3.3TT Colder Spark plug Advantages/Dissavantages

Angel

1000 Posts Club!
Joined
May 25, 2018
Messages
2,203
Reaction score
639
Points
118
Location
Illinois
I was to ask those that are running colder spark plugs.

What is the OEM heat range for spark plugs?

I was running Denso IKH24 which are 1 step colder than oem and I had 2 plugs go bad on me. I am tuned (JB4) and have WMI.

I purchased Denso IKH27 which are 2 step colder that oem. Is anyone running the Denso IKH27 had any issues with colder plugs?
 
It all depends on what you're putting into the chamber: people running E85 may not need to run a colder plug at all, as well as people on WMI. I run the stock plugs gapped down to .027 because E85 runs cooler and a colder plug serves no purpose when I'm running a 30% E85 mix. People on WMI will further drop combustion temps, leading to virtually no need to run colder plugs than stock, either.
 
It all depends on what you're putting into the chamber: people running E85 may not need to run a colder plug at all, as well as people on WMI. I run the stock plugs gapped down to .027 because E85 runs cooler and a colder plug serves no purpose when I'm running a 30% E85 mix. People on WMI will further drop combustion temps, leading to virtually no need to run colder plugs than stock, either.

LOL....

If I told you I fried the 2 plugs running WMI would you believe me? I don't run E85, I run 93 octane.

I have wmi but only use it on the track.

I guess I am trying to find out who is running the colder plugs and if they had any issues.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
______________________________
"Fried" doesn't mean they're not cold enough... A cracked or damaged spark plug can be caused by overloading the coil or improper gaps.

Though, if you're not running WMI most of the time but still going full throttle on 93, you could very well require a colder heat range. Just keep in mind a colder heat range isn't required to run daily driving: it's only when you're going hot and hard on the engine that a colder heat range reduces the chances of pre-ignition caused by hot spotting of the spark plug.

However: pre-ignition rarely "fries" a spark plug (remember, that thing is facing detonation thousands of times a minute, whether it happens when it sparks or not makes no difference to how it's designed to face detonation). Your issue may have nothing to do with heat range.
 
"Fried" doesn't mean they're not cold enough... A cracked or damaged spark plug can be caused by overloading the coil or improper gaps.

Though, if you're not running WMI most of the time but still going full throttle on 93, you could very well require a colder heat range. Just keep in mind a colder heat range isn't required to run daily driving: it's only when you're going hot and hard on the engine that a colder heat range reduces the chances of pre-ignition caused by hot spotting of the spark plug.

However: pre-ignition rarely "fries" a spark plug (remember, that thing is facing detonation thousands of times a minute, whether it happens when it sparks or not makes no difference to how it's designed to face detonation). Your issue may have nothing to do with heat range.


Avoiding pre detonation is only one of the advantages a colder plug offers you. They also allow you a larger spectrum for boost and timing advancements before the engine will pull timing due to knock ( yes I know knock is detonation, but they don't directly relate in this instance )

You're bang on though when it comes the heat range of the plug having little to do with it surviving being "fried", if we're agreeing that the damage isnt as a result of consistant pre detonation in the chamber. If its coil or gap related, the damage would happen regardless.

I was to ask those that are running colder spark plugs.

What is the OEM heat range for spark plugs?

I was running Denso IKH24 which are 1 step colder than oem and I had 2 plugs go bad on me. I am tuned (JB4) and have WMI.

I purchased Denso IKH27 which are 2 step colder that oem. Is anyone running the Denso IKH27 had any issues with colder plugs?

There is no disadvantage to running colder plugs. probably the least talked about, but equally important reasons to do so is the QUALITY of the plugs you'd be buying when you move into a colder iridium or copper plug. When compared to the factory plugs, its a no brainer even before you take into account the added benefit of additional protection from knock/detonation and the ability to push your tune/boost/timing further as a result.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
"Fried" doesn't mean they're not cold enough... A cracked or damaged spark plug can be caused by overloading the coil or improper gaps.

