3.3TT Kia Stinger 3.3TT SSR Downpipes +30WHP / +26WTQ NO TUNE!!!!! Dyno Runs and Testing

[Andimal]

Any tips on the install? Haven't seen any videos. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but never worked on a car before. Going to try to put these in tomorrow if my sunset yellow gets approved by the Kia rep. Seems pretty straight forward, any gotchas?

 

[Jwolf]

What did you order @Jwolf??? Can't see you attachment. You have me salivating!

It was just these downpipes. The attachment was an emoji, but I guess the forum doesn't like my phone emoji format.

But I already have the Ark grip catback, so I'm looking forward to a real aggressive growl.

 

[StungBlueGT2]

I'm anxious to see what aftermarket primary downpipes (2.5 inch diameter) with high flow cats would yield in terms of a power increase. Probably substantial seeing as the OEM primary downpipes are 1.25 inches diameter.

I’m guessing 20-40whp with HFC and 30-50+ completely cat-less. LAP3 just got to 485whp with a cat-less DPs & full exhaust at 21psi boost. I believe they were 440-450whp range before DPs.

 

[Jonathan Lasich]

I’m guessing 20-40whp with HFC and 30-50+ completely cat-less. LAP3 just got to 485whp with a cat-less DPs & full exhaust at 21psi boost. I believe they were 440-450whp range before DPs.

OK, so being realistic:

Primary downpipes with HFC= 30 whp
Secondary downpipes with HFC= 20 whp
Free flowing valved cat-back exhaust= 10 whp with valves opened
Intake= 10 whp

That's 70 whp. Factor 15% driveline losses= 80 crank hp. (yeah, tuned for this to compensate for overboost but with no increase in boost pressure)

Now factor in a tune for increased boost (say 19-20 psi), and a gain of 175 hp from stock makes sense. That's 540 crank HP, with just simple bolt-ons and a tune, and emissions legal to boot!! FRIGGIN' AMAZING!!

Seems to me that the Kia engineers went out of their way to de-tune this motor from the factory, maybe with the intention of leaving a lot on the table so that, in the future, they could market higher performance versions with very little effort on their part to achieve higher HP numbers.

 

[STINGER]

OK, so being realistic:

Primary downpipes with HFC= 30 whp
Secondary downpipes with HFC= 20 whp
Free flowing valved cat-back exhaust= 10 whp with valves opened
Intake= 10 whp

That's 70 whp. Factor 15% driveline losses= 80 crank hp. (yeah, tuned for this to compensate for overboost but with no increase in boost pressure)

Now factor in a tune for increased boost (say 19-20 psi), and a gain of 175 hp from stock makes sense. That's 540 crank HP, with just simple bolt-ons and a tune, and emissions legal to boot!! FRIGGIN' AMAZING!!

Seems to me that the Kia engineers went out of their way to de-tune this motor from the factory, maybe with the intention of leaving a lot on the table so that, in the future, they could market higher performance versions with very little effort on their part to achieve higher HP numbers.

If you have HFC's on the primaries you wouldn't need HFC's for the secondaries.

 

[Tonkabob]

If you have HFC's on the primaries you wouldn't need HFC's for the secondaries.

Plus i dont think any one makes a HFC secondary yet.

 

[Jonathan Lasich]

If you have HFC's on the primaries you wouldn't need HFC's for the secondaries.

You do if you have to undergo emissions testing.

If they inspect the secondary downpipes and there are no cats where there are supposed to be two= automatic fail.

If they detect any software that defeats a check engine light due to lack of primary cats= automatic fail.

 

[Jonathan Lasich]

Plus i dont think any one makes a HFC secondary yet.

Bastuck (German company) makes them. Quite expensive though!

 

[StingerNYC]

Bastuck (German company) makes them. Quite expensive though!

Kia Stinger 3.3T - Ultimate Performance HFC Downpipe + Mid Pipe Combo Kit

 

[St1nger Guy]

I have the SSR Performance down pipes installed on my Stinger and if you compare the factory vs SSR it's very easy to see where all that HP comes from. The stock DP's are flattened to an oval shape almost the entire length and are a smaller diameter to start with. SSR's DP's are full round and way bigger. Big low end torque gains. I have all the bolt on's and the LAP3 at 93 setting. I don't have access to a dyno but the HP's listed above would make sense. Stock turbos aren't going to get you to 500 WHP but they will get you close. Upgraded FMIC would probably help some too.

