Eibach Front Sway Bar Feedback (AWD)

[NS_Stinger]

I have an AWD 3.3TT and have been running the rear Eibach sway bar on the soft setting for a year or more now. It did wonders to tame body roll and made the car feel a lot more composed in corners. It also removed that side-step feeling from the rear end that many owners talk about. It didn't really affect ride quality at all. Over time I was noticing that during cornering the front felt like it had body roll while the back felt planted.

I decided to add the front bar and I can confirm it is well worth installing. It improved the steering feel and I can feel more of the road through the wheel as well. Before I installed it I felt like I had to correct the steering direction through a corner several times with just the rear bar, but the front bar seems to have helped correct this. The car also feels more neutral through sweeping corners. The only downside I'd say is that the front bar does affect ride quality, sport mode feels much more sporty and stiff than before and comfort mode is a bit more firm than before but totally livable.

 

[narsnail]

I have an AWD 3.3TT and have been running the rear Eibach sway bar on the soft setting for a year or more now. It did wonders to tame body roll and made the car feel a lot more composed in corners. It also removed that side-step feeling from the rear end that many owners talk about. It didn't really affect ride quality at all. Over time I was noticing that during cornering the front felt like it had body roll while the back felt planted.

I decided to add the front bar and I can confirm it is well worth installing. It improved the steering feel and I can feel more of the road through the wheel as well. Before I installed it I felt like I had to correct the steering direction through a corner several times with just the rear bar, but the front bar seems to have helped correct this. The car also feels more neutral through sweeping corners. The only downside I'd say is that the front bar does affect ride quality, sport mode feels much more sporty and stiff than before and comfort mode is a bit more firm than before but totally livable.

I'm pretty sure this is my next upgrade, but when you say stiff...I'm sure your roads are just as crappy as mine. Do you feel it more through the steering wheel or the entire car?

 

[NS_Stinger]

Both, you can feel more of the road imperfections transferred into the steering and the cabin as well. I actually really like the feeling in sport now, it feels more aggressive and firm. Comfort is definitely firmer but like I mentioned before it's totally livable. Don't expect as dramatic of a change in handling as you did when you added the rear, but this is a great compliment to the rear bar. I actually don't see much need to lower the car for anything other than looks after installing these bars as the car feels very planted and more than capable of hitting the cornering speeds that I'm ever going to demand from it.

The roads in my area are terrible here on the East Coast, so if anything your area probably isn't as bad for road conditions.

 

[narsnail]

I may just start with the rear bar (currently stock sway bars) then, since my lowering springs had a more dramatic affect on handling than I anticipated.

I live in the nice end of town where the roads are actually pretty good, I have to cross to the poor end of town for work and those roads are trash.

Thanks for the update!

 

[cncBilly]

I may just start with the rear bar (currently stock sway bars) then, since my lowering springs had a more dramatic affect on handling than I anticipated.

I live in the nice end of town where the roads are actually pretty good, I have to cross to the poor end of town for work and those roads are trash.

Thanks for the update!

Go for both of them and keep in mind the front is a simple install

 

[SnowyGT2]

To me these sound like a must-have but I WOULD NOT be able to tackle the install. Hell, I've never even removed a wheel before...

 

[narsnail]

To me these sound like a must-have but I WOULD NOT be able to tackle the install. Hell, I've never even removed a wheel before...

I would say this is something a beginner could do, although the rear is annoying with the fuel tank line in the way on the one side. You'd need a jack, jackstands, ratchet(s), socket set with some extensions/swivel, a torque wrench and maybe some wrenches. That is a fair investment in tools though so if you don't have any of that, might be cheaper to have it installed.

Gotta start somewhere, 4 years ago I did my first "upgrade" on my Civic and did the sway-bar links. Took me 4 hours, bet I could do it in half an hour now.

 

[NS_Stinger]

Installing the rear is definitely a total PITA, the front was fairly straight forward but is still a bit time consuming for a single person to tackle without a hoist or air tools. For a mechanic with air tools and a hoist you're looking at 45mins for the front.

 

[Hockster]

Any special tools needed for the install? I don't have air but do have electric impacts. Car will be on a Quickjack. Lift is about 16 inches. Planning to do front and rear bars.

 

[narsnail]

Ratchets with swivel heads will help for the rear, the one side is really tight.

You won't need anything special. Just some patience with the rear.