Though, if you're not running WMI most of the time but still going full throttle on 93, you could very well require a colder heat range. Just keep in mind a colder heat range isn't required to run daily driving: it's only when you're going hot and hard on the engine that a colder heat range reduces the chances of pre-ignition caused by hot spotting of the spark plug.

However: pre-ignition rarely "fries" a spark plug (remember, that thing is facing detonation thousands of times a minute, whether it happens when it sparks or not makes no difference to how it's designed to face detonation). Your issue may have nothing to do with heat range.

I changed my plugs yesterday. The car has been running fine.

I am hoping the colder plug will help when I go WOT occasionally or go to the track.

I agree I never had issues with my plugs on the past daily driving the car. When I daily drive the car I am usually on Map 0.

I am hoping the colder plugs will perform fine on daily driving and perform great when I push the car.

I am hoping that when I push the car in the future it does not happen.

Thanks for the info!
 
Avoiding pre detonation is only one of the advantages a colder plug offers you. They also allow you a larger spectrum for boost and timing advancements before the engine will pull timing due to knock ( yes I know knock is detonation, but they don't directly relate in this instance )

You're bang on though when it comes the heat range of the plug having little to do with it surviving being "fried", if we're agreeing that the damage isnt as a result of consistant pre detonation in the chamber. If its coil or gap related, the damage would happen regardless.



There is no disadvantage to running colder plugs. probably the least talked about, but equally important reasons to do so is the QUALITY of the plugs you'd be buying when you move into a colder iridium or copper plug. When compared to the factory plugs, its a no brainer even before you take into account the added benefit of additional protection from knock/detonation and the ability to push your tune/boost/timing further as a result.

There is a disadvantage: in daily driving, colder plugs foul out much quicker. Colder plugs generally lack the ability to, erhm, "clean" themselves off at lower engine loads which seems to be the easiest way I can put this without nerding out about burning off deposits, lol
 
Avoiding pre detonation is only one of the advantages a colder plug offers you. They also allow you a larger spectrum for boost and timing advancements before the engine will pull timing due to knock ( yes I know knock is detonation, but they don't directly relate in this instance )

You're bang on though when it comes the heat range of the plug having little to do with it surviving being "fried", if we're agreeing that the damage isnt as a result of consistant pre detonation in the chamber. If its coil or gap related, the damage would happen regardless.



There is no disadvantage to running colder plugs. probably the least talked about, but equally important reasons to do so is the QUALITY of the plugs you'd be buying when you move into a colder iridium or copper plug. When compared to the factory plugs, its a no brainer even before you take into account the added benefit of additional protection from knock/detonation and the ability to push your tune/boost/timing further as a result.

I agree I don't think my issue with the plugs was improper gap or the coil. I think it was the increased boost pressure hen I ran WMI and did the WOT pulls. After that is when the car misfired.

I installed my plugs yesterday and car has been running good so far, gapped them to .024.

I am hoping that the colder plugs will help I go WOT on wmi or Map 5.
 
There is a disadvantage: in daily driving, colder plugs foul out much quicker. Colder plugs generally lack the ability to, erhm, "clean" themselves off at lower engine loads which seems to be the easiest way I can put this without nerding out about burning off deposits, lol


That's an extreme reach at best. I could see this being an issue with a copper plug that isn't meant to last as long, but a high end iridium plug stands up to the elements its designed to work with very well. Carrots help to avoid cataracts, but have been suggested to cause eye cancer, so anything is possible I guess.
 
That's an extreme reach at best. I could see this being an issue with a copper plug that isn't meant to last as long, but a high end iridium plug stands up to the elements its designed to work with very well. Carrots help to avoid cataracts, but have been suggested to cause eye cancer, so anything is possible I guess.

