First time paint correction/wax

[narsnail]

I've been doing a ton of reading, watching videos, etc. I was just hoping for some input.

What I purchased:
Griots G9 polisher
Oberk pads/compounds
Meguiars NXT 2.0
Wash bucket
Meguiars soap

Yet to purchase:
5 inch backing plate
Clay
Grit guard
Microfiber cloths
wash mitt
Decontamination spray (Sonax)


1. Do I do the decon spray before the clay or after? Do I need to do both?
2. Old style clay bar or synthetic mitt? Seems the mitt makes more sense and is easier to use IMO.
3. Do I need to use another sealant before the NXT? From what I read it's a sealant and a wax? Never got a clear answer. I sort of impulse bought it since its quite easy to apply.
4. Anything I missed or suggestions??


I'll have 2 days at the start of April to do this, will definitely post a before and after. I made the mistake of going through a touch washer once and have real minor swirls.

 

[RedCal]

So Covid has left me WAY too much time to watch experts detail cars lol
So my "i'm not an expert, but I've watched a lot of them" $0.02 is....


Wax? - naaaa ... if you have the polisher, I would go DIY Ceramic,
Buckets - you need 2 - they are cheap (can tire, or HD)
Wash - You need a "strip soap" to get the waxes and polishing compound out I bought the chemical guys "Clean Slate"
Clay - Pick the one you like they have pros and cons to each
Microfiber - get the Rag Company ones from Amazon... pretty reasonable get some "wiping ones" and some drying ones
Wash mitt - Rag Company again get 3... a "Top" of the car one, and "middle of the car: one, and a lower one
Decontamination spray - are you thinking/talking Iron remover, or an IPA spray / wipe or both? If IPA... just make your own!

 

[narsnail]

So Covid has left me WAY too much time to watch experts detail cars lol
So my "i'm not an expert, but I've watched a lot of them" $0.02 is....


Wax? - naaaa ... if you have the polisher, I would go DIY Ceramic,
Buckets - you need 2 - they are cheap (can tire, or HD)
Wash - You need a "strip soap" to get the waxes and polishing compound out I bought the chemical guys "Clean Slate"
Clay - Pick the one you like they have pros and cons to each
Microfiber - get the Rag Company ones from Amazon... pretty reasonable get some "wiping ones" and some drying ones
Wash mitt - Rag Company again get 3... a "Top" of the car one, and "middle of the car: one, and a lower one
Decontamination spray - are you thinking/talking Iron remover, or an IPA spray / wipe or both? If IPA... just make your own!

I can't do the ceramic unfortunately, I don't have the time to leave it to cure. Even if everything went perfectly I would have at most ~36 hours to leave it, not sure if that's enough time. Any good wax suggestion, preferably something long lasting.

I was looking at this, I got new front pads and they're quite dusty plus I drive in the winter. Figured it better to do it and know I didn't need to.

Thanks for your suggestions, I will grab another bucket and look into the other stuff.

 

[ZedsGT]

I do wax removing wash, dry, clay bar, then a prep spray. Then a polish.

 

[RedCal]

I can't do the ceramic unfortunately, I don't have the time to leave it to cure. Even if everything went perfectly I would have at most ~36 hours to leave it, not sure if that's enough time. Any good wax suggestion, preferably something long lasting.

I was looking at this, I got new front pads and they're quite dusty plus I drive in the winter. Figured it better to do it and know I didn't need to.

Thanks for your suggestions, I will grab another bucket and look into the other stuff.

36 hours is more than enough -you only need 5 hours to touch dry.... should avoid water (rain, snow) for 48... and don't wash it for a week after

Iron remover The Sonax one or the AutoGlym one will do nicely

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/autoglym-magma-0396166p.html#srp

Washing - (I use a less expensive one for the lower third )
https://www.amazon.ca/RAG-COMPANY-P...ywords=The+Rag+Company&qid=1616184449&sr=8-10
Drying
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07Q6PLX4V...olid=208ZV5NX1L6DP&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Buffing
https://www.amazon.ca/RAG-COMPANY-P...eywords=The+Rag+Company&qid=1616184449&sr=8-6

 

[narsnail]

36 hours is more than enough -you only need 5 hours to touch dry.... should avoid water (rain, snow) for 48... and don't wash it for a week after

I can cure it inside, but once its applied and cured it has to be parked outside. Id have to get lucky for it to work.

