Just a little update, delearship found hammer marks on the knuckle both front left and right. It's only been aligned at the delearship once and twice at Big Brand Tire. I doubt Big Brand did it because it was them that found out my from left caster and camber.
I hit my lowers with a big hammer to get the lower joints out when installing new springs and didn't have any alignment issues. And I beat the snot out of them to get them off.
Looks like the brake caliper bolts have been off recently too, they would have to come out to get some of those hammer marks by caliper bolt.
At the moment, I'm assuming the dealership is still trying to solve the main root of the problem. I have not added any mods in the ten months I've owned the car. My alignment history goes big brand tires, delearship, and big brand tires lol. My car has been at the delearship since Friday.
It's normal practice to hit the ball joint coupling to break it loose when replacing or removing ball joints. Better than tearing the boot with a pickle fork. That normally doesn't hurt anything and certainly wouldn't change alignment.
However, the question is why. If the struts/springs are original, then WTF was being replaced?
It's normal practice to hit the ball joint coupling to break it loose when replacing or removing ball joints. Better than tearing the boot with a pickle fork. That normally doesn't hurt anything and certainly wouldn't change alignment.
However, the question is why. If the struts/springs are original, then WTF was being replaced?
That's good to know, this is my first performance based vehicle. I'm taking the time to take care of it and learn the vehicle as I move along. I have no clue if the previous owner lowered/modded it. Carfax report is clean and service was done regularly. The first owner got rid of it at nearly 11k miles. I've put about 19k since owning it.
Update. Delearship diagnosis suspects some type of impact probably caused a bent strut. They are recommending replace both struts, control arms, and knuckles. I can source the parts through their parts department website. Does anyone here know if our ECS needs to reset when replacing the struts? My stinger has electronic controlled suspension so I'm not sure if it completely needs to get done through the delear.
I dont think the ECS needs to be reset, I believe when you plug them in they go to the dampening position based on what drive mode you select when you drive the car. If they throw a code on first start up the code should reset itself within a few cycles of drive modes.
That's promising to hear, wonder if anyone else can confirm this. Now it's just a matter of what shops are honest and can do the work correctly. Delearship wanted nearly $7k parts and labor. The parts can be sourced through THEIR parts department website for nearly half of what they're asking for parts!
According to the schematic the struts only contain solenoids that control amount of dampening, so as long as they are good I wouldnt think they need a system reset, maybe it would if you replaced a body sensor....but Im only speculating. Maybe someone who put on coilovers with the electronic bypasses can comment more. Here is the schematic.
The delear did put the wiring harness for the struts on the quote. Those would be replaced when doing the struts. I'm assuming that would just be plug n play but I'm not very mechanically inclined, just starting to learn.
After further research, the wiring harness appears to be a wheel speed sensor. The website where you got that diagram also has instructions on how to take it off properly
It's normal practice to hit the ball joint coupling to break it loose when replacing or removing ball joints. Better than tearing the boot with a pickle fork. That normally doesn't hurt anything and certainly wouldn't change alignment.
However, the question is why. If the struts/springs are original, then WTF was being replaced?
Just a note on using a hammer to pop the tapered seat for ball joints. A good practise is to have a second hammer of similar weight on the other side of the control arm where the ball joint is located. By doing this, the risk of bending/distorting the control arm from hitting it with a hammer Is minimized. The second hammer absorbs the blow while allowing the control arm to temporaly distort enough to pop the ball joint. This came from my dad who was a front end mechanic for eight years.
I actually clarified that with the dealership. At one point kia stopped making the strut assembly as one piece with the wiring harness. Kia now sells them as individual pieces. Aka you need to buy the strut, strut mount, spring, and wiring harness a la carte.
Just an update for anyone, I got the front left strut and control arms replaced. Caster is now within spec! Now just have to fix camber, I was recommended to buy the knuckle. Here's a new alignment sheet.
Just an update for anyone, I got the front left strut and control arms replaced. Caster is now within spec! Now just have to fix camber, I was recommended to buy the knuckle. Here's a new alignment sheet.
Last update for y'all! Had the front driver's steering knuckle replaced today. Everything is now in spec! It's such a pleasure to drive and more enjoyable now!!