Carbon fouling has nothing to do with the quality of the parts, hence me not wanting to nerd out and explain this, and everything to do with deposit burn off temperatures. Colder plugs under daily driving not only take longer to reach operating temperature, but because more heat is drawn away, they don't always get hot enough to burn off carbon deposits. It is a generally known fact that running colder plugs, especially around 2 heat ranges, will see a shortened lifespan on a daily driven vehicle due to carbon build-up. The easiest way for Angel to monitor this is to simply pull the plug out at 10k miles and look at it. If it's covered in black, he risks misfires if the carbon build up continues. Performance modifying vehicles is fun and all, but as the saying goes, "the devil's in the details". I've dealt with choosing spark plug ranges and gapping over the course of three vehicles, the past two over 150k miles combined using colder spark plugs (one was two heat ranges colder because of a supercharger, the other only one heat range colder as it was NA but on a moderately aggressive tune), I'm not spitting out Google results here, lol
 
______________________________
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Carbon fouling has nothing to do with the quality of the parts, hence me not wanting to nerd out and explain this, and everything to do with deposit burn off temperatures. Colder plugs under daily driving not only take longer to reach operating temperature, but because more heat is drawn away, they don't always get hot enough to burn off carbon deposits. It is a generally known fact that running colder plugs, especially around 2 heat ranges, will see a shortened lifespan on a daily driven vehicle due to carbon build-up. The easiest way for Angel to monitor this is to simply pull the plug out at 10k miles and look at it. If it's covered in black, he risks misfires if the carbon build up continues. Performance modifying vehicles is fun and all, but as the saying goes, "the devil's in the details". I've dealt with choosing spark plug ranges and gapping over the course of three vehicles, the past two over 150k miles combined using colder spark plugs (one was two heat ranges colder because of a supercharger, the other only one heat range colder as it was NA but on a moderately aggressive tune), I'm not spitting out Google results here, lol

So you recommend I check the plugs every 10k or so?

I don't have an issue checking my plugs. I just want to make sure that I take the necessary precautions. Other than that I would be good with the colder plugs?
 
Carbon fouling has nothing to do with the quality of the parts, hence me not wanting to nerd out and explain this, and everything to do with deposit burn off temperatures. Colder plugs under daily driving not only take longer to reach operating temperature, but because more heat is drawn away, they don't always get hot enough to burn off carbon deposits. It is a generally known fact that running colder plugs, especially around 2 heat ranges, will see a shortened lifespan on a daily driven vehicle due to carbon build-up. The easiest way for Angel to monitor this is to simply pull the plug out at 10k miles and look at it. If it's covered in black, he risks misfires if the carbon build up continues. Performance modifying vehicles is fun and all, but as the saying goes, "the devil's in the details". I've dealt with choosing spark plug ranges and gapping over the course of three vehicles, the past two over 150k miles combined using colder spark plugs (one was two heat ranges colder because of a supercharger, the other only one heat range colder as it was NA but on a moderately aggressive tune), I'm not spitting out Google results here, lol

If you want to generalize topics, I can play that game all day. To suggest the Stinger has a bigger carbon build up issue than other vehicles before it, thus making that topic even remotely relevant isn't fair as the platform is too young to know for sure.

Things to consider before making statements like this in the future

1. It's a turbo vehicle, the operating temp of the plugs is reached before the vehicle is at its operating temperature, therefore anyone running the vehicle excessively in that time frame ( which is tiny ) are putting themselves into any issues that arise from it.

2. Carbon build up inside of engines as a whole, not just the chambers, is common place in all petroleum powered combustion engines. It's a by product of the carbon based fuel of course.

3. Colder plugs burn MORE efficiently, and the same argument can be made in the reserve that would suggest the more efficient burn would produce LESS carbon build up in the mainfolds over time.

4. Of course a colder plug, which is almost always used in a higher power/ more timing/. more boost/ more internal pressure scenario is going to have a shorter life span than say a Platinum plug that isn't put under the same conditions. Sadly, this self collapsing argument flames out when you realize how irrelevant the comparison of life span is (suggestively) because the plugs you're using to compare to the colder plugs are being changed out due to their own short comings.

5. Hes running a high octane mixture, if I really need to explain to you how higher octane / cleaner fuels help remove carbon deposits then its really safe to assume there are larger issues at play here.

