damage compared to claying, or swirl removal! (and it isn't permanent like a scratch!)
This guy has a bunch of different "how to's " of a good mix of brands... binge on a few and you will be ready to go!
 
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Paste wax (as long as it's a pure wax, not a cleaner wax or something) usually is your final step. Something like a Glaze goes on first, then a sealant then final wax. I know many people that put a sealant on and call it a day.

Of course ceramic is a very good way to go. If you go the DIY route, it's a million percent worth it.

Wax isn't a very stable foundation to layer things on top of, part of the reason it's usually last
 
Paste wax (as long as it's a pure wax, not a cleaner wax or something) usually is your final step. Something like a Glaze goes on first, then a sealant then final wax. I know many people that put a sealant on and call it a day.

Of course ceramic is a very good way to go. If you go the DIY route, it's a million percent worth it.

Wax isn't a very stable foundation to layer things on top of, part of the reason it's usually last
Correct, that's what I said.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Paste wax (as long as it's a pure wax, not a cleaner wax or something) usually is your final step. Something like a Glaze goes on first, then a sealant then final wax. I know many people that put a sealant on and call it a day.

Of course ceramic is a very good way to go. If you go the DIY route, it's a million percent worth it.

Wax isn't a very stable foundation to layer things on top of, part of the reason it's usually last
Sealant then a wax then a glaze. If you don't don't seal it first don't bother
 

glaze, sealant, wax, in that order.
All a glaze does is fill marring. If you actually do a proper polish you don't need a glaze, then you seal it. If you want to be lazy sure glaze it.
 
All a glaze does is fill marring. If you actually do a proper polish you don't need a glaze, then you seal it. If you want to be lazy sure glaze it.
Even most final polishes do this as well. Its pretty hard to find ones that dont.
 
Even most final polishes do this as well. Its pretty hard to find ones that dont.
Backfire or 3D. any real polish that isn't a single step won't fill. If you actually properly correct a car you don't need a glaze.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yeah I know they aren't forever, just the thought of me not getting it correct then locking in that incorrection for a while, or screwing it up makes me anxious af.

IMO ceramic is overkill on a $35-50,000 car anyway. And really, at $1500+ for a whole car I'd 3m wrap or Xpel the entire car for $2500, buying a decade or possibly more. But that's a different discussion.

Like you, the cons of me messing up or having something out of my control mess up the ceramic application just far outweigh the pros of saving money doing it myself.
 
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IMO ceramic is overkill on a $35-50,000 car anyway. And really, at $1500+ for a whole car I'd 3m wrap or Xpel the entire car for $2500, buying a decade or possibly more. But that's a different discussion.

Like you, the cons of me messing up or having something out of my control mess up the ceramic application just far outweigh the pros of saving money doing it myself.
And ceramic coating wont protect against rock chips or anything but light scratches. I dont see it being worth it when I want to put the time to wax in. I also like the deeper wax look over ceramic anyway.
 
I've about decided that when the time doth come for a full paint correction (hopefully a ways off yet), I will PPF the entire car. Having the entire front done has been wholly satisfying. Yesterday I read that proper PPF "sealant" is recommended; something to seal the pours in the plastic: but you only do this after the installation has cured at least a week, letting the moister evaporate (that's why you don't worry about any small bubbles that you notice after PPF installation; those all disappear in a few days). Paint Protection Film Care & Instructions. Cleaning, Maintenance
 
I've about decided that when the time doth come for a full paint correction (hopefully a ways off yet), I will PPF the entire car. Having the entire front done has been wholly satisfying. Yesterday I read that proper PPF "sealant" is recommended; something to seal the pours in the plastic: but you only do this after the installation has cured at least a week, letting the moister evaporate (that's why you don't worry about any small bubbles that you notice after PPF installation; those all disappear in a few days). Paint Protection Film Care & Instructions. Cleaning, Maintenance
Prepare to spend about $3,000 to $4,000 to do that. You can put most of the new DIY ceramic coatings over PPF. There are dedicated PPF coatings but they're typically professional install ones and are $$$$.
 
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And ceramic coating wont protect against rock chips or anything but light scratches. I dont see it being worth it when I want to put the time to wax in. I also like the deeper wax look over ceramic anyway.
I recommend an in between. Try Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray. It will save you from multiple sealant/wax applications, provides crazy gloss and slickness and beads water like crazy. You also can get up to a year of durability. Mine survived the winter on both my winter daily vehicles. It’s also like $20 and you use one to two sprays per panel so will last a long time. Best part is you can put it on everything (trim, glass, wheels) unlike a wax.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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