 

[NS_Stinger]

If you're asking about the front bar the only special tool I used was body clip removal pliers for the plastic fasteners on the underbody panel. But you could get away with a couple flathead screw drivers to pop them out or something.

 

[cncBilly]

Installing the rear is definitely a total PITA, the front was fairly straight forward but is still a bit time consuming for a single person to tackle without a hoist or air tools. For a mechanic with air tools and a hoist you're looking at 45mins for the front.

I disagree. Any professional mechanic worth his salt should be able to do the front in less than 20 minutes. It’s simple, four bolts two nuts and the thing falls out on it’s own. Seconds for a properly equipped pro.

 

[NS_Stinger]

I disagree. Any professional mechanic worth his salt should be able to do the front in less than 20 minutes. It’s simple, four bolts two nuts and the thing falls out on it’s own. Seconds for a properly equipped pro.

Have you done this install yourself before or did you have your mechanic do it? If you can find a mechanic that can do the following in 20 minutes he must be the Flash.

Raise car on hoist
remove centre caps
remove 5 lugnuts per side
remove both wheels
remove 8 underbody plastic clips with trim tool
remove 4 underbody bolts
remove tray
disconnect 2 power steering wiring harnesses
remove 1 nut per side on the end of the endlinks (nut requires allen key and wrench in a tight space with obstruction once broken loose)
remove 4 bracket bolts and drop oem bar
remove 1 bolt per side on the oem bar
attach both oem endlinks to new bar 1 bolt per side
lubricate inside of new bushing and slide them onto new bar
slide new bar into place on car and align endlinks to slide into place by strut
reinstall endlink bolts 1 per side
slide in new spacer bracket and put new brackets over new bushings
tighten 4 bracket bushings
plug both power steering harnesses back in
reinstall tray using the 8 plastic clips and 4 bolts
reinstall both wheels and torque to 90ft/lbs
lower car

 

[cncBilly]

Have you done this install yourself before or did you have your mechanic do it? If you can find a mechanic that can do the following in 20 minutes he must be the Flash.

Raise car on hoist
remove centre caps
remove 5 lugnuts per side
remove both wheels
remove 8 underbody plastic clips with trim tool
remove 4 underbody bolts
remove tray
disconnect 2 power steering wiring harnesses
remove 1 nut per side on the end of the endlinks (nut requires allen key and wrench in a tight space with obstruction once broken loose)
remove 4 bracket bolts and drop oem bar
remove 1 bolt per side on the oem bar
attach both oem endlinks to new bar 1 bolt per side
lubricate inside of new bushing and slide them onto new bar
slide new bar into place on car and align endlinks to slide into place by strut
reinstall endlink bolts 1 per side
slide in new spacer bracket and put new brackets over new bushings
tighten 4 bracket bushings
plug both power steering harnesses back in
reinstall tray using the 8 plastic clips and 4 bolts
reinstall both wheels and torque to 90ft/lbs
lower car

Yup did it myself. It was simple and I don't have the air tools a mechanic would have which as you likely know removes nuts and bolts in seconds. Mind you when I work on my car I'm having so much fun I don't really care how long it takes me. Hmm now you've inspired me...... I think I'll go buy something.

 

[Aarvix]

Having the right size allen wrench is the only "special" tool I can think of (outside of the typical wrenches/sockets/extensions everyone should own).
You can rent a torque wrench from any auto parts store if you don't want to spent the money for one.

 

[Hockster]

I've got a full set of tools, 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches. Was just curious if anything odd was needed.

 

[cncBilly]

Having the right size allen wrench is the only "special" tool I can think of (outside of the typical wrenches/sockets/extensions everyone should own).
You can rent a torque wrench from any auto parts store if you don't want to spent the money for one.

Not to mention.....one should have a big bag of patience in their kit as well. This helps immensely for those tedious jobs

 

[Not Here Anymore]

I got my sway bars done at the shop with the stronger springs also a good alignment with it , As these Stinger s track nicely on a circuit track

 

[cncBilly]

S

I got my sway bars done at the shop with the stronger springs also a good alignment with it , As these Stinger s track nicely on a circuit track

So Arnie are getting to zip around area 27

 

[Not Here Anymore]

S

So Arnie are getting to zip around area 27

Yes I was in the Area 27 track on last May 28 th 2020 , and it was great to finally have the car working properly this year