If you want a list of the vehicles and motors I've modified over the last 10 years I'll gladly provide it to you, but its much more expansive than 3, and when you combine those with my 15 years of experience in both the performance parts industry, and the OEM parts and service industry, I think it's pretty safe to say I'm not "spitting out google results" here.
 
If you want to generalize topics, I can play that game all day. To suggest the Stinger has a bigger carbon build up issue than other vehicles before it, thus making that topic even remotely relevant isn't fair as the platform is too young to know for sure.

Things to consider before making statements like this in the future

1. It's a turbo vehicle, the operating temp of the plugs is reached before the vehicle is at its operating temperature, therefore anyone running the vehicle excessively in that time frame ( which is tiny ) are putting themselves into any issues that arise from it.

2. Carbon build up inside of engines as a whole, not just the chambers, is common place in all petroleum powered combustion engines. It's a by product of the carbon based fuel of course.

3. Colder plugs burn MORE efficiently, and the same argument can be made in the reserve that would suggest the more efficient burn would produce LESS carbon build up in the mainfolds over time.

4. Of course a colder plug, which is almost always used in a higher power/ more timing/. more boost/ more internal pressure scenario is going to have a shorter life span than say a Platinum plug that isn't put under the same conditions. Sadly, this self collapsing argument flames out when you realize how irrelevant the comparison of life span is (suggestively) because the plugs you're using to compare to the colder plugs are being changed out due to their own short comings.

5. Hes running a high octane mixture, if I really need to explain to you how higher octane / cleaner fuels help remove carbon deposits then its really safe to assume there are larger issues at play here.

If you want a list of the vehicles and motors I've modified over the last 10 years I'll gladly provide it to you, but its much more expansive than 3, and when you combine those with my 15 years of experience in both the performance parts industry, and the OEM parts and service industry, I think it's pretty safe to say I'm not "spitting out google results" here.

Canada will win game 1 of the Finals!

Canada wins this one LOL
 
So you recommend I check the plugs every 10k or so?

I don't have an issue checking my plugs. I just want to make sure that I take the necessary precautions. Other than that I would be good with the colder plugs?

Definitely check them every 10k or so. Running colder plugs requires monitoring.

If you want to generalize topics, I can play that game all day. To suggest the Stinger has a bigger carbon build up issue than other vehicles before it, thus making that topic even remotely relevant isn't fair as the platform is too young to know for sure.

Things to consider before making statements like this in the future

1. It's a turbo vehicle, the operating temp of the plugs is reached before the vehicle is at its operating temperature, therefore anyone running the vehicle excessively in that time frame ( which is tiny ) are putting themselves into any issues that arise from it.

2. Carbon build up inside of engines as a whole, not just the chambers, is common place in all petroleum powered combustion engines. It's a by product of the carbon based fuel of course.

3. Colder plugs burn MORE efficiently, and the same argument can be made in the reserve that would suggest the more efficient burn would produce LESS carbon build up in the mainfolds over time.

4. Of course a colder plug, which is almost always used in a higher power/ more timing/. more boost/ more internal pressure scenario is going to have a shorter life span than say a Platinum plug that isn't put under the same conditions. Sadly, this self collapsing argument flames out when you realize how irrelevant the comparison of life span is (suggestively) because the plugs you're using to compare to the colder plugs are being changed out due to their own short comings.

5. Hes running a high octane mixture, if I really need to explain to you how higher octane / cleaner fuels help remove carbon deposits then its really safe to assume there are larger issues at play here.

If you want a list of the vehicles and motors I've modified over the last 10 years I'll gladly provide it to you, but its much more expansive than 3, and when you combine those with my 15 years of experience in both the performance parts industry, and the OEM parts and service industry, I think it's pretty safe to say I'm not "spitting out google results" here.

