3.3TT Performance issues post modifications

Houstinger1

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Guys, I am having some issues with my 2018 GT2 AWD, and I need some help. This is going to be a little bit long because of all the changes, issues, and observations. Apologies in advanced.

First week I got the car, I got a K&N intake. Not long after, I got the JB4 with fuel wires used and hooked it up. No issues there and has been running great on Map2 with 93 octane. Fast forward about a year, and I got a catback installed. So far, so good. Until I blew not 1 but 2 plugs. I bought some replacements, gapped them at 0.26, and had them installed.

After doing a little looking around, I found a place not too far from me that sells e85. Seeing as I had the JB4, I decided to mix a little in with a tank of 93. So the next time I needed some gas, I stopped by this station, put in 5 gallons of E85, and then the rest 93 octane. I put it in map 3 and… meh? Not much of a difference. I talked to Will who thought I needed to test the ethanol. So I got a Fuel It sensor and hooked it up to the JB4. The install was not super successful initially; I installed the Fuel It sensor backwards. After I figured it out and swapped it around (and with the help of Terry on the forums with the correct pin placement) I was able to confirm that the JB4 and the Fuel IT sensor were seeing the same ethanol content, e30. So I hadn’t mixed it incorrectly. Again, tried map 3 and was underwhelmed.

Will suggested I get a draggy to help provide quantifiable performance data while tuning. So I did. And the results were not impressive. 0-60 in 5.4 in map 0, 5.3 in map2 & 3. So I switched back to 93 octane, and the car felt better. Did another tank of e30 and map3, and this time really pushed it. After 60mph, the car would flutter and the JB4 would fail to map 0 with the error “fuel pressure.” Sent Terry the logs and did some back and forth runs with his input. He had me lean the car out as much as he felt comfortable. No real change. Terry’s comment was that some cars tend to not like going over 20psi, and that mine appeared to be one of them.

Given that the JB4 was reporting a fuel issue and since I am in Houston, I went directly to Spool and Eurocharged to get the HPFP and LPFP pumps installed. Since I am also in Houston and it is frequently 95-100 degrees, I also got a full WMI setup from Burger. I had the shop install the WMI and the fuel pumps at the same time. I gave them an ipad where I loaded the JB4 app on to it so they could test and tune with it while I kept my phone with me. With more fuel pressure, more fuel, and a JB4 to add more boost, I was set!

Or so I thought. Once I got the car home, it smelled of gas. Spool said it could be a KPFP gasket and that they would tow it in. ok cool. After that was fixed up, I was driving it home, and the performance just kept getting worse and worse and worse. I never saw any real gains from the WMI or the fuel system upgrades. We are talking, after the 30 minute drive home, it was driving like my grand mothers 84 crown Victoria. The logs of the worse runs were screaming about high IAT’s, close to 130. Which was odd since I had a WMI setup and was running 50/50 additive. It should be cooler, right? Additionally, the HPFP and fuel trim corrections were there. Tried map 7, map 6 with some of Terry’s previous suggestions. Increasingly worse performance. Once almost home, I was running mainly in map 0 because the JB4 kept safety closing (if that’s the right term). With map 0, taking the JB4 out of the equation, it was still running like poo.

So I drove it back to Eurocharged the next day. We got the ipad out so he could see while I drove. LOTS of super rich AFR, fuel trims, and throttle closures. HARD throttle closures. When it wasn’t doing that, it was still fluttering some. We tried map 2, map 3, map 7, map 6. Still pig rich at like 10:1. The next morning, I drove it home, and the same thing. After I let it sit and the IAT’s dropped, it was better, but still far worse than stock. Closer and closer to home, it got bad worse again, so I set the WMI threshold to 23 psi to essentially disable it, returning the car to stock as much as possible. Next day, same thing, but this time the car finally through a code. P0049. I cleared the code, but I am afraid to drive it for fear of further damaging the engine. The smell of gasoline has returned, but very faint and only when the car is on. Eurocharge suspects it could be a bad injector due to the fuel smell.

At this point, I am at a loss. I do not think anyone’s advice or actions (other than my own) damaged my car, and that the cumulative set of changes I have done, instead of helping, has only exacerbated an underlying mechanical issue. What that is, I am at a loss. What to do, I don’t know. I am leaning towards taking it into a dealer asking for mercy. I do not want to revert to stock, I don’t want to give up, but I don’t know where to go at this point. I have attached the last set of logs with it car running on map 0. Has a few pulls in one combined log. I do have several others from the week prior if anyone thinks that can help.