 

[Tonkabob]

Kia Stinger 3.3T - Ultimate Performance HFC Downpipe + Mid Pipe Combo Kit

This one only has the primary HFC.

 

[Socalstinga]

there are secondary HFC being sold in Korea, fyi.... shark racing has them in Korea.

 

[ZyroXZ2]

Any tips on the install? Haven't seen any videos. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but never worked on a car before. Going to try to put these in tomorrow if my sunset yellow gets approved by the Kia rep. Seems pretty straight forward, any gotchas?

DPs are ridiculously easy, especially since the car comes with reusable gaskets. There are two bolts at the top of the DP that connect to the primary cats, and two bolts at the bottom just after the secondary cats. 4 bolts per DP.

Just make sure you have the car up high enough to work on so that you can ensure proper leverage/torque. Exhaust is one of the most finicky when it comes to nut torque thanks to all the heat expansion, etc.

 

[Hojae84]

Anyone who did this know or suggest torque specs.for these 4 bolts per dp?

 

[St1nger Guy]

I swapped the hardware at the mid pipes with grade 8 nuts and bolts and uses high temp loctite on the nuts. Basically tightened them with as much torque as I could muster. It might be a good idea to use some flat washers as well. The slots in the ssr pipes are pretty large. I reused the factory gaskets and nuts on the cats. All but one came off easy with air tools. One required a good 20 seconds of hammering with the air wrench but did come loose on eventually. I would not do this on the ground. Using a lift makes it way easier.

 

[Rango]

I swapped the hardware at the mid pipes with grade 8 nuts and bolts and uses high temp loctite on the nuts. Basically tightened them with as much torque as I could muster. It might be a good idea to use some flat washers as well. The slots in the ssr pipes are pretty large. I reused the factory gaskets and nuts on the cats. All but one came off easy with air tools. One required a good 20 seconds of hammering with the air wrench but did come loose on eventually. I would not do this on the ground. Using a lift makes it way easier.

Good idea for the bolts @St1nger Guy! Got a link or pic of the ones you purchased?

 

[Callum]

@SSR Performance, are these in stock? Taking my car back to the shop on Saturday and wouldn't mind throwing these on!

 

[Jwolf]

Got these installed yesterday! I really like the results.

My aftermarket catback got a little louder, but not a lot (you can read a more detailed review in the ARK GRiP exhaust review thread), and also actually lost a little bit of drone surprisingly enough.

I also can definitely feel a subtle power increase. I do believe in placebo, and I will not say that it is worlds different. I can say though that with 100% certainty it is a difference that can be felt for those who really know their car and how it drives.

Hope everyone else is enjoying/will enjoy this mod!

 

[Adamdan]

Got these installed yesterday! I really like the results.

My aftermarket catback got a little louder, but not a lot (you can read a more detailed review in the ARK GRiP exhaust review thread), and also actually lost a little bit of drone surprisingly enough.

I also can definitely feel a subtle power increase. I do believe in placebo, and I will not say that it is worlds different. I can say though that with 100% certainty it is a difference that can be felt for those who really know their car and how it drives.

Hope everyone else is enjoying/will enjoy this mod!

Great review, I have downpipes and are looking at cat backs. If you could make some videos would be great to see it in action.

 

[Hojae84]

I swapped the hardware at the mid pipes with grade 8 nuts and bolts and uses high temp loctite on the nuts. Basically tightened them with as much torque as I could muster. It might be a good idea to use some flat washers as well. The slots in the ssr pipes are pretty large. I reused the factory gaskets and nuts on the cats. All but one came off easy with air tools. One required a good 20 seconds of hammering with the air wrench but did come loose on eventually. I would not do this on the ground. Using a lift makes it way easier.

+1
argh
i have no air tools and just tried doing this on the ground
pretty bummed i couldn't get enough leverage on the rear bolts to break them loose.
front 4 managed to get out with just a rachet. but rear no go couldn't get enough leverage or space for a breaker bar

will need to bring to shop they will prob get done < 30 mins
edit: screw it just bought a high torque impact wrench online
should make rear bolts a breeze
will get r done