Who said I've only worked on 3 cars? I've KEPT my cars that long, which lends towards repeated experience over longevity/miles. I also have 15+ years of experience modding cars. I'm happy to be wrong and be given knowledge, but right now, this is not one of those cases. You don't seem to have worked with spark plugs or boosted engines enough. You just assumed that because it's forced induction, it runs hot enough all the time which is not correct. What you don't realize is that the car is not always pushing large amounts of boost (it's like you don't know there's a wastegate and a BPV/BOV). I have been clear as day saying "daily driving". It is common on all engines that significantly colder plugs (again, generally beginning around 2 heat ranges) have increased carbon build up on them from daily driving. This is for anyone, on any combustion engine, NA or boosted. Your knowledge here seems to be limited to constant WOT/high RPM situations as all your numbered points inadvertently refer to without realizing it. You think that extra 10 degrees of timing means anything at 15% throttle going 30MPH through the neighborhood? You think that 17psi of boost is getting him from his driveway to the on ramp to get to work? If he has a long enough commute, that could assist in cleaning deposits off, but daily driving will always see increased carbon deposits on colder spark plugs. This is a repeatable known, and why selecting the right heat range is so important.

You really are Googling a lot of this, I'd almost swear by it. You're saying all kinds of things all over the place that aren't even related like you're trying to prove you know something. You talk as if I or anyone else doesn't know that carbon is a result of the combustion process. You talk about higher octane like it has anything to do with the detergents and chemicals added to fuel to assist in cleaning (lol), and you act as if the exhaust having carbon build up correlates to what's happening on top of the spark plug (lol, where do you think the burned off carbon goes?). I've already put 6k miles on a LAP3 Pro in Mode 2 on stock spark plugs gapped to .027". Meanwhile, everywhere suggests I do two heat ranges colder. But instead of just reading things on the internet, I know that E85 runs cooler, so I tested my theory. I plopped two heat ranges colder in there (HKS plugs, GOOD quality stuff), and in just 1k miles of daily driving, a little bit of black soot was already forming. Went back to my stock plugs, and they show no signs of build up or pre-ignition hot spots from WOT runs. It's things like this that come from experience that allow me to adjust what I'm doing rather than just regurgitate things I read somewhere. I could probably go one heat range colder for "safety" if I wanted, but what's the point? I'm at the right heat range now that's balanced perfectly between daily driving and WOT Mustang shaming :rofl: It is why I posted what I did to help the OP, where you came in with some sort of argumentative nature that is not helping anyone at all...
 
Definitely check them every 10k or so. Running colder plugs requires monitoring.



Who said I've only worked on 3 cars? I've KEPT my cars that long, which lends towards repeated experience over longevity/miles. I also have 15+ years of experience modding cars. I'm happy to be wrong and be given knowledge, but right now, this is not one of those cases. You don't seem to have worked with spark plugs or boosted engines enough. You just assumed that because it's forced induction, it runs hot enough all the time which is not correct. What you don't realize is that the car is not always pushing large amounts of boost (it's like you don't know there's a wastegate and a BPV/BOV). I have been clear as day saying "daily driving". It is common on all engines that significantly colder plugs (again, generally beginning around 2 heat ranges) have increased carbon build up on them from daily driving. This is for anyone, on any combustion engine, NA or boosted. Your knowledge here seems to be limited to constant WOT/high RPM situations as all your numbered points inadvertently refer to without realizing it. You think that extra 10 degrees of timing means anything at 15% throttle going 30MPH through the neighborhood? You think that 17psi of boost is getting him from his driveway to the on ramp to get to work? If he has a long enough commute, that could assist in cleaning deposits off, but daily driving will always see increased carbon deposits on colder spark plugs. This is a repeatable known, and why selecting the right heat range is so important.

