PLEASE HELP!

JLambGT2

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I was just driving down the highway and my Stinger suddenly lost all power, the check engine light came on, the auto hold light came on, the epb light came on. When stepping on the gas pedal it would make a very "bogged down" noise, wouldn't accelerate, and wouldn't go above 25 mph. I was in a spot where I couldn't pull over, with concrete barriers on both sides of me and no shoulder. I drove it like that for 2 miles before I was able to exit and I'm currently sitting at a gas station. I'm 2 hours from home. From reading, it sounds like it went into limp mode? What could've happened to it? And what can I do right now to check/fix the problem?
 
I was just driving down the highway and my Stinger suddenly lost all power, the check engine light came on, the auto hold light came on, the EPB (Electronic Parking Brake) light came on. When stepping on the gas pedal it would make a very "bogged down" noise, wouldn't accelerate, and wouldn't go above 25 mph. I was in a spot where I couldn't pull over, with concrete barriers on both sides of me and no shoulder. I drove it like that for 2 miles before I was able to exit and I'm currently sitting at a gas station. I'm 2 hours from home. From reading, it sounds like it went into limp mode? What could've happened to it? And what can I do right now to check/fix the problem?
it is much serious than a normal limp mode. a limp mode caused by overboost doesn't throw any lights and speed is unrestricted.
 
it is much serious than a normal limp mode. a limp mode caused by overboost doesn't throw any lights and speed is unrestricted.
Yeah it happened out of nowhere and I had no idea what was going on, and I thought it was going to come to a stop but it cruised at 25 until I was able to exit. I always turn auto hold off, it was in sport mode, I never turn traction control off, and I never use my electronic parking break so how/why did all those lights come on?
 
______________________________
Yeah it happened out of nowhere and I had no idea what was going on, and I thought it was going to come to a stop but it cruised at 25 until I was able to exit. I always turn auto hold off, it was in sport mode, I never turn traction control off, and I never use my electronic parking break so how/why did all those lights come on?
Pull oil dipstick and check the level and if there are any sparkles in it. If the level is very low or sparkles are there then tow to the dealer. Otherwise let it sit for like 20 mins with it locked and you far enough away so it won't sense your key fob. Then try starting it. unless you have a 10m socket with you, then just pop the battery cable for 10 mins
 
Try disconnecting the battery for 5min. Might help to get it to the shop.
 
What model are you driving?

Any modifications?

Did you hear any ticking or shaking sound when the car was still on?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
What model are you driving?

Any modifications?

Did you hear any ticking or shaking sound when the car was still on?
2018 AWD GT2. NO mods. 20,000 miles. It was pouring rain, was set to cruise control at 75 mph, and there were zero warning signs before. Temp Guage was normal. After I got to the gas station I let it set for 2 hours and finally I decided to see if it would start and see what happened, it started right up, the warning lights were gone. So I drove it back home gently, and it was perfectly fine. I'm completely lost as to what happened. I've called multiple dealers and they all say they've never heard of anything like that, and they all wouldn't say anything other than to bring it in.
 
"Cannot duplicate" is what will happen at a dealer when the car is fine. This is the most frustrating thing about cars with so much electronic sh*t about them. I don't quite have nightmares about it, but stories like yours bring my fears back about having a modern car like this. Electronics/computers have always been my bane: so what possessed me to spring for this car? It remains a mystery: and so far it has ALL been good. Hopefully your issue, whatever it is, can be traced easily and isn't anything more than some failed system's failed "chip" or whathaveyou. Heh!

But crap, man! Knowing it's happened already, you won't drive with calmness until it happens again, and you can have it at the dealer WITH the problem still manifesting: and they can tell you exactly what is going on. I wish I could offer more.
 
"Cannot duplicate" is what will happen at a dealer when the car is fine. This is the most frustrating thing about cars with so much electronic sh*t about them. I don't quite have nightmares about it, but stories like yours bring my fears back about having a modern car like this. Electronics/computers have always been my bane: so what possessed me to spring for this car? It remains a mystery: and so far it has ALL been good. Hopefully your issue, whatever it is, can be traced easily and isn't anything more than some failed system's failed "chip" or whathaveyou. Heh!

But crap, man! Knowing it's happened already, you won't drive with calmness until it happens again, and you can have it at the dealer WITH the problem still manifesting: and they can tell you exactly what is going on. I wish I could offer more.
Yeah I'm right there with you brother. What bothers me is the fact that I have no idea what could have caused it, therefore I don't know what needs to be fixed or if it's something small that could've been avoided by me doing something differently. And the 5-6 service departments I called and explained what happened acted like it was the craziest thing they've ever heard, wouldn't give any information at all, and we're very careful with their words like I was trying to put them in a corner. Honestly, I don't care what caused it, and if it's something covered under warranty or not. I love that car, so if it was something I had to pay for myself that's perfectly fine. And on top of that, my wife and 9 month old little girl ride in that car with me all the time, and where this happened last night was on a 70mph hwy with concrete barriers on both sides and no shoulder. Knowing something like that has happened, and could happen at any time and not have a clue as to how it can be fixed/prevented in the future is not a good feeling lol. But I appreciate the help man and if/when I figure it out I'll pass on the wisdom so it doesn't happen to you.
 
