3.3 TT noise on cold startup from high pressure fuel pump is it normal (knock)

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I hear this low knock on first starting up and it gets a little louder after a while.It lasts about a few minutes and slowly disappears as the engine rpm returns to normal.I located it's source and it's coming from the high pressure fuel pump next to the engine on the drivers side.After restarting during the day no noise .Is this normal for this high pressure pump to do?
 
I hear this low knock on first starting up and it gets a little louder after a while.It lasts about a few minutes and slowly disappears as the engine rpm returns to normal.I located it's source and it's coming from the high pressure fuel pump next to the engine on the drivers side.After restarting during the day no noise .Is this normal for this high pressure pump to do?

On cold starts the ECU pumps more fuel to the air/fuel mixture. The ECU also makes the car idle at a higher RPM.

It's normal for your car to make all kinds of noise when initially started after cooling off. It's also normal for it to start up quieter throughout the day.
 
On cold starts the ECU pumps more fuel to the air/fuel mixture. The ECU also makes the car idle at a higher RPM.

It's normal for your car to make all kinds of noise when initially started after cooling off. It's also normal for it to start up quieter throughout the day.
Yeah that scared me too. Took mine back to the dealer ready to lose it. They held it overnight to get a cold start. Used a stethoscope, sent it to techs. Then checked the others they had on the lot. It's the same with them all. They said it's normal on cold starts and wont cause any problems.
 
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Yeah that scared me too. Took mine back to the dealer ready to lose it. They held it overnight to get a cold start. Used a stethoscope, sent it to techs. Then checked the others they had on the lot. It's the same with them all. They said it's normal on cold starts and wont cause any problems.

Thanks much appreciated
 
Mine just started doing this after the first oil change. Good to know.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Mine started after first oil change too. Interesting....why would that happen?
Used to sound good but now it sounds like a diesel tractor when it starts. Ugh!
 
Mine started after first oil change too. Interesting....why would that happen?
Used to sound good but now it sounds like a diesel tractor when it starts. Ugh!
The factory fill (break in oil?) H/K use contains 800ppm of Molybdenum.

Moly is a leading source of engine smoothness and good economy.
 
Mine started after first oil change too. Interesting....why would that happen?
Used to sound good but now it sounds like a diesel tractor when it starts. Ugh!
Oil has nothing to do with high pressure injector pump.

The Stinger has very loud rattling tappets at cold start.
 
The Stinger high pressure fuel pump works on direct cam lobe opening and closing of the fuel pump. It does not use a roller bearing therefore causing a louder tapping noise till oil pressure builds and when engine heats up it will be fine. Not a mechanical issue but a shortcoming of direct cam lobe design. Benefits simpler, lower cost to build and to maintain and faster reaction between cams and valves...
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I took mine back to the dealer after 4800 miles,they kepted it for over 7 weeks. Had Kia's field tech come out to look at it. They replaced one of the exhaust camshafts and lifters don't know which side,but i finally got it back and after a little over a week the noise started coming back. I took it back and they had the field tech come back out only to tell me that its now a normal condition. I have 11000 miles on it now and it's gotten louder,its not normal they just don't want to admit that its a design flaw.why would they replace the cam and lifters if was a normal condition.the noise does go away and it runs great I'm just disappointed but i do love the styling and interior not to mention the power and handling.
 
You think this is bad, try driving a subaru haha. They make all kinds of noise on cold start, and the direct injectors on the FRS/BRZ squeak/chirp like crazy all the time.
 
Found that swapping out for a louder exhaust helps suppress this minor annoyance at cold start. ;)
 
I took mine back to the dealer after 4800 miles,they kepted it for over 7 weeks. Had Kia's field tech come out to look at it. They replaced one of the exhaust camshafts and lifters don't know which side,but i finally got it back and after a little over a week the noise started coming back. I took it back and they had the field tech come back out only to tell me that its now a normal condition. I have 11000 miles on it now and it's gotten louder,its not normal they just don't want to admit that its a design flaw.why would they replace the cam and lifters if was a normal condition.the noise does go away and it runs great I'm just disappointed but i do love the styling and interior not to mention the power and handling.

Believe it or not, everyone who works at the dealership service department may not have in depth knowledge of how every component on the car behaves. It's unfortunate they kept your car for so long and did unnecessary work before doing research, but the fact of the matter is there is nothing wrong with your car. The clicking goes away after a minute or two of running.

I will give a little anecdote about my last car. I brought my Golf GTI in to VW because it was feeling sluggish when the temperature was cold and down on power. 3 times i brought it in and 3 times they failed to diagnose the problem correctly. And yes I had to pay for each one of those misdiagnoses. I finally figured out it was the rear PCV valve sticking when cold. If they simply looked at a schematic of that system like I eventually did, they should have been able to figure it out. In short, people in service departments may be minimally trained with the exception of doing step by step repeatable tasks. It varies by dealership, so find a good one that hires quality mechanics and technicians if you can.
 
The field tech works for Kia corporation, i had corporate involved with this issue. They are the ones who made that diagnosis. There was no tapping for the first 3000 miles. The car had 12 miles when i took it off the lot. There's a problem with the design of that engine. Im a 30 year mechanic i know there's a problem when i hear it.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
You think this is bad, try driving a subaru haha. They make all kinds of noise on cold start, and the direct injectors on the FRS/BRZ squeak/chirp like crazy all the time.
My Toyota 86 with the BRZ engine sounded like a bag of bolts being shaken around on cold startup. Was shocking. All normal.
 
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The field tech works for Kia corporation, i had corporate involved with this issue. They are the ones who made that diagnosis. There was no tapping for the first 3000 miles. The car had 12 miles when i took it off the lot. There's a problem with the design of that engine. Im a 30 year mechanic i know there's a problem when i hear it.
Then you aren't describing the same issue this thread is about. The issue this thread is about is something every single 3.3t does so it's not a problem. If you are experiencing something different perhaps a little more detail is warranted
 
Believe it or not, everyone who works at the dealership service department may not have in depth knowledge of how every component on the car behaves. It's unfortunate they kept your car for so long and did unnecessary work before doing research, but the fact of the matter is there is nothing wrong with your car. The clicking goes away after a minute or two of running.

I will give a little anecdote about my last car. I brought my Golf GTI in to VW because it was feeling sluggish when the temperature was cold and down on power. 3 times i brought it in and 3 times they failed to diagnose the problem correctly. And yes I had to pay for each one of those misdiagnoses. I finally figured out it was the rear PCV valve sticking when cold. If they simply looked at a schematic of that system like I eventually did, they should have been able to figure it out. In short, people in service departments may be minimally trained with the exception of doing step by step repeatable tasks. It varies by dealership, so find a good one that hires quality mechanics and technicians if you can.
If it's not just a standard service or the fault can't be diagnosed with the scan tool, most dealers can't help you. That seems to be my experience.
 
I’ve had personal mechanic of 35+ years experience tell me it’s normal. I started it up cold for him, he listened intently, after the rpms dropped and the idle settled, he looked up at me, gave me a smile and said it’s normal noise for a High Pressure Fuel Pump. Once the noise goes away after the idle settles down, you’ll never hear it again. I never heard it new either. As a matter of fact, I thought I heard it when it was warm. Then one day, it made the noise when cold and would go away in a minute. Never a problem to speak of.
 
Then you aren't describing the same issue this thread is about. The issue this thread is about is something every single 3.3t does so it's not a problem. If you are experiencing something different perhaps a little more detail is warranted
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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