• Click HERE to ask your JB4 Question!
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

If at first you don't succeed...

StingerLover

Active Member
Joined
May 25, 2018
Messages
267
Reaction score
204
Points
43
Location
VA
After traveling for a week while my JB4 (and Densos) sat in the garage awaiting installation, I got to work a couple of hours after returning home.

I had read all 105 pages of the Hyundai/Kia thread on n54tech.com and just about everything here in advance.

After getting 5346 Densos gapped to .022" put in, I drove around a fair amount to see how the car was behaving. It may have been my imagination, but it seemed to run even better than before.

The JB4 install was easy, including feeding the OBD-II cable past the firewall grommet. After hooking everything up (except the fuel wires-for now), including the wireless connect kit, I first installed the v10 firmware. Updated without a problem.

I then started the car. I didn't explode and seemed to idle fine. Phew.

Next, I slowly pulled out of the driveway. I didn't make it far at all before the car was surging and jerking. Something was very wrong. Backed back into the driveway and garage. Double-checked all of the connections, removed the JB4 housing and inspected the wires, and disconnected the OBD-II cable.

Tried another very slow test drive. Same problem. Tried MAP 0. Sample problem. And I got a CEL and started to panic a bit. :eek:

After reconnecting the OBD-II cable, I got two codes from the mobile app, but both were P0000 no description.

I disconnected everything, restoring stock connections, and pulled the codes with a reader. P0108 and P0113, I believe. Cleared the codes.

Thankfully, the car ran fine after removing the JB4.

P0108 is a MAP error. The MAP connection seemed really snug when plugging in the stock connector to the JB4 female.

I gave the hookup another shot, but this time I twisted the wires on the JB4 harness and plugged the MAP connection in the other way, which went in much easier (like the TMAP connection on the front).

The car drove fine on MAP 0. Then it drove better (more power!) on MAP 1.

It seems that it let me hook up the MAP connector backwards on the first attempts. It could be my old eyes, but I saw no indication of which way it was supposed to go (there were tabs on both sides), and I had to turn the connector on the JB4 harness around to what seemed opposite to the way it wanted to go.

I've been running MAP 2 on 93 octane (10% ethanol) pump gas for the last two days and am loving it!

It definitely paid to keep trying.
 
Looking forward to the day I can afford one
I asked myself if Kia offered this kind of performance upgrade as an option, would I have gotten it. DEFINITELY. Of course, it doesn't come with the Kia warranty, but it is awesome.
 
______________________________
Exhaust is my next goal, and then maybe CAI. But jB4 is definitely on the list
 
Exhaust is my next goal, and then maybe CAI. But jB4 is definitely on the list
Been waiting on my backordered MBRP. Great minds think alike! ;)

Not sure about a CAI, as I'm more interested in low end torque...
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Been waiting on my backordered MBRP. Great minds think alike! ;)

Not sure about a CAI, as I'm more interested in low end torque...
excuse my ignorance here but wouldnt an exhaust also lower low end torque?
 
excuse my ignorance here but wouldnt an exhaust also lower low end torque?
Good question. I wouldn't think cat-back only would. I'm not replacing the downpipes or eliminating cats (even though I'm more of a dog person ;)).

I want the sound. If it does impact low end torque, that might be more reason for me to not to compound the issue with CAI.
 
Idk about CAI for forced induction but the CAI and SRI I had for our NA cars improved high AND low end torque. Injen is my preference
 
Idk about CAI for forced induction but the CAI and SRI I had for our NA cars improved high AND low end torque. Injen is my preference
In THAT CASE...me thinks me needs to rethink!
 
I'm not replacing the downpipes or eliminating cats (even though I'm more of a dog person ;)).
Don't do that! Aussies read these threads too, in large numbers, and they cannot resist punning; it's almost like a social disorder. You'll set them off! ;):P:laugh:
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Good question. I wouldn't think cat-back only would. I'm not replacing the downpipes or eliminating cats (even though I'm more of a dog person ;)).

I want the sound. If it does impact low end torque, that might be more reason for me to not to compound the issue with CAI.

gotcha, different car but on my last car I put in a catback on a 2.0 Turbo and lost a TON of low end torque (gained nice sound and top end though). wasnt sure if the 3.3 responded the same way. In my last car I put in a CAI first, noticed barely any loss in the low end but large gains in middle to top and then once I put the exhaust in it was like something felt broke at first until I realized what happened. Just food for thought if youve never done a catback before. Of course YMMV due to butt dyno calibration :p
 
Don't do that! Aussies read these threads too, in large numbers, and they cannot resist punning; it's almost like a social disorder. You'll set them off! ;):p:laugh:

Nah... too late, one of them's already here mate. Did I hear punning... o_O

It is my first post here after some days of researching and I must admit I am very, very new to all this experience with tuning Stingers.
My car (read baby) is just over 1K old and I am planning on a couple of additions to it, namely Eibach rear swaybar, CAI (probably K&N), Cat back from XForce, Response TMS BOV for Stinger (?), and JB4 (with OCC (?), SPlugs of course.