You really are Googling a lot of this, I'd almost swear by it. You're saying all kinds of things all over the place that aren't even related like you're trying to prove you know something. You talk as if I or anyone else doesn't know that carbon is a result of the combustion process. You talk about higher octane like it has anything to do with the detergents and chemicals added to fuel to assist in cleaning (lol), and you act as if the exhaust having carbon build up correlates to what's happening on top of the spark plug (lol, where do you think the burned off carbon goes?). I've already put 6k miles on a LAP3 Pro in Mode 2 on stock spark plugs gapped to .027". Meanwhile, everywhere suggests I do two heat ranges colder. But instead of just reading things on the internet, I know that E85 runs cooler, so I tested my theory. I plopped two heat ranges colder in there (HKS plugs, GOOD quality stuff), and in just 1k miles of daily driving, a little bit of black soot was already forming. Went back to my stock plugs, and they show no signs of build up or pre-ignition hot spots from WOT runs. It's things like this that come from experience that allow me to adjust what I'm doing rather than just regurgitate things I read somewhere. I could probably go one heat range colder for "safety" if I wanted, but what's the point? I'm at the right heat range now that's balanced perfectly between daily driving and WOT Mustang shaming :rofl: It is why I posted what I did to help the OP, where you came in with some sort of argumentative nature that is not helping anyone at all...

I am going to stay out of this one as I am not intelligent enough or a good enough writer to get into this discussion.

So the only negative is getting bad plugs sooner rather later. This would not damage my car or any other components correct?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I am going to stay out of this one as I am not intelligent enough or a good enough writer to get into this discussion.

So the only negative is getting bad plugs sooner rather later. This would not damage my car or any other components correct?

Well, the plug doesn't go bad, it just gets carbon build up on it which can cause misfires if left completely ignored. By itself, it doesn't damage anything else, but misfires can do all kinds of bad things, lol

If you want to extend the usability of colder plugs, this might come as a surprise, but run the car hard every now and then. I did that on my old supercharged car because it would get it hot enough to clean the two heat range colder plugs off a bit. I actually assume you will do that every now and then anyway, lol
 
______________________________
Definitely check them every 10k or so. Running colder plugs requires monitoring.



Who said I've only worked on 3 cars? I've KEPT my cars that long, which lends towards repeated experience over longevity/miles. I also have 15+ years of experience modding cars. I'm happy to be wrong and be given knowledge, but right now, this is not one of those cases. You don't seem to have worked with spark plugs or boosted engines enough. You just assumed that because it's forced induction, it runs hot enough all the time which is not correct. What you don't realize is that the car is not always pushing large amounts of boost (it's like you don't know there's a wastegate and a BPV/BOV). I have been clear as day saying "daily driving". It is common on all engines that significantly colder plugs (again, generally beginning around 2 heat ranges) have increased carbon build up on them from daily driving. This is for anyone, on any combustion engine, NA or boosted. Your knowledge here seems to be limited to constant WOT/high RPM situations as all your numbered points inadvertently refer to without realizing it. You think that extra 10 degrees of timing means anything at 15% throttle going 30MPH through the neighborhood? You think that 17psi of boost is getting him from his driveway to the on ramp to get to work? If he has a long enough commute, that could assist in cleaning deposits off, but daily driving will always see increased carbon deposits on colder spark plugs. This is a repeatable known, and why selecting the right heat range is so important.

You really are Googling a lot of this, I'd almost swear by it. You're saying all kinds of things all over the place that aren't even related like you're trying to prove you know something. You talk as if I or anyone else doesn't know that carbon is a result of the combustion process. You talk about higher octane like it has anything to do with the detergents and chemicals added to fuel to assist in cleaning (lol), and you act as if the exhaust having carbon build up correlates to what's happening on top of the spark plug (lol, where do you think the burned off carbon goes?). I've already put 6k miles on a LAP3 Pro in Mode 2 on stock spark plugs gapped to .027". Meanwhile, everywhere suggests I do two heat ranges colder. But instead of just reading things on the internet, I know that E85 runs cooler, so I tested my theory. I plopped two heat ranges colder in there (HKS plugs, GOOD quality stuff), and in just 1k miles of daily driving, a little bit of black soot was already forming. Went back to my stock plugs, and they show no signs of build up or pre-ignition hot spots from WOT runs. It's things like this that come from experience that allow me to adjust what I'm doing rather than just regurgitate things I read somewhere. I could probably go one heat range colder for "safety" if I wanted, but what's the point? I'm at the right heat range now that's balanced perfectly between daily driving and WOT Mustang shaming :rofl: It is why I posted what I did to help the OP, where you came in with some sort of argumentative nature that is not helping anyone at all...