What do you think of the turtle wax hybrid ceramic wax?? It seems to be pretty solid just not sure how long lasting it is.

 

[RedCal]

From the reviews it looks pretty good...
this one just got a very good review

the overall breakdown is
Spray sealant/ceramics - easy prep, and application = short life on the car
Pastes - some prep, more work than sprays = slightly longer life
True ceramics - more prep = longest life (even better with spray toppers)

 

[MerlintheMad]

I find your procrastination of quantities of microfiber disturbing. Microfiber, after getting rid of hard water by whatever means (I recommend distilled water), is the most important tool of cleaning and detailing: I don't see how paint correction can be done well without microfiber. Not that you were planning on doing everything else and leaving microfiber out: I just thought it would have been the first "hardware" that you picked up.

Really, the most important thing is to wash often. Once a week is not too often (sometimes I let it go into the next week). Waxing is not ever necessary if you keep that clear coat cleeeaan. After a wash, I can run my fingers along the rocker panels and it is as smooth as a china plate; I've never waxed (much less put on ceramic).

 

[RedCal]

A wax or paint protection of some kind is 100% required

 

[MerlintheMad]

A wax or paint protection of some kind is 100% required

Why?

 

[RedCal]

I can't believe I am explaining why you should wax a car on a car forum.... SMH
Protection - protect the paint from UV, dirt, industrial fallout, bird droppings, etc between washes
Makes it easier to clean, contamination doesn't stick as easy
Appearance, adds gloss and shine

 

[narsnail]

If you plan to keep the car for 10+ years like i do, only makes sense to keep the paint nice and protected . Especially in harsh Canadian climates.

So after some more reading I have figured out NXT 2.0 is more a sealant after a paint correction, and I will use Collinite as the final layer of wax. I'm fine re applying every 3 or 4 months, I'll look i to a ceramic down the line maybe next year.

 

[RedCal]

You can do it at any point, but the sooner after polish the better (so you don't have to do it again ) If you are good with quarterly application or more frequent a spray ceramic would be my recommendation as you don't have worry about getting in on plastics or cleaning it out of the cracks. Ie the easierit is to do the more likely that it gets done some can even be done as a drying aid making it super fast and easy

 

[MerlintheMad]

I can't believe I am explaining why you should wax a car on a car forum.... SMH
Protection - protect the paint from UV, dirt, industrial fallout, bird droppings, etc between washes
Makes it easier to clean, contamination doesn't stick as easy
Appearance, adds gloss and shine

That's what modern clear coat is for. If it stays clean and smooth that's all the shine you need for healthy good looking color.

I agree with the easier to clean part, for ceramic; standard wax not so much.

The problem here is effort: most people who care about their car's appearance at all will do marathon paint protection/correction, then call it good for days/weeks even months at a time and do little. The grime builds up, necessitating another "marathon" correction and protection.

The other way is to park out of the sun and out of the weather; and wash often; no buildup allowed. The need for protectants is moot if no grime is allowed to sit for even hours. When I see a grimy spot, I get out the microfiber and the spray bottle and take it off. Bird crap is a no brainer; the instant I see the smallest speck, off it comes. Etc.

 

[RedCal]

I'm sure in your many decades of being a "car guy" you are intimately familiar with the washing and maintenance habits of those who spend hours cleaning and polishing their cars. What other sites or forums do you garner your vast car knowledge from? Or maybe you have a huge number of car guy friends? Maybe you are old school and have read many books on the subject? Or maybe you worked in the auto industry and have deep knowledge of painting and detailing cars? Chemical engineer at PPG? BASF? Axalta? Please enlighten me... Or maybe you should do some research before you post.

