If I were to do it all over again, the very first thing I would do is close the gap on the
spark plugs. I went with a "0.22" gap. I recommend using a 0.20"-0.24" gap and I have heard as low as a 0.18". I changed to a one-step colder plug but you will be okay with the stock ones, I believe. This is good practice with any turbo/SC engine.
The JB4 for the Kias/Hyundais has 9 maps.
Map 0 is stock boost (~12psi)
Map 1 adds boost, leans AFR (runs in 10s from factory), and I think adjust timing (not sure the computer may do its own adjustments.
Map 2 adds more boost than 1
Map 3 adds more boost than 2
Map 4 adds more boost than 3
Map 5 adds more boost than 4
Map 6 is custom map and adds any amount you set in the "Settings" page
Map 7 is like Map 5 but is made for WMI and adds safety guards in case the Meth flow stops
Map 8 is the valet map and cuts the boost in half (~6psi)
My car runs an 11.99s 1/.4 @ 118mph with only Intakes, JB4, and a 7th injector.
I plan on lighter wheels (0.2s off E/T in the 1/4 22lbs vs 36lbs for stock wheels), a BMS intercooler, and an axle back. Hoping for 11.6s-11.8s in the 1/4 with a measly 2.0 60" (I don't launch hard).
The 7th injector just taps into the low pressure side of the fuel system and I run it on a Hobbs switch so it runs @ 100% duty cycle. I have a BMS Injector controller and a split-second A1C2 injector controller and I may switch over to that so the 7th injector ramps up instead of just going full flow right when it hits the boost threshold. The car runs perfect though the way it is, and it cost about $500 to add the injector the way I have it setup.
I also run E40-E50, so if ethanol is available you should definitely run that, but without the 7th injector, you shouldn't run more than E30.