3.3TT Looking for low to mid-11s for 1/4 mile and mid 3s for 0-60

[ryan1stinger]

@Terry@BMS

Let me start with this, I want to be in the low to mid 11s for the 1/4 mile and mid 3s, 0-60 as well as whp in the 475 range. I want to feel greater acceleration in the seat of my pants. So many folks said when you go to WMI the difference is night and day. Unfortunately I feel no difference.

Given my extensive list of mods and in looking at the top 20 1/4 mile times I see no reason why that shouldn't be possible. I realize that I can't overcome the fact that I have a RWD, therefore when on the street I won't be as quick as an AWD (same mods) and I accept that. I'm not going drag radials. With that being said, I currently use RC, I have been happy with it up until I completed my latest rounds of bolt-ons (FMIC and WMI), however I believe I should be much faster than my 4.3 0-60 and 12.3 1/4 mile. I was about to pull the trigger with the Tork Stage 2 tune when the price was $1695, however now that it is $2495 I'm passing. I think my only viable route at this time is JB4. I heard that JB4 allows one to adjust AFR, however I thought that was limited to ECU tunes? My AFR is very rich as you will see in the attached log in the low 10s. The attached logs were 3rd gear pulls on the highest RC map with progressive boost starting at 8 and full wmi at 16 (625ml nozzle). Snow Controller boost is reading boost post throttle body and its reading ~ 17.5

I may never go the route of brake snip because that cries out as a safety issue, so I'm fine with never being the fastest Stinger but I definitely want to be much quicker. I only drive in Sport on the most aggressive map. I don't do much roll racing, but when the need for power calls I want it to be there. My last dyno was 400whp and 500 ft lbs torque. If I go with JB4 what do I need to do to ensure I get the times I want as well as the whp? I'm thinking either Map 6 or Map 8. I want to be aggressive, but not to the point where I'm breaking parts in my daily driver. I'm thinking low 20s for boost and ~ 20 for timing. I'm working with RaceChip and they have been helpful to increase boost and timing on the most aggressive map, however this is moving along much slower than I would like. I believe I'm losing power with the AFR being so rich in the low 10s. Not looking to go Ethanol because I'm not switching out my fuel system to support it.

Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated.

Current setup:

GT2 RWD
Michelin Sport 4S (rears, 255/35/19)
Borla Catback
Snow Stage 2 progressive boost controller, 625ml nozzle, 80/20 meth
HKS M45IL plugs gapped between .022 and .023
Snorkels
Tork Intakes
UP FMIC w/3" cold charge pipe
91 octane gas w/Boostane added to make ~ 95 octane
RC XLR Pedal Tuning
RC GTS on Race (Map 7, most aggressive)

I've attached logs (Carista OBDII adapter and OBD Fusion app) 3rd gear pulls on the RC on the most aggressive Map 7 with WMI coming on at 8 and max at 16. AFR remains rich at around 10. Highest boost I saw on the controller during my first pull was 17.7. Snow controller is measuring boost post throttle body.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Something is going on with the logs as they open empty here. Sure it's recording right?

If you're RWD and want to run mid 11s you're going to need really good drag radials to launch with. No way around it.

 

[ryan1stinger]

Thanks Terry. That’s unfortunate to hear I can’t even run mid-11s without drag radials.

Not sure why the zip didn’t download correctly as I confirmed the files are there. I’ve attached the files directly. Full log and then filtered for positive boost.

 

[ryan1stinger]

This is disappointing to see this is the fastest RWD on the top 20 list that is not using Tork tune and doesn’t have drag radials. If I can only save .3s it’s not worth my time or money to move from RC to JB4.


16. 11.948 @ 118.11, @STINGER, 7.77 @ 92.99, 1.89
RWD, JB4 map 3, WMI, VT Snorkel, K&N Drop ins, High flow CAT, JunBL mid EVC cat back

 

[Travis Wills]

Something is going on with the logs as they open empty here. Sure it's recording right?

If you're RWD and want to run mid 11s you're going to need really good drag radials to launch with. No way around it.

This is the correct answer.

 

[Travis Wills]

Not to beat a dead horse but a 4.3 0-60 mph isn’t great for a stock Stinger much less a modified and tuned one. Your 1/4 mile time isn’t very good either but your 60 foot is probably killing that just as much as anything.

I would ditch the RC stuff all together. That just doesn’t appear to be helping you at all. Also temperature affects those 4S tires immensely. If you are anywhere near 40 degrees F it will be spin city.

I have the PS4 non “S” tires with my basically unmodified Stinger and they spin like crazy unless I heat them up. If you have increased your torque at all you are going to be spinning unless the temperatures are warmer.

I would really sit down and rethink what you are trying to do. If you really want to be one of the top dogs and run deep in the 11s your best bet is with an AWD GT or GTS and a much better tuning company. It can be done with RWD but it takes a real commitment to improve traction dramatically.

You can have 1,000 HP and it won’t make you fast unless you have a way to put that power to the ground.

