EBC PADS RED OR YELLOW
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Daniel @ K8 Stinger Store
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We decided to carry the red pads since we thought it was the best EBC option for daily driving and aggressive use. These are really great pads as you know. We have them available on our website HERE. Feel free to send me a message if you have any questions or if you would like a discount on your order.
Volfy
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Yellowstuff used to be EBC's street performance compound that can also do track days. Apparently, a while back they tweaked the compound to be more specifically to cover the high end of street performance and, therefore, is no longer recommending Yellowstuff for extensive track use. Occasional short runs and AutoX will likely be just fine. Like the typical high friction coefficient performance pad compound, it will most likely still generate a good bit of brake dust and may even tend to make a little noise. Maybe not as much as the Bluestuff I have on now, but if you are used the OEM ceramic pad, you might be surprised by the difference. It's a compromise one way or another.
I went Bluestuff because I planned to do track days, and I was already prepared for it by choosing wheels that are easy to clean. For me, it's a price worth paying.
Redstuff is a ceramic street pad that will be easier to live with. Low dust, low noise, etc. Still very much an improvement over OEM. You just have to decide how much performance gain you want vs. how much you're willing to live with the compromises of more performance-oriented pad compound.
I went Bluestuff because I planned to do track days, and I was already prepared for it by choosing wheels that are easy to clean. For me, it's a price worth paying.
Redstuff is a ceramic street pad that will be easier to live with. Low dust, low noise, etc. Still very much an improvement over OEM. You just have to decide how much performance gain you want vs. how much you're willing to live with the compromises of more performance-oriented pad compound.
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soflo_nick
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I just installed EBC NDX Bluestuff on all 4 corners after doing extensive research. It seems that the NDX are an evolution to the yellowstuff. Anyways I am absolutely astonished how better the brakes are vs the factory setup. Much better cold bite, fade resistance and overall majorly improved stopping power/
I did 4 new Brembo Rotors/ NDX Pads on 4 corners and Motul 5.1 brake fluid flush
I did 4 new Brembo Rotors/ NDX Pads on 4 corners and Motul 5.1 brake fluid flush
Running Yellowstuffs in the front and I couldn’t be happier, but I’m also running the EBC floating rotors and braided SS brakelines with Motul juice. I’m in braking bliss with just that front setup, the rear Brembo conversion is happening in March, when I convert back to my 3-season 19” setup….can’t wait!
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
tdunn
Newish Member
I put the Yellowstuff up front and turned the OEM rotors. Perfect for a while but now vibrates when heated up almost as bad as the OEM pads. I may have left the originals on too long?
Volfy
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Possibly. How do the rotors look up close?
Where did you find the NDX Bluestuff? I'm having some trouble finding them in stock. Thanks.
tdunn
Newish Member
To my untrained eye they look fine. Perfectly smooth when cold. I've learned about how the OEM pad deposits can create hot spots in the metal which may be the problem and time for new rotors.
Volfy
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Lots of places sell them. Amazon shows a couple of sellers, including Amazon itself.
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Volfy
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If your rotors are heat spotted, they should show clear signs of them. Maybe not this obvious, but something resembling these patterns:
EBC is very explicit about the Yellowstuff having a long bed-in process. I'm going to assume you seated, then bedded your Yellowstuff properly, per EBC's instructions. If you did, and the brakes are still vibrating, then something else is not right.
You say they vibrate when "heated up", how are you determining that it is the brakes getting hot that causes the problem?
tdunn
Newish Member
Thanks for the photo. They don't look like that but now I have a better idea of what I'm seeing. I followed instructions exactly. They feel perfectly smooth when cold. I figure more use is more heat especially at highway speeds. More of an observation than determination.
Thanks! I was looking on auto parts sites...
Volfy
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No problem. That's what I figured. FWIW, if the brakes are functioning normally, it is pretty rare for heat to become an issue in normal driving. You'd have to be street-driving really aggressively, or in mountain passes with long steep descents, for the brakes to get hot enough to have troubles.
You might have seen my posts in your perusal, but this one has a lot of pics of my own brake rotors for your reference: FAQ: Vibration under braking: warped rotors? NO!
Hard to beat Amazon Prime free delivery.
tdunn
Newish Member
Great. Thanks for the info. I've heard engineers say most passenger vehicles don't generate enough heat to warp rotors but it seems to be the default response from many mechanics and service techs. A lot of my driving is in the mountains and up/down 181 in North Carolina. That one is a fun winding road where I have enjoyed some highly spirited driving. I kept the OEM pads on for about 18K before going with the Yellows.No problem. That's what I figured. FWIW, if the brakes are functioning normally, it is pretty rare for heat to become an issue in normal driving. You'd have to be street-driving really aggressively, or in mountain passes with long steep descents, for the brakes to get hot enough to have troubles.
You might have seen my posts in your perusal, but this one has a lot of pics of my own brake rotors for your reference:
Hard to beat Amazon Prime free delivery.
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
tdunn
Newish Member
BTW, the Yellowstuff 3068 pads I have are self seating so that shouldn't be the problem unless something didn't jive with the coating on the pad. Here is the procedure I did. Beyond that is for track use which I don't do.No problem. That's what I figured. FWIW, if the brakes are functioning normally, it is pretty rare for heat to become an issue in normal driving. You'd have to be street-driving really aggressively, or in mountain passes with long steep descents, for the brakes to get hot enough to have troubles.
You might have seen my posts in your perusal, but this one has a lot of pics of my own brake rotors for your reference:
Hard to beat Amazon Prime free delivery.
EBC Yellowstuff Bed-in Procedure
- Fast Street use Pre Bed Fade 1 – drive 50 to 100 miles on Public road/highway normal driving to allow the pads to mate up to the disc and establish full contact followed by 8 stops from 80 mph to 30 mph at 300-yard intervals and then coasting allowing the brakes to cool.
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Volfy
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The break-in layer does make seating the pads easy. It's essentially a fast wearing layer that helps the pad make full rotor contact very quickly.
The Bluestuff pads don't have that, so I basically had to inspect all 4 rotors after every drive, to check how the rotors are wearing. It isn't too difficult to tell of the pads are only making partial contact with the rotor, because the wear rings or wear pattern will not be covering the entire swept area of the rotor. Once they do, then I knew it was safe to proceed with the bedding in procedure. It's really not that complicated either way.
That said, IMO, the seating process is no less critical to good brake function/performance than proper bedding in.
