Torque for aftermarket wheels

WildcatStinger

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Hey y'all,
I just installed some Vors TR4 20" wheels on my Stinger. It is an alloy wheel. Do I still use the standard 79-94 lbs of torque?
I noticed some vibration in the steering wheel when I hit 75 on the highway yesterday, but the car was cold and sat at the airport in freezing Temps (low spots, cold tires). It improved as I drove, but also noticed tire pressure was only 31 on start and only got as high as 35 all around. I'm thinking all those factors made for a less than smooth ride initially? I also only torqued to 65 when I put them on, thinking that was a Vors recommendation, but I think that was bad info. Thanks for any help!
Ryan
 
yup...too low. I hand torque to 100-110, with an actual quality torque wrench using the crisscross pattern.
I dont trust impact torque bars at all. Specs call for 94 but I have always used my values and they arent excessive imho
 
Hey y'all,
I just installed some Vors TR4 20" wheels on my Stinger. It is an alloy wheel. Do I still use the standard 79-94 lbs of torque?
I noticed some vibration in the steering wheel when I hit 75 on the highway yesterday, but the car was cold and sat at the airport in freezing Temps (low spots, cold tires). It improved as I drove, but also noticed tire pressure was only 31 on start and only got as high as 35 all around. I'm thinking all those factors made for a less than smooth ride initially? I also only torqued to 65 when I put them on, thinking that was a Vors recommendation, but I think that was bad info. Thanks for any help!
Ryan
Stick to the OEM torque specs. Unless you have a know accurate torque wrench, set it towards the higher 1/2 of the range.
 
I hand torque to 95 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern for both my summer and aftermarket winter alloy rims. I also tighten in 3 steps. First step is snug up the wheels, second step is to about 50% of torque and final step is 95 ft-lbs. it is also VERY important that the lug nut is actually turning when the final torque value is reached.
 
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