P0087 code after doing head studs

snowwhite3.3

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Just finished up my head studs, got my first start up which was rough. However I assumed it was just air in the fuel system. I took it for my first drive and I wasnt making boost, and it felt extremely sluggish. I went and fueled up because I was low and I though that might help purge any air from the fuel system. After I got fuel, I started the car and thats when I got the p0087 code aka "fuel rail pressure too low". I did install high flow downpipes, paired with the catless secondary downpipes, could it be just a tuning issue with the increased airflow because I am on a stock tune at the moment. I also found a glass cartridge fuse under my car, Im really not sure if it is even from the car but I will attach photos of it. I know this might sound like a jumbled mess but any feedback is greatly appreciated.
 

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I have never seen this style of fuse on my Stinger, and would assume anything OEM from the last decade or two would use blade-style or fusible links. Any aftermarket systems that might be fused? Accent lights etc?

Regarding the heads, it might be good to walk through your procedure. I assume you did this in the car...did you pull the heads, or just pull the valve covers and swap them one by one? Does your HPFP make the usual lifter tick noise at startup and idle?
 
I pulled the heads and as of now I seem to be free of leaks. The hpfp sounds normal. I checked the roller in the bottom and cleaned the fuel lines. Im not sure if i can use a regular pressure gauge or if its special as most things on this car are lol.
 
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Im not sure if i can use a regular pressure gauge or if its special as most things on this car are lol.
If you're talking about a normal 100psi or whatever fuel pressure gauge, you could use it upstream of the HPFP to test the low pressure pump pulling from your gas tank. But direct injection isn't at a couple dozen psi like port injection, it's more like a couple thousand psi, so that's what you'll have downstream of the HPFP.

How long has the car run since putting everything back together? Do you have a JB4 or any other logging tool that'll let you monitor the car in real time?
 
I have an ek1 pro monitor. it has only run about 2 hours collectively. It shows my fuel rail pressure at idle, is at around 84 psi. However when I rev the engine to about 2k and hold it the pressure doesnt change. The only time the pressure rises is when I let off the throttle and when I shut the vehicle off. Its making me thing that it is my fpcv.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Just finished up my head studs, got my first start up which was rough. However I assumed it was just air in the fuel system. I took it for my first drive and I wasnt making boost, and it felt extremely sluggish. I went and fueled up because I was low and I though that might help purge any air from the fuel system. After I got fuel, I started the car and thats when I got the p0087 code aka "fuel rail pressure too low". I did install high flow downpipes, paired with the catless secondary downpipes, could it be just a tuning issue with the increased airflow because I am on a stock tune at the moment. I also found a glass cartridge fuse under my car, Im really not sure if it is even from the car but I will attach photos of it. I know this might sound like a jumbled mess but any feedback is greatly appreciated.

The official terminology for that fuse is a "Belling Lee" fuse.

It is named after the original manufacturers of the fuse Belling Lee UK
 
Could it have been off of my car?!? Not sure if Kia even uses these type of fuses or if it could relate to my fuel pressure issue. It very well could be from somewhere else in the shop and just got slid under the car.
 
It shows my fuel rail pressure at idle, is at around 84 psi. However when I rev the engine to about 2k and hold it the pressure doesnt change
There is a rail pressure sensor back at the gas tank, and 84 psi sounds like the value from there (doc below just specs >42 psi). It would make sense that it wouldn't be tied to rpm since it's an electric pump, and just needs to push enough volume for the HPFP to raise to injector pressure.


HPFP range is listed as 290-2900 psi, and will vary with rpm since it's a mechanical pump run off the valvetrain. I've seen values elsewhere of ~500 psi at idle so that tracks.
 
Do have a real time diagnostic tool to read the value during operation?
 
All I can read is rail pressure from the basic sensors from the obd2?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Could it have been off of my car?!? Not sure if Kia even uses these type of fuses or if it could relate to my fuel pressure issue. It very well could be from somewhere else in the shop and just got slid under the car.
No. That style fuse hasn't been common since the 80's. Aftermarket stuff with inline fuses, like light kits, sometimes still use those.

All I can read is rail pressure from the basic sensors from the obd2?
I doubt that's what is really being shown. You'll need something that can ready the vendor-specific data. The ek1 might be able to show that data.

Taking the heads off is a pretty big task. It seems likely that something got missed, a wire got cut, connector left off, something like that.
 
I plan on going through it again, if I cant come up with anything then I will take it to my local dealership for diagnostics.
 
Ended up taking it to a dealership and am awaiting their response. I was able to check all but one sensor and they were all okay. The only things I can think of is a possible clog in the high pressure line (which seems unlikely) or the rail pressure sensor. Hoping its doesnt burn me too bad lol.
 
Update: the shop told me I needed to replace the hpfp which sucks but I made the best out of it and bought a stage 2 pump from Burger. Got that installed today and no dice. Same issues however no code is being thrown. I am at a loss now and very deep into this issue fanancially. Any advice?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
How - exactly - did you replace the head bolts with studs?
 
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Update: the shop told me I needed to replace the hpfp which sucks but I made the best out of it and bought a stage 2 pump from Burger. Got that installed today and no dice. Same issues however no code is being thrown. I am at a loss now and very deep into this issue fanancially. Any advice?
So the dealership diagnosed that the HPFP was faulty, and you replaced the HPFP, and there were no changes whatsoever?

Isn't that a pretty significant misdiagnosis?
 
Yeah it is, unfortunately since I opted to for a upgraded hpfp its not on their dime however I planned on upgrading the pump anyway.
 
Update: the shop told me I needed to replace the hpfp which sucks but I made the best out of it and bought a stage 2 pump from Burger. Got that installed today and no dice. Same issues however no code is being thrown. I am at a loss now and very deep into this issue fanancially. Any advice?
Did you ever figure this out? My p0087 code started when I installed the stage 2 pump from Burger. They sent me another stage 2 pump and it seemed to fix it. A week later I'm right back in the same boat. I think the cam roller was popping off track under the hpfp. I reinstalled the roller and pump a few times and everything seemed fine. No problems for almost a year. Now it's back again. I wouldn't even recommend the stage 2 hpfp to my enemies. $1,600 paperweight
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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