As an aside, prior to my first tank of e30, my car was the test car for Spool for their HPFP to see if it would work on our cars. As payment, they gave me some dyno pulls. With my AWD GT2, intakes, the JB4, map 2, 93 octane 81F, I got 377HP and 427HP. Fairly standard and unremarkable. Should I have been higher? Have I had an underperforming engine that I have pushed too far?

To anyone that finished this, thank you for reading. Any help is appreciated.
 

Attachments

You're at the edge of bolt-ons and getting into the world of actual custom work. So some things will work, some things won't.
Make sure the WMI is actually spraying. My buddy's system had a tendency to turn itself off. (unrelated product)
If it was my car, I would go back to map 2, disable WMI. Leave the hardware bolted on, make sure the car is performing well. Then start introducing changes one by one.

Don't bother comparing your numbers with anyone else's unless you're at a strip with some sticky tires. All one can really use is their own performance numbers compared back-to-back.

Tracing the gas smell should be pretty straight forward - just start sniffing around!! HPFPs are finicky, so there could easily be leaks there. One thing that always interested me is the OEMs always say to replace the high pressure tube(s) any time they are disconnected. Apparently they don't trust the flare to seal more than once.

You may just be at the edge of the piggyback method for your car. An ECU tune might squeeze out a little more, but sooner or later we hit limits. 20 PSI is *a hell of a lot*, so it's pretty impressive to me that a piston hasn't melted. The ECU has a lot of fail-safes that Tork has been battling when you hit the edge. The fuel system wasn't sized for 20+ PSI.

You're also at the point where you probably need to really dig in with your own hands - or just hand the car entirely over to the shop and see how far they can get.


IMO, the e30(+wmi) is a hack that we're just super lucky works at least some of the time. A mild tweak of boost pressure is well within the capabilities of a stock ECU tune. Doing much more than that really requires in-depth hacking to do it well.
 
@Houstinger1 Any updates? I have been excited about the Spool fueling upgrades but your post is obviously concerning. Would love to hear how things turned out. Thanks.
 
______________________________
Guys, I am having some issues with my 2018 GT2 AWD, and I need some help. This is going to be a little bit long because of all the changes, issues, and observations. Apologies in advanced.

First week I got the car, I got a K&N intake. Not long after, I got the JB4 with fuel wires used and hooked it up. No issues there and has been running great on Map2 with 93 octane. Fast forward about a year, and I got a catback installed. So far, so good. Until I blew not 1 but 2 plugs. I bought some replacements, gapped them at 0.26, and had them installed.

After doing a little looking around, I found a place not too far from me that sells e85. Seeing as I had the JB4, I decided to mix a little in with a tank of 93. So the next time I needed some gas, I stopped by this station, put in 5 gallons of E85, and then the rest 93 octane. I put it in map 3 and… meh? Not much of a difference. I talked to Will who thought I needed to test the ethanol. So I got a Fuel It sensor and hooked it up to the JB4. The install was not super successful initially; I installed the Fuel It sensor backwards. After I figured it out and swapped it around (and with the help of Terry on the forums with the correct pin placement) I was able to confirm that the JB4 and the Fuel IT sensor were seeing the same ethanol content, e30. So I hadn’t mixed it incorrectly. Again, tried map 3 and was underwhelmed.

Will suggested I get a draggy to help provide quantifiable performance data while tuning. So I did. And the results were not impressive. 0-60 in 5.4 in map 0, 5.3 in map2 & 3. So I switched back to 93 octane, and the car felt better. Did another tank of e30 and map3, and this time really pushed it. After 60mph, the car would flutter and the JB4 would fail to map 0 with the error “fuel pressure.” Sent Terry the logs and did some back and forth runs with his input. He had me lean the car out as much as he felt comfortable. No real change. Terry’s comment was that some cars tend to not like going over 20psi, and that mine appeared to be one of them.

Given that the JB4 was reporting a fuel issue and since I am in Houston, I went directly to Spool and Eurocharged to get the HPFP and LPFP pumps installed. Since I am also in Houston and it is frequently 95-100 degrees, I also got a full WMI setup from Burger. I had the shop install the WMI and the fuel pumps at the same time. I gave them an ipad where I loaded the JB4 app on to it so they could test and tune with it while I kept my phone with me. With more fuel pressure, more fuel, and a JB4 to add more boost, I was set!

