I curbed my damn rim!

Vladec

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Yep....pissed. Apparently the color of the rim is going to hard to find. Any advice on repairing would be greatly appreciated!
 
Yep....pissed. Apparently the color of the rim is going to hard to find. Any advice on repairing would be greatly appreciated!
Tons of places do wheel repair. pics of how bad and where you live might help with a referral.
 
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Yep....pissed. Apparently the color of the rim is going to hard to find. Any advice on repairing would be greatly appreciated!
just google "wheel repair" , many cities have mobile guys that can come to you and fix them on the spot , sorry to hear , but not an uncommon thing and relatively easy and inexpensive to fix , good luck !!
 
If you're handy and have the time Eflyguy down loaded a vid on how to fix curb rash.
You will find it in the thread " Refurbishing Wheels " started by Strikecorp :)
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
It's not bad but it was heartbreaking
 
I just bought a kit. Apparently machine metal is hard to match.....I figure if I really isolate the area it won't be noticeable. Attached a picture.
 

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It's not bad but it was heartbreaking
Same, the day after i was looking at the curb rash protectors on aliexpress :) I just used a dremel with a fine grind stone that came with the dremel then 400, 800, 1500, 2000 wet n dry paper then finished with brasso (metal polish) it was a bit shinier than the wheel but after a few days dulled down and hardly noticeable now but sounds like yours are coloured you said... trickier.
 
I just bought a kit. Apparently machine metal is hard to match.....I figure if I really isolate the area it won't be noticeable. Attached a picture.
with wet fine sand paper ..................you could remove 90 % , A wheel shop mightcharge 50 -75 to get back to 100%,,,,,,good luck
 
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I just bought a kit. Apparently machine metal is hard to match.....I figure if I really isolate the area it won't be noticeable. Attached a picture.
That's way smaller than mine and i can hardly notice it now, it's painful to hear though hey.
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
That's way smaller than mine and i can hardly notice it now, it's painful to hear though hey.
Yea I hit up a couple shops. Anywhere from 80 to 225 to get it match exactly. At that point I might as well try and get a new rim lol
 
Yep....pissed. Apparently the color of the rim is going to hard to find. Any advice on repairing would be greatly appreciated!
I sympathize!
Paging dr Merlin. Paging curb king Merlin... you’re needed in the icu...
LOL! :laugh: My reputation is well established. :D
I just bought a kit. Apparently machine metal is hard to match.....I figure if I really isolate the area it won't be noticeable. Attached a picture.
The rim is not painted in the alloy face, only the inner gun metal grey. But there is a clear coating to the entire surface.
Yea I hit up a couple shops. Anywhere from 80 to 225 to get it match exactly. At that point I might as well try and get a new rim lol
Not really. $125 (the minimum I priced) is considerably less than $630, Kia's price for a replacement GT rim.

Sandpaper it. That's a doodle injury, super easy to eradicate so that you can't see it from c. five feet away. You use three grits; heavy, c. then 200 or so; finally 2000 or higher wet-dry; and you use this only to polish the sandpaper lines out: use LOTS of water: soak your paper for several minutes first. Try and stay off the surrounding area, because the sandpaper will haze the clear coat.
 
That is possibly the least amount of damage from a 'curbing' that I've ever seen ... :)

Some progressive applications of sandpaper will polish that out nicely, and you don't need to match a colour - it's going to end up the same bright metal finish as the rest of the machined surface. Then mask the area you've sanded and apply clear coat - done.
 
Then mask the area you've sanded and apply clear coat - done.
Interestingly, there is no rush to clear coat. I did not put any clear coat on the numerous rashes I faded by sanding. And throughout the winter last year the repaired spots did not go dull or in any way become more noticeable. Now, if I had left my wheels without clear coat another year? I can't say: I powder coated them when the rashing got to be too much. :P
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Interestingly, there is no rush to clear coat.
I beg to differ - any time you leave a freshly machine/abraded surface open to the elements you're inviting corrosion. It's a pretty easy additional step to seal and protect the surface after it's been cleaned and repaired.

I've seen some pretty scary examples of what happens not only to a bare alloy surface, but also when moisture and contamination/salt gets under the existing clear coat because it's chipped or an edge exposed. Yes, it can take time - but it can get really ugly.
 
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I sympathize!

LOL! :laugh: My reputation is well established. :D

The rim is not painted in the alloy face, only the inner gun metal grey. But there is a clear coating to the entire surface.

Not really. $125 (the minimum I priced) is considerably less than $630, Kia's price for a replacement GT rim.

Sandpaper it. That's a doodle injury, super easy to eradicate so that you can't see it from c. five feet away. You use three grits; heavy, c. then 200 or so; finally 2000 or higher wet-dry; and you use this only to polish the sandpaper lines out: use LOTS of water: soak your paper for several minutes first. Try and stay off the surrounding area, because the sandpaper will haze the clear coat.
Listen to the professional. ;)
 
I beg to differ - any time you leave a freshly machine/abraded surface open to the elements you're inviting corrosion. It's a pretty easy additional step to seal and protect the surface after it's been cleaned and repaired.

I've seen some pretty scary examples of what happens not only to a bare alloy surface, but also when moisture and contamination/salt gets under the existing clear coat because it's chipped or an edge exposed. Yes, it can take time - but it can get really ugly.
I am not advocating for neglecting clear coat; just saying it takes more than a single winter to compromise exposed alloy. So, "no rush". Fix the damage first, then look into clear coat; you don't have to do both at the same time. You don't have to wait to make the rash look healed if you don't know how to clear coat yet, or don't have the product yet. Some time going by in between sanding and clear coating is not going to ruin the wheel.
 
I am not advocating for neglecting clear coat; just saying it takes more than a single winter to compromise exposed alloy. So, "no rush". Fix the damage first, then look into clear coat; you don't have to do both at the same time. You don't have to wait to make the rash look healed if you don't know how to clear coat yet, or don't have the product yet. Some time going by in between sanding and clear coating is not going to ruin the wheel.
Merlin is there a recommended clear coat for wheels?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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