 

[MerlintheMad]

I'm sure in your many decades of being a "car guy" you are intimately familiar with the washing and maintenance habits of those who spend hours cleaning and polishing their cars. What other sites or forums do you garner your vast car knowledge from? Or maybe you have a huge number of car guy friends? Maybe you are old school and have read many books on the subject? Or maybe you worked in the auto industry and have deep knowledge of painting and detailing cars? Chemical engineer at PPG? BASF? Axalta? Please enlighten me... Or maybe you should do some research before you post.

Stick with the topic. You said, "A wax or paint protection of some kind is 100% required." I asked why? And now you're being snarky.

I have a particular friend who never waxes his cars. I've known him for over 45 years and his cars are always immaculate; I don't have a memory of ever seeing one of his cars dirty. They are nearly always garaged. When I told him how I do it (wash every time it rains/snows or every week to get the "patina" from the dirty air off), that was when he told me that since cars come three-step with clear coat, he's never waxed, only washed often like I do.

Waxing has been rendered redundant. Ceramic is a relatively new thing. And yes, I wouldn't think to contradict the claims that cleaning is made easier because of ceramic.

That wasn't what I was asking. Why is "protection ... 100% required"? And all you've talked about is cleaning and polishing (UV? I'm not sitting in the sun all day). I get it, it's enjoyable and compulsive: and it's also big business.

I have a new level of OC because of this car: it was starting to develop when I got my '94 Voyager repainted: the amount of car washing I did increased several hundred percent. Now it's through the roof. But it's to keep the clear coat (and PPF) from getting a buildup of grime (iron deposits, and etc.). The labor is fun to me, and the frequency is productive of making the job of staying clean easier.

If I were mistaken about this, by now, nearly three years in, my method would have failed to keep the grime and iron deposits off, and the lower portions of my Stinger would be gritty and grabby to the touch. They are as smooth as china glass, like a new car.

 

[stoopid]

If someone can keep a car's clear coat spotless and promptly remove any bug guts, water spots, sap, bird shit, and other nasties before they can set and etch into the (clear coat) paint, then yes people can go without paint protection/wax.

But for most of us with less time than that, or for situations where something may go unnoticed for a day or week, it would be nice to not have a day or week prove to be the difference between damaged paint and not damaged paint. Waxing, at minimum, seems like a viable option for keeping the clear coat, clear. It certainly doesn't do the car any harm, and even provides a bit of additional UV protection (but not so much it should be cited as a reason to apply it).

I do what I consider to be the bare minimum maintenance on my paint, and twice a year I'll wash and wax by hand. The rest of the time it's touch free car washes when I can find one with no 4 car deep line. Periodic waxing is IMO a bare minimum. I've not had any paint issues on my long term owned cars, aside from other people doing shit especially to the doors (scuffs, scratches, dents) or rock chips to the front end.

 

[stoopid]

A wax or paint protection of some kind is 98.46% required

Fixed.

 

[RedCal]

That's what modern clear coat is for. If it stays clean and smooth that's all the shine you need for healthy good looking color.

I am on topic... I told you why its important and your reply comment was the "That's what modern clear coat is for" dismissing the information... sure regular washing is a very important step, that's not even the subject of discussion, but you jumped in with a typical "MerlintheMad" post of "waxing isn't necessary if you wash regularly" if you are going to post on a topic how about adding some value to the discussion for a change instead of useless spam? Or just don't post anything and maybe you will learn something.
Snarky? Yup!, but if you are going to offer up your "expert" advice on modern clear coats and car detailing to argue with others you had better have some tiny bit knowledge to back it up, don't you think? Or do you think it's acceptable to spout garbage?
So answer the question... where did you gather that information? "I have a friend who..." is hardly an expert source. So please post up some links, I would love to be educated by new information. If you can find a single industry expert that says that waxing or paint protection is not required I will gladly eat my words and apologize. Otherwise perhaps you should consider my advice?

I'm done with my rant

 

[RedCal]

Fixed.

Want to meet in the middle at 99.23%? I will go as low as 99%...