Or so I thought. Once I got the car home, it smelled of gas. Spool said it could be a KPFP gasket and that they would tow it in. ok cool. After that was fixed up, I was driving it home, and the performance just kept getting worse and worse and worse. I never saw any real gains from the WMI or the fuel system upgrades. We are talking, after the 30 minute drive home, it was driving like my grand mothers 84 crown Victoria. The logs of the worse runs were screaming about high IAT’s, close to 130. Which was odd since I had a WMI setup and was running 50/50 additive. It should be cooler, right? Additionally, the HPFP and fuel trim corrections were there. Tried map 7, map 6 with some of Terry’s previous suggestions. Increasingly worse performance. Once almost home, I was running mainly in map 0 because the JB4 kept safety closing (if that’s the right term). With map 0, taking the JB4 out of the equation, it was still running like poo.

So I drove it back to Eurocharged the next day. We got the ipad out so he could see while I drove. LOTS of super rich AFR, fuel trims, and throttle closures. HARD throttle closures. When it wasn’t doing that, it was still fluttering some. We tried map 2, map 3, map 7, map 6. Still pig rich at like 10:1. The next morning, I drove it home, and the same thing. After I let it sit and the IAT’s dropped, it was better, but still far worse than stock. Closer and closer to home, it got bad worse again, so I set the WMI threshold to 23 psi to essentially disable it, returning the car to stock as much as possible. Next day, same thing, but this time the car finally through a code. P0049. I cleared the code, but I am afraid to drive it for fear of further damaging the engine. The smell of gasoline has returned, but very faint and only when the car is on. Eurocharge suspects it could be a bad injector due to the fuel smell.

At this point, I am at a loss. I do not think anyone’s advice or actions (other than my own) damaged my car, and that the cumulative set of changes I have done, instead of helping, has only exacerbated an underlying mechanical issue. What that is, I am at a loss. What to do, I don’t know. I am leaning towards taking it into a dealer asking for mercy. I do not want to revert to stock, I don’t want to give up, but I don’t know where to go at this point. I have attached the last set of logs with it car running on map 0. Has a few pulls in one combined log. I do have several others from the week prior if anyone thinks that can help.

As an aside, prior to my first tank of e30, my car was the test car for Spool for their HPFP to see if it would work on our cars. As payment, they gave me some dyno pulls. With my AWD GT2, intakes, the JB4, map 2, 93 octane 81F, I got 377HP and 427HP. Fairly standard and unremarkable. Should I have been higher? Have I had an underperforming engine that I have pushed too far?

To anyone that finished this, thank you for reading. Any help is appreciated.
Wow what an ordeal. Your ability to maintaining composure is impressive :thumbup:. Most of us gap between .022 - .024, Burger recommends .022. Why did you choose to go .026?
I also am curious to an update. Hope it’s working out for you. Cheers.
 
Sounds like your injectors might be your limiting factor. What duty are the injectors running at? It should Max out at around 85% at most.

You may need to go to larger injectors.

Also, have a performance shop check your compression and also have them use a scope to see if the blown sparks plugs did any damage internally.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
@Houstinger1 Any updates? I have been excited about the Spool fueling upgrades but your post is obviously concerning. Would love to hear how things turned out. Thanks.

So some updates. As I suspected, there were and are multiple issues at play here. 1st, the BMS quick WMI adapter appears to not be making a good seal. Even with WMI off and disconnected and the JB4 in map0, performance was hot garbage. Reason being there was an air leak at the MAP sensor. Removing that greatly improved things. Still not perfect, but much better.

I sent another set of logs over to Terry to review. He really didn’t see anything that indicated anything major And was suggesting more tweaks than anything else. I did go ahead and buy the latest master chip for the JB4 just in case. No real change there.

After my latest trip out to Eurocharged, I hadn’t smelled fuel again until this last fill up. My wife was in the car with me some 10-15 minutes after we got gas and was doing all non aggressive highway driving when we suddenly smelled it strongly. After a few minutes it went away. I did not smell it under the hood, so I don’t believe it is the HPFP or an injector. My gut tells me there is something wrong with the LPFP or it’s install. This would explain a lot, especially since we can’t get readings from the LPFP like we can the HPFP.

One of the reasons it has taken so long is that on top of working from home constantly, my daughter got COVID, quarantined for 2 weeks away from home, then after 2 weeks brought back with her to our house. Also, My wife was driving my car for a bit and after the tank of E30 ran out she put in 87 octane. Les sigh.

So, after that 87 ran out, I put just plain ole 93 in, no ethanol, no WMI, and decided to do some pulls. Sure enough, there were still the throttle closures although not nearly as harsh, and HPFP issues, same as before the upgrade. I will likely be taking it in to the dealer to look at as soon as I can get him to call me back. Maybe they can confirm that it is LPFP or possibly busted injector, although I would suspect I would see one particular cylinder looking out of sync with the others, and I do not.
 
