A comparison of front vs rear vs both sway bars will be awesome. I am mostly interested in rear vs both. If someone could do it, it eouobe be very helpful and deeply appreciated. I might do it in future but it won't be in back to back driving.
Thanks to both of you, great information and what I had hoped to hear. Personally I prefer not to lower the car, so it looks like the sways will provide exactly what I'm looking for.
A comparison of front vs rear vs both sway bars will be awesome. I am mostly interested in rear vs both. If someone could do it, it eouobe be very helpful and deeply appreciated. I might do it in future but it won't be in back to back driving.
I think you will have to search for that one. I would get both, dont half do the job. It will cause the car tomtwist unevenly if you only fit one. All Soft setting best if your not track driving.
For our Perth members WA Suspensions will get you the Eibach sway bar set for $690 delivered plus fitting extra. They are offering a deal also for the Eibach springs $499.
I think you will have to search for that one. I would get both, don't half do the job. It will cause the car to twist unevenly if you inky fit one. All Soft setting best if your not track driving.
I do understand that balance is key here and I am not trying to half do the job. According to few, front are already firm enough and rear ones are comparatively weak. Even with Eibach sways, front is 39%(soft)/51%(stiff) firmer than OEM while rear are 76%(soft)/114%(firm) firmer than OEM.
@KLR STINGER posted that he had put his car on soft front and firm rear for a good balance and easy rotation.
I am a beginner and started reading about sways from like 2 months. So I am just trying to gather info.
I dunno about that, my WRX only needed a rear, Pro Kit on stock shocks and a rear sway was perfection, even if I could have changed something I wouldn't have. Doing one isn't half the job, it's a change in behavior.
I'm not saying that's the correct behavior for a Stinger, but don't necessarily do work you don't need to do.
I dunno about that, my WRX only needed a rear, Pro Kit on stock shocks and a rear sway was perfection, even if I could have changed something I wouldn't have. Doing one isn't half the job, it's a change in behavior.
I'm not saying that's the correct behavior for a Stinger, but don't necessarily do work you don't need to do.
I think if you only buy the rear the car will dig in when you corner and accelerate. My theory is u need both to balance the ride and handling. You wouldn’t walk around with one shoe on would you?
Besides I have both and it’s an awesome ride.
I think if you only buy the rear the car will dig in when you corner and accelerate. My theory is u need both to balance the ride and handling. You wouldn’t walk around with one shoe on would you?
Besides I have both and it’s an awesome ride.
That's not a very good analogy here. Sways affect your effective weight distribution. In a corner the sway prevents some of the weight of the car from transitioning to the outside tire. Too much transition and like my Sentra SER Spec-V, you stick one tire up in the air, too little and you don't get as much grip on the outside tire and lose some traction. You'll need to play with it to get the balance right.
Almost every video ive seen of a Stinger on a track shows the car lighting up the inside rear tire on sweepers = too much traction outside, not enough inside.
I would be inclined to start with a rear sway only on soft and see if that addresses the weight transfer issue and go from there.
That's not a very good analogy here. Sways affect your effective weight distribution. In a corner the sway prevents some of the weight of the car from transitioning to the outside tire. Too much transition and like my Sentra SER Spec-V, you stick one tire up in the air, too little and you don't get as much grip on the outside tire and lose some traction. You'll need to play with it to get the balance right.
Almost every video ive seen of a Stinger on a track shows the car lighting up the inside rear tire on sweepers = too much traction outside, not enough inside.
I would be inclined to start with a rear sway only on soft and see if that addresses the weight transfer issue and go from there.
Albert Biermann said the Stinger is designed with the rear end somewhat "playful". Some drivers look at the 16mm diameter OE rear sway bar and compare it to the Eibach 19mm thickness, and say, "this is how the Stinger should come from the factory in the first place." So the judgment call at Kia was for a bit less buttoned down in the rear, traded for comfort and smoothness in normal driving conditions. Many here are embarking on "abnormal" driving conditions: in other words, corning FAST, to see what the Stinger is made of. I am guilty too.
Then the different opinions enter into it. I drove my car for ten months before getting the rear Eibach sway bar put in. I had the car up to 155 MPH (in a straight line, mind you!) and was impressed with how hunkered down it became on the humps in the highway. This was long before I got the Eibach. Once I had it installed, I tried out a couple of local sections where I had developed a habit of cornering "spiritedly". And I noticed at once that the upgraded rear sway had reduced the amount of subsequent rear end movement considerably. With less sway in the rear, less bounce, I am encouraged to try for faster, which I have been doing. I may go with a front sway bar upgrade too. Maybe. Right now, my car is satisfying me: the compromise between normal driving comfort and available performance handling seems ideal. The last thing I want is to sacrifice the comfort I currently have for a bit more performance capability. So if a front sway bar gave me a bit more buttoned down feel in corners, yet I noticed a stiffer ride, I would not be happy with that.
There are really only 2 kinds rubber (or similar) and polyurethane. Honestly I would not worry about it, you probably won't run into an issue if it's properly greased (the grease comes in the kit). My 300zx didn't start to creak for over 10 years, I had the shop grease them all, and it went away entirely, and I had replaced all of my suspension bushings, not just the sway bars.
The rubber ones are much less likely to creak, they're much more compliant than polyurethane, which are a more solid plastic. I don't know if the stock bushings will work (probably not, different diameter bar), but you can probably buy them off the shelf.
If you want the look and you're not particularly concerned with the benefits of the bushings, go for springs only, you'll probably see reduced body roll just from that and can go for the sways if you feel its necessary later.