Yeah I'm right there with you brother. What bothers me is the fact that I have no idea what could have caused it, therefore I don't know what needs to be fixed or if it's something small that could've been avoided by me doing something differently. And the 5-6 service departments I called and explained what happened acted like it was the craziest thing they've ever heard, wouldn't give any information at all, and we're very careful with their words like I was trying to put them in a corner. Honestly, I don't care what caused it, and if it's something covered under warranty or not. I love that car, so if it was something I had to pay for myself that's perfectly fine. And on top of that, my wife and 9 month old little girl ride in that car with me all the time, and where this happened last night was on a 70mph hwy with concrete barriers on both sides and no shoulder. Knowing something like that has happened, and could happen at any time and not have a clue as to how it can be fixed/prevented in the future is not a good feeling lol. But I appreciate the help man and if/when I figure it out I'll pass on the wisdom so it doesn't happen to you.
I’m the one who made the thread way back with the same experience as you..https://stingerforum.org/threads/stinger-in-limp-mode-engine-code-for-map-sensor-internal-torque-control-module.13495/

Driving about 80mph in eco mode(sad I know) on a hot humid summer morning and then bam car went into limp mode and every light on the dash came on, I remember barely getting off the busy freeway, letting the car sit for 10 minutes and then restarted it fine. Drove carefully to work and back without issues then went to a dealer after work and they looked it over the next morning. Check engine light was gone but they found a code or two stored in the computer. From my previous thread it seems the code that was originally stored was P061B00 - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance.

They pointed fingers at my intakes and exhaust (only ark secondary downpipes), and then mentioned something about possibly flagging my vehicle in relation to warranty. I about lost my shit, told them to clear out the code, was due for an oil change so had that done and then when I get home, I noticed my passenger side skirt was dented which of course they denied doing.

Needless to say I’ve never been back to that dump (Kia of Waldorf) and the car has ran perfectly without a hiccup for the last 20k miles/almost 2 years since that happened.
 
______________________________
Is it smoking? Bad turbos or intercooler pipeing could cause and issue. Have you had your fuse box recal work done?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Is it smoking? Bad turbos or intercooler pipeing could cause and issue. Have you had your fuse box recal work done?
No smoke. Since I've owned there hasn't been any work done to it. Is there a way I can tell if there was any fuse box work done while the previous guy had it? And what needs to be done to the fuse box exactly?
 
It was for certain 2019 models, the solution fuse kits just started coming out a few months ago..Check the fuse box cover under the hood and see if there are any added yellow or out of place stickers over certain areas of the fuse panel diagram. That’s what the dealers do once they install the recall fuse kit or at least what I’ve seen them do from this forum. (I’ve yet to have mine done)
Found a pic of what I mean.59E2C64C-D169-4346-9337-1F29AC654290.jpeg
 
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2018 AWD GT2. NO mods. 20,000 miles. It was pouring rain, was set to cruise control at 75 mph, and there were zero warning signs before. Temp Guage was normal. After I got to the gas station I let it set for 2 hours and finally I decided to see if it would start and see what happened, it started right up, the warning lights were gone. So I drove it back home gently, and it was perfectly fine. I'm completely lost as to what happened. I've called multiple dealers and they all say they've never heard of anything like that, and they all wouldn't say anything other than to bring it in.
:confused:

Yeah I'm right there with you brother. What bothers me is the fact that I have no idea what could have caused it, therefore I don't know what needs to be fixed or if it's something small that could've been avoided by me doing something differently. And the 5-6 service departments I called and explained what happened acted like it was the craziest thing they've ever heard, wouldn't give any information at all, and we're very careful with their words like I was trying to put them in a corner. Honestly, I don't care what caused it, and if it's something covered under warranty or not. I love that car, so if it was something I had to pay for myself that's perfectly fine. And on top of that, my wife and 9 month old little girl ride in that car with me all the time, and where this happened last night was on a 70mph hwy with concrete barriers on both sides and no shoulder. Knowing something like that has happened, and could happen at any time and not have a clue as to how it can be fixed/prevented in the future is not a good feeling lol. But I appreciate the help man and if/when I figure it out I'll pass on the wisdom so it doesn't happen to you.
Just bring it to a dealership and have it tested. They can pull codes. Of course the Kia dealerships will say they never heard of this and deny everything. It's Kia and their jobs lmfao.

I’m the one who made the thread way back with the same experience as you..https://stingerforum.org/threads/stinger-in-limp-mode-engine-code-for-map-sensor-internal-torque-control-module.13495/

Driving about 80mph in eco mode(sad I know) on a hot humid summer morning and then bam car went into limp mode and every light on the dash came on, I remember barely getting off the busy freeway, letting the car sit for 10 minutes and then restarted it fine. Drove carefully to work and back without issues then went to a dealer after work and they looked it over the next morning. Check engine light was gone but they found a code or two stored in the computer. From my previous thread it seems the code that was originally stored was P061B00 - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance.