Also, while still running a tank of E30, I got another P049 code. I also had the navigation system talk to me telling me there was an engine control unit issue and asked me if I wanted it to make a service appointment and send in data. I thought that was most impressive. The CEL did clear once stopped running E30.
 
Wow what an ordeal. Your ability to maintaining composure is impressive :thumbup:. Most of us gap between .022 - .024, Burger recommends .022. Why did you choose to go .026?
I also am curious to an update. Hope it’s working out for you. Cheers.
Good question. At the time, there was still some question about which gap to really use. Tork strongly believes .028 is where it’s at for this car. HKS sells their plugs gapped to that as well. JB4 at the time said 0.024 only to come back later and say 0.022. In other words, I never got the feeling that there was a universal consensus on plug gap. This is not to say I am not open to the idea that there are issues with my plugs and their gap. Maybe it’s not the best spark and I might want to look at shortening the gap or running cooler plugs? I honestly don’t know what imperfect plugs would look like and how to identify it. A blown plug ( which I did have 2 of shortly after I installed the JB4) I know what that feels like. This isn’t quite that. the idle is smooth, albeit with a little longer start time than I expect.
 
Welp, I woke up this morning after spending the night at my parents house after almost 2 weeks of no AC in 90 degree Houston. As I was pulling out of the driveway, the car was waiting a beat after I gave it gas before it accelerated. Once I got it to a road and was able to give it gas, I was getting virtually nothing out of it. Immediate limp mode. No CEL, though, just a near death experience trying to get on one of the busiest interstates in the country in rush hour without any boost and my 2 year old in the back seat. Suffice it to say, my car is toast.

On the way home, I called a mod friendly dealer in town and spoke to the service manager. Essentially he told me that it will be up to Kia corporate as to whether or not they give me a partial or total warranty claim. He advised me to return it to stock as much as possible except for the CAI and the catback. He explained that the decision to warranty was up to the regional parts manager based on the write up by the dealer and the readings they get from the ECU. So all that debate about Kia denying a claim based on having a piggyback, well we are about to find out for sure. So buckle up! (I feel like a Fox Network Wildest Animals part 7 commercial cliffhanger) My appointment is for Wednesday of next week, so I will have an update after that, likely next Friday.

2020 can officially suck it.
 
Welp, I woke up this morning after spending the night at my parents house after almost 2 weeks of no AC in 90 degree Houston. As I was pulling out of the driveway, the car was waiting a beat after I gave it gas before it accelerated. Once I got it to a road and was able to give it gas, I was getting virtually nothing out of it. Immediate limp mode. No CEL, though, just a near death experience trying to get on one of the busiest interstates in the country in rush hour without any boost and my 2 year old in the back seat. Suffice it to say, my car is toast.

On the way home, I called a mod friendly dealer in town and spoke to the service manager. Essentially he told me that it will be up to Kia corporate as to whether or not they give me a partial or total warranty claim. He advised me to return it to stock as much as possible except for the CAI and the catback. He explained that the decision to warranty was up to the regional parts manager based on the write up by the dealer and the readings they get from the ECU. So all that debate about Kia denying a claim based on having a piggyback, well we are about to find out for sure. So buckle up! (I feel like a Fox Network Wildest Animals part 7 commercial cliffhanger) My appointment is for Wednesday of next week, so I will have an update after that, likely next Friday.

2020 can officially suck it.
Feel for you man. You’re taking it well, on the outside at least. Keeps us posted. Cheers
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Please let us know the outcome!

Wishing you the best...
 
Update. I took it into the mod friendly dealer first thing this morning. Around lunch the service manager called me and said that he had some news for me.... He can't find anything wrong with it. It seems to be driving just fine. I was pretty floored by this. He said they plugged it up and was not seeing anything out of the ordinary. I mentioned the possibility of a bad injector to account for the gas smell. He said the injector numbers all showed good. He didn't do a full tear down of the car, but to say that he can't find anything wrong has me more than discouraged. I reminded him of all the idiosyncrasies it has given me, the limp mode twice in 2 weeks when starting, the P049 codes multiple times, the CEL's, etc. He said the waste gates are opening and closing just fine, no other issues. He is going to let it cool down and look at it in the morning and see what he sees. I told him to check the LPFP and fuel system. What else could I direct him to look at? I am debating sending him my JB4 logs where it shows the throttle cuts, the fuel system crashes, the HPFP low pressure, stuff that he just isn't seeing. I dunno....
 