The first things to go on are sway bar, exhaust and JB4, however here lies my dilemma. JB4 uses OBD2 port and so is XForce with their Varex Smart Box Bluetooth Exhaust Controller.

Is it possible to have this set up functioning if I have JB4 and XForce connected to OBD2 port through a splitter?
I am not too concerned about squeezing that last tenth of a second out of my Stinger and would be happy running it daily on a 98 Octane from a local pump with the benefits of JB4.

I guess my question is aimed more at @Terry@BMS but if anyone has had the experience of splitting the input to OBD2 port between more than one application and wants to share, that would be great.

Disclaimer:
I have nothing against cats, but seriously ...
 
Welcome, @serg965. So, we are just to assume that you have an Orange because of your avatar?:p Tell us about your car, if you would. I only have the first item on your short list: the Eibach rear sway bar. No mods, otherwise. :) (unless you count aftermarket wheels, then I have much lighter wheels than the OEM GT)
 
Thank you @MerlintheMad.

Yes, the assumption was correct LOL. It's a Neon Orange (as it's called down here), new color for MY20s, GT 3.3L which is our top line, with 19' Michelin Pilots and all available bells and whistles. I only got it like a bit over a month ago, so still coming to terms of how beautiful this (monster of a) car really is. So when I push it a little to overtake some one in traffic and the collision warning comes up, that's when I think I need a bit more of a distance in front ha ha. Still, that got me thinking what if... and researching for the last couple of weeks landed me here on JB4 forum.

Hopefully @Terry@BMS will reply and make it clear. I really like what JB4 is offering and hope it will work out with the XForce exhaust that gives me a "wife/neighbor" option.

No mods so far. All is as is just out of KIA's baby factory, so I have a long road ahead and trying to absorb all I can do to this car safely.

I did get the rear Stinger badge, door striker covers, door scuff lettering, the front "E" badge, wheel caps, door catch inserts. Oh, inserts for cup holders and tray. Half of it is still in the mail and is going to be the first mods. Couple of hundreds spent for things I can do myself thanks to all Stinger videos and feedback. Then more serious stuff.

PS: a bit more proper introduction
20190831_165428.webp
 
Don't do that! Aussies read these threads too, in large numbers, and they cannot resist punning; it's almost like a social disorder. You'll set them off! ;):p:laugh:
I know this is a late reply but lets face it we have been behaving ourselves for quite some time :p:whistle:
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
As far as I know from reading others posts, you can’t use a splitter with the JB4 so any of the OBDII exhausts won’t work.
 
______________________________
After traveling for a week while my JB4 (and Densos) sat in the garage awaiting installation, I got to work a couple of hours after returning home.

I had read all 105 pages of the Hyundai/Kia thread on n54tech.com and just about everything here in advance.

After getting 5346 Densos gapped to .022" put in, I drove around a fair amount to see how the car was behaving. It may have been my imagination, but it seemed to run even better than before.

The JB4 install was easy, including feeding the OBD-II cable past the firewall grommet. After hooking everything up (except the fuel wires-for now), including the wireless connect kit, I first installed the v10 firmware. Updated without a problem.

I then started the car. I didn't explode and seemed to idle fine. Phew.

Next, I slowly pulled out of the driveway. I didn't make it far at all before the car was surging and jerking. Something was very wrong. Backed back into the driveway and garage. Double-checked all of the connections, removed the JB4 housing and inspected the wires, and disconnected the OBD-II cable.

Tried another very slow test drive. Same problem. Tried MAP 0. Sample problem. And I got a CEL and started to panic a bit. :eek:

After reconnecting the OBD-II cable, I got two codes from the mobile app, but both were P0000 no description.

I disconnected everything, restoring stock connections, and pulled the codes with a reader. P0108 and P0113, I believe. Cleared the codes.

Thankfully, the car ran fine after removing the JB4.

P0108 is a MAP error. The MAP connection seemed really snug when plugging in the stock connector to the JB4 female.

I gave the hookup another shot, but this time I twisted the wires on the JB4 harness and plugged the MAP connection in the other way, which went in much easier (like the TMAP connection on the front).

The car drove fine on MAP 0. Then it drove better (more power!) on MAP 1.

It seems that it let me hook up the MAP connector backwards on the first attempts. It could be my old eyes, but I saw no indication of which way it was supposed to go (there were tabs on both sides), and I had to turn the connector on the JB4 harness around to what seemed opposite to the way it wanted to go.

I've been running MAP 2 on 93 octane (10% ethanol) pump gas for the last two days and am loving it!

It definitely paid to keep trying.
I have my Stinger GT2 set up the same way, + Fuel line hookup, using Map2 for two weeks now. The on demand power increase is amazing, and all is perfect in normal driving as well.


Glad I went with JB4.
 
As far as I know from reading others posts, you can’t use a splitter with the JB4 so any of the OBDII exhausts won’t work.
Thank you. That would be a shame :(
If it's the case than I would have to go with something like Racechip. Need a definite answer. May have to post the same question to the main JB4 thread.
And XForce app doesn't even have to run all the time. Only when you need to set it up or change some settings.
 
Back
Top