RaceChip Product Selection (S, RS or GTS)

Crisis

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Hi everyone. I was about to just post this as a response to one of the related threads, but my questions seem to span a few of the thread topics, so I figured I’d just start a new one. So apologies for that, but I’m also hoping for answers prior to the end of RaceChip’s Black Friday sale, provided that it is applicable to Canadian customers.

I've spent a couple of hours looking through most of the threads in the RaceChip Support category as well as some time on the RaceChip sales website. One thing that I've noticed is that RaceChip appears to have renamed their products. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but where they once offered RS, GTS and GTS Black, their current offerings are the S, RS and GTS. I believe these are still the same products with new names and will continue my discussions on that basis. Oddly enough, their website banner about the Black Friday sale says that’s it’s applicable to GTS & GTS Black only. C’mon guys, - that’s just confusing as hell…

While there are additional features & better warranty and support for the more expensive products, the gist of the differences seems to be that the S provides 5 mapping options, the RS provides 6 and the GTS provides 7. My understanding is that levels 1-3 can be considered "Efficiency" (to use the RaceChip App's designations), 4-5 would be considered "Sport" and 6-7 are "Race". The responses from RaceChip in many threads on this forum clearly state that levels 6 & 7 should only be used with gasoline of 93+ octane.

On their website, RaceChip is quoting HP & TQ gains as follows:
  • S - 34 HP & 74 lb-ft
  • RS - 44 HP & 111 lb-ft
  • GTS - 57 HP & 133 lb-ft
I'm looking for more power on the street, but have no plans to race my car on a track. As well, availability of fuel with greater than 91 octane here is so rare as to be virtually non-existent. In writing this post, I may well have answered my own question, but here it goes anyways.

If I'm not going be using fuel of greater than 91 octane, is there any performance advantage to be gained by purchasing either the RS or the GTS over the base S version of the device?

I'd assume that mapping level 5 would provide similar performance regardless of whether it is achieved using the S, RS or GTS model.

Also, I’ve read such a variety of opinions of the need to change spark plugs, that I don’t really know where to start, so, I’ll simply ask this: If using 91 octane fuel and mapping level 5 is there any need to replace the stock plugs? Edit: I do see that RaceChip now has a banner at the top of their Stinger site reading ” For this engine, we recommend to use performance aftermarket spark plugs in combination with our chip tuning.”

One other item. There is an app available for use with the RS & GTS products. It appears that the app limits you to just the 3 settings as discussed previously, whereas you have the ability to select between 5-7 levels if you are physically changing the setting on the device under the hood. Am I correct in understanding that if you have the app turned on, you cannot manually adjust the setting under the hood? To allow manual adjustment, is it as simple as turning the app off, or is it always on and would have to delete the app in order to revert to manual adjustment?

Thanks in advance for any & all responses.
 
Replace your plugs.. please.
 
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Well, at least there's finally a couple of replies. Thanks for the comment on the plugs, Diablo.
Anyone else have any knowledge or opinions to share on the value of RS or GTS over the S if just running 91 octane fuel?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Take the HP and TQ gains with a grain of salt. I don't believe they have released actual dyno charts from real runs from a Stinger They do have actual results from other cars on their facebook page.

I have a GTS Black with App for a 2.0 but the operation will be the same for the 3.3. You can still change the settings on the race chip in your engine bay anytime even if using the app. You only need to start the app if you want to make any changes, if you don't want to make a change then you don't need the app running. It takes a few seconds for the app to open and then connect, so you could actually pop your hood and get to your race chip in about the same amount of time, so the only advantage is to be able to make changes on the fly - which is convenient when you first get it so you can make changes to try to feel the differences. However, after driving for a while you will probably just be like me and set it and forget it.

I use 93 Octane, plus having the 2.0 I need all the help I can get, so I leave it on the highest setting all the time.

Unless they made any changes you don't have a 0,1,2,3,... settings option. It's "efficiency", "sport", and "race" so only 3 three settings (well you do have "off" so that makes 4 options total). That's the same if you're using the key pad directly on the race chip or using the app. If you want to fine tune the settings for each to be a 1 or 2, or a 5 or 6 you have to send in a request and they will push out an update to your app that you can upload to your chip. I assume there would be a way to update with a direct cable if your race chip doesn't have the Bluetooth module but I don't recall since I've never needed it.

I sent in a request for a more aggressive tune for using 93 octane only and I can feel the difference. It's probably not advisable but I've just left it in race mode on the aggressive tune for the past few months and it's been fine. I really think having other options are pointless, just need on and off.

However that being said, I took the chip off a few days ago to bring it in for regular service. My car is part of the ECU recall so I have to wait a few days for the parts so they gave me my car back while waiting so I'm driving without the chip. The first day it felt weaker, but the next day felt fine. After a few days I got used to it and now I'm thinking I don't really need the Race chip. I drive in bumper to bumper traffic 98% of the time and most of the time I'm just listening to radio and trying to avoid idiot drivers and the car gets up and goes enough that it doesn't make me want for more power.

I'm also lazy, therefore I chose the Race Chip as apposed to the JB4 with a gazillion of add on's and tuning options, and it's a PIA to remove the chip and reinstall every time I go to the dealer, so that's another reason I may just not use it again.
 
Take the HP and TQ gains with a grain of salt. I don't believe they have released actual dyno charts from real runs from a Stinger They do have actual results from other cars on their facebook page.

I have a GTS Black with App for a 2.0 but the operation will be the same for the 3.3. You can still change the settings on the race chip in your engine bay anytime even if using the app. You only need to start the app if you want to make any changes, if you don't want to make a change then you don't need the app running. It takes a few seconds for the app to open and then connect, so you could actually pop your hood and get to your race chip in about the same amount of time, so the only advantage is to be able to make changes on the fly - which is convenient when you first get it so you can make changes to try to feel the differences. However, after driving for a while you will probably just be like me and set it and forget it.
thx for the feedback man.
 
thx for the feedback man.
I did also lots of reading and research, with regards to both the Octane levels, and Plug issues as I have the 3.3 turbo Stinger , I have only the RS chip with the App , but after seeing many comments about possible issues ,,
I decided to buy the colder Denso Plugs and had them gapped at .024 ,, and not taking chances with gas here as it is winter now ,, I use Lucus Octane Booster which brings the Octane level up 3 full points ,giving approximately 97 Octane for 25 gallons and I did a muffler delete with only straight pipes . The results is just this simple ,, noisy car that goes like Hell, but the things is ,many people myself included were worried about the Plugs cracking with the extra boost being applied in race mode ,, So after all I was not going to risk such a nice car by taking short cuts ..
Many on here have lots of knowledge that we all can pull from ,thus learning as we go what not to take chances with ,, and RC has stated now, that it may benefit a higher level of engine safety by either re gapping or replacing with colder plugs just to be on the safe side ! Just my thought s on this matter :)
 
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