Update. I took it into the mod friendly dealer first thing this morning. Around lunch the service manager called me and said that he had some news for me.... He can't find anything wrong with it. It seems to be driving just fine. I was pretty floored by this. He said they plugged it up and was not seeing anything out of the ordinary. I mentioned the possibility of a bad injector to account for the gas smell. He said the injector numbers all showed good. He didn't do a full tear down of the car, but to say that he can't find anything wrong has me more than discouraged. I reminded him of all the idiosyncrasies it has given me, the limp mode twice in 2 weeks when starting, the P049 codes multiple times, the CEL's, etc. He said the waste gates are opening and closing just fine, no other issues. He is going to let it cool down and look at it in the morning and see what he sees. I told him to check the LPFP and fuel system. What else could I direct him to look at? I am debating sending him my JB4 logs where it shows the throttle cuts, the fuel system crashes, the HPFP low pressure, stuff that he just isn't seeing. I dunno....
Ya that’s a tough one. Personal I would be leery of showing them the logs. Kinda like giving them an arrow for their quiver to shoot you with. :whistle: Or show it but don’t give it. If it did it on map 0 (or whatever the stock map is) show that log to them you can say the JB4 is simply a log tool. I don’t know just thinking out loud. Good luck and keep us posted. Cheers
 
anything new on this? this shit scares me! LOL
 
After 3 days at the dealer, he said he couldn't find anything wrong. He did see the fuel pressure drop, but he said it was within acceptable parameters. He said they tested the wastegates, and they were actuating perfectly. Turbos looked good, etc. I did take a leap and send him some JB4 logs. I am not sure if he looked at them or if he knew how to look at them. I asked him if it was possible I have a bad ECU. He shrugged and said maybe, but that what I really needed was to take it to a tuner and have them custom make a tune for the car. After a week or so of it being home, I went and put the JB4 back on. Pulls great, although I seemed to have misplaced my draggy so I cannot provide any imperical data to backup my butt dyno claims. The only thing I did notice as soon as I put the JB4 on was that the start was a little slower and the idle just a touch rougher. Could be the JB4, but as Terry did mention in another post, the ignition system in this car is touchy at best, hence the fluidic nature of plug gap requirements. I did drop the car off at Spool so they could work on it for a month developing an ethanol tune for it as well as install the FMIC and cat deletes. No promises that they will sell it, although I believe that is their intent.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
hmm. so I guess it's good that it's running ok again. good luck and keep us posted on developments. I'm not even close to an expert in these matters but I am interested in learning from others' trials. Happy with just the jb4 intakes and exhaust at this point.
 
______________________________
After 3 days at the dealer, he said he couldn't find anything wrong. He did see the fuel pressure drop, but he said it was within acceptable parameters. He said they tested the wastegates, and they were actuating perfectly. Turbos looked good, etc. I did take a leap and send him some JB4 logs. I am not sure if he looked at them or if he knew how to look at them. I asked him if it was possible I have a bad ECU. He shrugged and said maybe, but that what I really needed was to take it to a tuner and have them custom make a tune for the car. After a week or so of it being home, I went and put the JB4 back on. Pulls great, although I seemed to have misplaced my draggy so I cannot provide any imperical data to backup my butt dyno claims. The only thing I did notice as soon as I put the JB4 on was that the start was a little slower and the idle just a touch rougher. Could be the JB4, but as Terry did mention in another post, the ignition system in this car is touchy at best, hence the fluidic nature of plug gap requirements. I did drop the car off at Spool so they could work on it for a month developing an ethanol tune for it as well as install the FMIC and cat deletes. No promises that they will sell it, although I believe that is their intent.
Hey, I'm out of Houston as well. Could you let me know which dealer you took it to? Just for my future reference, in case I need to bring it in. Also, did you install the JB4 yourself, or had a shop do it?
 
Wanted to give what I hope is the final update on my performance issues post upgrades. While my car is getting everything put back on, the tuner also kept noticing the same issues. On top of that, he also saw that just after a few dyno pulls, the tank was down pretty low. So he put it on the rack and looked under the car. Apparently, once upon a time, I had bottomed out, likely exiting my previous home. In so doing, it had pinched the fuel line just barely and cause a pin prick hole that while stock was barely noticeable. With all the extra fuel requiring modifications, a small leak had appeared. $10 fix and it should be back to normal. The shop called me as soon as he spotted it because he knew we had been looking for where the problem was for months. Once I pick up the car next week, I will be happy to report how it performs with everything attached.
 
that's good news. let us know if it's running good after it's back together.
 
Hey, I'm out of Houston as well. Could you let me know which dealer you took it to? Just for my future reference, in case I need to bring it in. Also, did you install the JB4 yourself, or had a shop do it?
I took it to Ft Bend Kia. Tim is the service manager. Really cool to talk to and made some off the record suggestions on what to do.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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