3.3TT Turbo Wastegate Actuator Predicament

What to do

  • Cough up $5k and have dealership fix it

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Find alternative shop to fix

    Votes: 4 100.0%

  • Total voters
    4

propel

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Hey all,

So I own a 2018 GT2 stinger with 40k miles and I recently got a check engine light and brought it to the dealership and had to get a PCB block replaced apparently caused by “corrosion” for the fuse box which costed me $1300. Now its been replaced and the only code still remaining is P256200, meaning the right side wastegate actuator isn’t running the correct voltage (0.4 vs 1.4 minimum). The dealership has been very helpful and good to me on pricing giving me a lot of discounts and disclosing a lot of information for other issues I had (Wheel bearing replacement, rotors, pads, other interior panel replacements) so I don’t see them as the type to try and scam or try and get money out of me but this is putting me in a tough spot.

They say the only thing they can do to fix it is replace the right side turbo entirely, since the actuator is not sold separately and even if it were, they claim in order to fix it they have to drop the entire engine out, costing me over 20 hours of labor(~$3000), not to mention the cost of the turbo itself, plus other stuff needed to be replaced along with it such as seals, etc ($2000).

I can either cough it up and get it fixed this way or go to another shop that’s willing to take out the actuator/solenoid without taking the entire engine out, which ironically I have had done before at a shop that I no longer trust but I know it’s possible. The dealership refuses to take it out and won’t use a OEM aftermarket part, but I know a shop that will, just not sure about pricing and how reliable it will be. I do know that it will be significantly cheaper, just don’t know if it will fix it.

I just can’t believe how unreliable this car has been and how much money it’s costed me, since I’m out of warranty. I’ve been trying to sell it for a few months now but these issues just keep coming up and it’s starting to become ridiculous.

Thoughts?
 
How is it, that you are out of warranty?
 
Car was in a wreck and has rebuilt title but engine was fine
I see. Saying, don't get involved with wrecked cars is too late now. Get the turbo replaced at independent shop. Make sure they can do it without removing the engine.
 
Hey all,

So I own a 2018 GT2 stinger with 40k miles and I recently got a check engine light and brought it to the dealership and had to get a PCB block replaced apparently caused by “corrosion” for the fuse box which costed me $1300. Now its been replaced and the only code still remaining is P256200, meaning the right side wastegate actuator isn’t running the correct voltage (0.4 vs 1.4 minimum). The dealership has been very helpful and good to me on pricing giving me a lot of discounts and disclosing a lot of information for other issues I had (Wheel bearing replacement, rotors, pads, other interior panel replacements) so I don’t see them as the type to try and scam or try and get money out of me but this is putting me in a tough spot.

They say the only thing they can do to fix it is replace the right side turbo entirely, since the actuator is not sold separately and even if it were, they claim in order to fix it they have to drop the entire engine out, costing me over 20 hours of labor(~$3000), not to mention the cost of the turbo itself, plus other stuff needed to be replaced along with it such as seals, etc ($2000).

I can either cough it up and get it fixed this way or go to another shop that’s willing to take out the actuator/solenoid without taking the entire engine out, which ironically I have had done before at a shop that I no longer trust but I know it’s possible. The dealership refuses to take it out and won’t use a OEM aftermarket part, but I know a shop that will, just not sure about pricing and how reliable it will be. I do know that it will be significantly cheaper, just don’t know if it will fix it.

I just can’t believe how unreliable this car has been and how much money it’s costed me, since I’m out of warranty. I’ve been trying to sell it for a few months now but these issues just keep coming up and it’s starting to become ridiculous.

Thoughts?
 
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What end up happening with your car? I am having the same issue. My car was also in a wreck. I actually was able to change the actuator myself without dropping the motor and the dealer sold me the actuator.
 
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