Eibach Springs Which Ones?

Schmidt

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Hello, I am looking at springs for my 2018 Stinger GT. Wondering which springs to go with. Seems like everyone likes the Eibach springs but I am not sure which set is best for me. Hoping to match them up with Whiteline sway bars and Whiteline endlinks. THANKS!!
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Take a closer look at the two options.

E10-46-035-01-22 gives the 3.3 AWD a 1.4/1.2" drop and it goves the 3.3 RWD a .8/.8" drop.

E10-46-035-02-22 only gives specs for the 2.0 RWD and shows .8/.8" drop.

Is your car RWD, AWD, 3.3L, or 2.0L
 
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Oh Sweet...I was looking at that and to me what I thought was two options for the AWD and then with the different part number for the RWD
 
With the Eibach you will probably want to get the Megan Racing Toe and Camber arms for the rear.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
The variations are really just dependent on whether or not you are AWD/RWD. We carry the Eibach Springs on our website (CLICK HERE) shipped for cheaper than what you posted and I would be glad to help you out with a little discount on them as well to sweeten the deal if you want to purchase with us.
 
The variations are really just dependent on whether or not you are AWD/RWD. We carry the Eibach Springs on our website (CLICK HERE) shipped for cheaper than what you posted and I would be glad to help you out with a little discount on them as well to sweeten the deal if you want to purchase with us.
The Eibach springs are deffo a future mod i want done for my car!
 
E10-46-035-02-22 only gives specs for the 2.0 RWD and shows .8/.8" drop.
Based on how my 2.0 RWD sits on that set of springs, I'd say that is pretty accurate. However, I'd say the rear drop is closer to 1.0", but it depends on how the car is loaded.

The 2.5T RWD might be okay, but it'll most likely have a postive rake angle (front sitting a bit lower than rear). 2.5T's curb weight is supposedly about 200 lbs heavier than the 2.0T, according to Kia's specs. Being that the main difference is the engine, I would guess most of that extra weight is over the front axle.
 
Ooh bummer. How bad is it if I dont? Is it necessary?
I would do some research on this before proceeding - search is your friend.

Quite a few guys have reported problems after doing springs - and yes, new hardware is recommended.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Ooh bummer. How bad is it if I dont? Is it necessary?
No worries. It's not like something catastrophic is going to happen by installing the lowering springs without the Megan arms. You will have to get an alignment done either way. Depending on the lowering amount, your car might run out of camber adjustment range. There are two OEM eccentric bolts that allows for a certain range of camber and toe adjustment, independently. The more the car is lowered, the more likely the camber eccentric bolt will run out of adjustment. If it does, it's no big deal. You can always buy the Megan arms, install them, then get the alignment redone.

IMO, just make sure you get a lifetime alignment policy on your car. Then you don't have to worry about doing alignment multiple times. I got mine at Firestone for $170, IIRC. I've already gotten it done twice. Last time I brought it in, they indicated that my rear camber adjustment was maxed out at -2.0 deg (with Eibach Pro Kit springs). So I went ahead and bought the Megan camber arms. Once installed, I'll bring it in for a 3rd alignment. Realistically, I doubt I absolutely have to get the Megan toe arm too, as lowering does not affect toe angle. Nowhere near as much as it affects camber anyway.

IMO, adding the Megan toe arm is not a bad idea, if for no other reason than to replace the rather soft rubber bushings in the OEM control arms, with stiffer bushings in the Megan arms. In fact, Megan makes all 4 rear control arms. However, they are heavy, so you'd be gaining unsprung weight with more precise suspension articulation control.
 
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