Here are the numbers I am getting basically stock. I don’t have any sort of tune at all. No meth. No aftermarket intake, exhaust, or intercooler. Just basically the AirScoops Snorkels.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Plenty of RWD JB4 guys in the 11.8 range and higher on stock tires, but 11.5 just isn't going to happen without a 1.7 60' IMHO. Good luck getting that in RWD. Maybe at a track with perfect prep?

The RWD cars usually have the advantage on rolling races though!

 

[Terry@BMS]

This is disappointing to see this is the fastest RWD on the top 20 list that is not using Tork tune and doesn’t have drag radials. If I can only save .3s it’s not worth my time or money to move from RC to JB4.


16. 11.948 @ 118.11, @STINGER, 7.77 @ 92.99, 1.89
RWD, JB4 map 3, WMI, VT Snorkel, K&N Drop ins, High flow CAT, JunBL mid EVC cat back

Oh it's not JB4 logs, I only look at JB4 logs sorry. This is a JB4 support forum.

If you're running a RC that's literally a joke. It's not even a tune it's just a boost controller. Adding in fuel control and CANbus will provide a night and day improvement in your performance.

 

[ryan1stinger]

Well RC is not a joke, but in regards to JB4 you’re saying the AFR can be adjusted?

 

[ryan1stinger]

Not to beat a dead horse but a 4.3 0-60 mph isn’t great for a stock Stinger much less a modified and tuned one. Your 1/4 mile time isn’t very good either but your 60 foot is probably killing that just as much as anything.

I would ditch the RC stuff all together. That just doesn’t appear to be helping you at all. Also temperature affects those 4S tires immensely. If you are anywhere near 40 degrees F it will be spin city.

I have the PS4 non “S” tires with my basically unmodified Stinger and they spin like crazy unless I heat them up. If you have increased your torque at all you are going to be spinning unless the temperatures are warmer.

I would really sit down and rethink what you are trying to do. If you really want to be one of the top dogs and run deep in the 11s your best bet is with an AWD GT or GTS and a much better tuning company. It can be done with RWD but it takes a real commitment to improve traction dramatically.

You can have 1,000 HP and it won’t make you fast unless you have a way to put that power to the ground.

Here are the numbers I am getting basically stock. I don’t have any sort of tune at all. No meth. No aftermarket intake, exhaust, or intercooler. Just basically the AirScoops Snorkels.
View attachment 53473View attachment 53474

I would consider your 0-60 to be quite good for RWD without a tune as I haven’t seen anyone in the 4.3 range. Thanks for the info.

 

[Oryan]

RaceChip is fine...for mostly stock cars if you're looking to get a bit more oomph but nothing too crazy. That's more or less what their products aim for, and they fill that role well, IMO. However...Anyone actually trying to make these cars move with a purpose is running either a JB4, some form of ECU tune, or maybe Lap3's Protuner thing. What the JB4 can control vs what the RaceChip can control, hell even the Lap3 vs Racechip, night and day difference. You are gimping yourself without a more comprehensive tuning solution. What that entails, is your choice but RC isn't gonna get you anywhere near 475 wheel or mid 11's.

And...there's more on a 1/4 mile slip than the time and 60ft. AWD Stingers will tend to get down the quarter faster because they can more easily put down the power. They can do the brake snip thing and have more grip than a RWD car can. But the trap speeds of similarly modded RWD Stingers tend to be higher. If you're willing to do some math you can also see RWD cars tend to cover the second 1/8th more quickly as well. RWD Stingers will struggle off the line leading to big losses in the 1/4 but if you were to stretch it out to a half mile, you'd likely see many RWD Stingers start closing that gap. The same can be said on anything from a roll. I'm no expert or anything. I just read, learn, and figured out what I wanted.

 

[Terry@BMS]

Well RC is not a joke, but in regards to JB4 you’re saying the AFR can be adjusted?

Yep. I'm pretty sure that has all been explained to you multiple times. You've got all the info, plan your tuning out accordingly.

 

[cncBilly]

Well RC is not a joke, but in regards to JB4 you’re saying the AFR can be adjusted?

No, he is actually saying RC is a JOKE! Heed the advice of a wise one grasshopper.

 

[ryan1stinger]

No, he is actually saying RC is a JOKE! Heed the advice of a wise one grasshopper.

Just because a product doesn’t have the exact same functionality as another product doesn’t make it a joke. That is a very naive view. Terry likes to bash other vendors so it’s not surprising that he would state that. He probably feels threatened, because in the tuning world RC has sold more than 500k units to many happy customers all over the world for numerous car manufacturers. It has its niche for those folks that want true plug and play and forget. You don’t need to fiddle with customizing and looking at logs. While there is nothing wrong with that, that’s not for everyone. While JB4 is constantly updating which is great I read a an update where maps had changed from one release to another and that makes me question the QA process of the releases.

Obviously me opening this thread was a mistake as I was hoping for some real world data to help convince me to move from RC to JB4 rather than a bash of RC. I appreciate the info shared that was geared towards RC and I’m on the fence as to what to do because I do want more power out of my car. I will continue to see what RC can do for me. Maybe another vendor will come along in the meantime.

Please close this thread.