They pointed fingers at my intakes and exhaust (only ark secondary downpipes), and then mentioned something about possibly flagging my vehicle in relation to warranty. I about lost my shit, told them to clear out the code, was due for an oil change so had that done and then when I get home, I noticed my passenger side skirt was dented which of course they denied doing.

Needless to say I’ve never been back to that dump (Kia of Waldorf) and the car has ran perfectly without a hiccup for the last 20k miles/almost 2 years since that happened.
Yup. Had a small little bump/scuff on my front bumper... super minor but it was there... was another little scuff/mark on the side of the car... Noticed it the next morning... not worth the fight... It's Kia lmfao...

When my mom brought in her 2015 Lexus RX350 for service last year they scuffed up the front bumper somehow... long story short they fixed everything and refunded her the entire service... which included new tires, mounting plus balancing, and alignment... complete refund... My buddy had a similar story with his E63 when someone damaged one of his wheels when backing out... pretty nasty scuffs... refunded the service and gave him another new wheel...

Certain brands take things more seriously and value their reputation... Stingers are pretty good cars but the dealerships and corporate really need to improve...
 
It was for certain 2019 models, the solution fuse kits just started coming out a few months ago..Check the fuse box cover under the hood and see if there are any added yellow or out of place stickers over certain areas of the fuse panel diagram. That’s what the dealers do once they install the recall fuse kit or at least what I’ve seen them do from this forum. (I’ve yet to have mine done yet)
Found a pic of what I mean.View attachment 56595
Is that what our recalls were for?
 
:confused:


Just bring it to a dealership and have it tested. They can pull codes. Of course the Kia dealerships will say they never heard of this and deny everything. It's Kia and their jobs lmfao.


Yup. Had a small little bump/scuff on my front bumper... super minor but it was there... was another little scuff/mark on the side of the car... Noticed it the next morning... not worth the fight... It's Kia lmfao...

When my mom brought in her 2015 Lexus RX350 for service last year they scuffed up the front bumper somehow... long story short they fixed everything and refunded her the entire service... which included new tires, mounting plus balancing, and alignment... complete refund... My buddy had a similar story with his E63 when someone damaged one of his wheels when backing out... pretty nasty scuffs... refunded the service and gave him another new wheel...

Certain brands take things more seriously and value their reputation... Stingers are pretty good cars but the dealerships and corporate really need to improve...
My mom has a 2015 Lexus RX350 too lol. They always treat her like a queen as they should.

The dealer I bought my stinger from (safford of Fredericksburg) always does a good job with oil changes and I’m going there for the hecu recall soon. Knock on wood hopefully everything goes smoothly.
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
My mom has a 2015 Lexus RX350 too lol. They always treat her like a queen as they should.

The dealer I bought my stinger from (safford of Fredericksburg) always does a good job with oil changes and I’m going there for the hecu recall soon. Knock on wood hopefully everything goes smoothly.
OH MY GOSH! That was one of the dealerships my parents were looking at! (this is when we were still living in Virginia and I was helping them cross-shop for cars since I was all over Maryland and Virginia)

Yeah my parents share a 2015 RX350 (fwd-base-none-F) and my sister just recently picked up a 2014 RX350 (fwd-base-none-F) in Florida where my folks are staying now.

But yes, knock on wood indeed! It should go well I am sure! :D
 
Is that what our recalls were for?
The HECU recall is the one with the fuse kit on the passenger side of the engine bay.
I just checked the nhtsa website 2020 KIA STINGER 4 DR RWD
and I guess the ABS/HECU recall is now for certain 2018-2021 models (was originally only 2019 models)
Here’s the thread too Hydrolic Electronic Control Unit Recall
OH MY GOSH! That was one of the dealerships my parents were looking at! (this is when we were still living in Virginia and I was helping them cross-shop for cars since I was all over Maryland and Virginia)

Yeah my parents share a 2015 RX350 (fwd-base-none-F) and my sister just recently picked up a 2014 RX350 (fwd-base-none-F) in Florida where my folks are staying now.

But yes, knock on wood indeed! It should go well I am sure! :D
Hers is around 160k miles now and it just eats brakes probably because of the traffic around DC. No other issues, Lexus reliability isn’t a joke. She had a previous gen Lexus RX330 before and that reached over 200k before she traded it in.
 
It was for certain 2019 models, the solution fuse kits just started coming out a few months ago..Check the fuse box cover under the hood and see if there are any added yellow or out of place stickers over certain areas of the fuse panel diagram. That’s what the dealers do once they install the recall fuse kit or at least what I’ve seen them do from this forum. (I’ve yet to have mine done)
Found a pic of what I mean.View attachment 56595
No yellow stickers
 

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