3.3TT DIY brake pad replacement experience

GRStinger

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Sorry for not having pics, but I hope the narrative is descriptive enough.
After 56,000 miles on my GT2 AWD, pads were down to 3-4mm on all 4 wheels. (The rotors are in surprisingly good shape). Of note, I had no fade or vibration on the old/OEM pads. I actually had a bit of a problem finding new pads, with a number of online retailers showing some of the prominently mentioned brands on back-order because of CV19-related supply chain problems. I wanted to get them asap, because I have a road-trip planned this weekend. Ended up ordering Centric Posi Quiet from Carid - they had just one set of fronts left in stock. I ordered them Friday, and got 'em delivered Monday. $125 plus $18 shipping and $8 tax for all 4 sets.

I'm an occasional DIY'er with limited time, tools, and talent to take on a lot of jobs, and while I've done a number of brake pad/rotor jobs on my other car's I didn't know what to expect with the Brembo's so I enlisted my gear-head brother to oversee the operation. Of note:
1 - you don't have to remove the calipers to remove the pad-clips or pads, as I have seen on one or two videos out there.
2 - caliper pins punched-out pretty easily - about a 1/8" pin punch, but you have to compress the pin-clips a bit to pull them all the way out. Did it by hand.
3 - The fronts took a bit more work. The clip removal was a little tricky, but with properly/evenly compressing the pads/pistons, you can work them out. I compressed with a hand slide-clamp.
4 - Pad plates on both of the rears were corroded and didn't come out with the pad. But just a little pry with a screw driver got 'em out. Used generous amounts of spray brake-cleaner to clear the debris.
5 - Tolerances are close. A couple of the new pad plate stampings had a raised edged that didn't want to clear the caliper slot, so needed to file a little to 'ramp' on the raised spot. And after applying brake grease on all the non-pad contact points, they went in OK.
6 - Installing the new pads with the close tolerances takes properly compressing the pistons - evenly on the front dual pistons. Was able to do it with sliding hand clamp on front. On the backs, used about a 6" c-clamp with a piece of 1" wood to brace against the caliper housing. But it doesn't take a lot of pressure to compress.
7 - Getting the clip in. It seemed to work best to first 'thread' the bottom caliper pin in and through the slot of the caliper and clip, then just into the outside half of the caliper, then do the same on top. It'll take a bit of pressure by hand to compress the top of the clip to align the pin, then tap the pins back in. Was expecting a 'click' to know the pins were all the way in, didn't get that, but was able to 'bottom out' the pin with a couple taps with the pin-punch and hammer. (So weird that will all of the great automotive technology out there, that your brake pads are basically held in with spring-loaded nails).

Anyway, the project took about 2.5-3 hours. The pads set nicely after two gradual/firm stops from 50 mph, and after a couple days, they seem to bite nicely and are smooth as butta'. Gives me the confidence to do it solo next time... with pictures.
 
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I made a video of the replacement process, for anyone interested. This is for a G70, exact same Brembo brakes as the Stinger.



Hope this helps for anyone new to replacing pads themselves, in addition to @GRStinger 's description above.
 
It was a whole new experience for me too when I put my new rotors and pads on. I’d never worked on Brembo calipers before. I do have to say, much much easier than other designs.
 
I made a video of the replacement process, for anyone interested. This is for a G70, exact same Brembo brakes as the Stinger.



Hope this helps for anyone new to replacing pads themselves, in addition to @GRStinger 's description above.

Thank you so much for this. I bought some stoptech posiquiets for the front and rear, but have never had brembos before so I haven't installed them yet. Looks pretty simple! Thank you again!
 
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