Who said you said you only worked on 3 cars? I specifically talked about you mentioning 3 vehicles you've owned... is reading comprehension that hard for you everyday? Or is this a mid week thing ?

I never assume anything, unlike yourself ( you mention you assume a couple of times in the thread and also make suggestions about myself that couldn't be further from the truth that you'd almost swear by ) An engine being at operating temperature is also not a hard theory to understand. Believe it or not, for your coolant to read in the 180*F + range, the engine needs to be much warmer. Being that the spark plugs are inside the engine.... I think even you can see where I'm going with this.

Daily Driving is defined as driving one does consistently, nearly everyday. No where in the definition of daily driving does it suggest that its stop & go, low speeds, or the distance at which is traveled ( or the speeds ). While your only defense to being shown up time and time again is to suggest I'm using google in making you look uneducated time and time again, I think you yourself would be well served spending some time on it.

My reference to carbon being apart of the combustion process is a meant to be an intelligent way of slighting you. The fact you don't recognize that, just furthers the need for it in the first place. Your confirmation on its necessity is appreciated.

I act as if .... that's an interesting statement from someone referencing something I typed, that they read, through a computer... Remind me again why you have issues seeing comparisons used to show you how irrelevant your points are ? Outside of the obvious of course.. Obviously carbon in the chamber and carbon in the manifolds aren't related, thus why I never related the 2. IF, and its a big if, you could read, you would have read me pointing out that the colder plugs run more efficiently, so what minor carbon build up they may add, its more than offset by the reduction in carbon other parts will have build up.

Are the factory plugs the same material as the colder Iridium plugs? No? Then shut up about your "personal comparison" based on a small sample size between 2 very different products both is design and material.

Did you ask what the "point" of doing something to improve the "safety" of your investment is ? Do us all a favor, go into your account settings asap and deactivate your account. You've made it abundantly clear you are not well, and need to spend your time getting better before returning and attempting to contribute. "Whats the point of doing a cheap yet effective change out of parts, that at worst offer more protection to the second largest purchase I'll statistically make in my lifetime" ( a house is #1 if you aren't able to deduct that yourself ).

Nothing you posted after my reply has been helpful what so ever. You spewed out inaccurate, at best only personally confirmed opinions based on small sample size tests you performed in uncontrolled environments. Nothing about that is valuable to anyone, you do understand that research, and development as a general term mean right? Or how the science of a test at its most basic definition is supposed to work when done effectively right? or?

TL/DR, You're an idiot, your logic is flawed based on small sample size tests you performed yourself without controlling variables or doing multiple ones to eliminate error/chance. On top of that, you have no actual knowledge, assume multiple times that others are assuming ( you used the word assume ), and are only able to provide evidence of how out of your comfort zone anything related to vehicles puts you, and how badly you "perform" as a result.
 
I am going to stay out of this one as I am not intelligent enough or a good enough writer to get into this discussion.

So the only negative is getting bad plugs sooner rather later. This would not damage my car or any other components correct?


Spark plugs should be replaced at intervals, and there is no science as to when or why, outside of a rough guideline most manufacturers give you for the factory plug replacement. There are too many variables to consider, especially on modified cars with af plugs. Checking them and changing them when needed is simply logic, and the life span because of this, is irrelevant despite what zyro says
 
Who said you said you only worked on 3 cars? I specifically talked about you mentioning 3 vehicles you've owned... is reading comprehension that hard for you everyday? Or is this a mid week thing ?

I never assume anything, unlike yourself ( you mention you assume a couple of times in the thread and also make suggestions about myself that couldn't be further from the truth that you'd almost swear by ) An engine being at operating temperature is also not a hard theory to understand. Believe it or not, for your coolant to read in the 180*F + range, the engine needs to be much warmer. Being that the spark plugs are inside the engine.... I think even you can see where I'm going with this.

Daily Driving is defined as driving one does consistently, nearly everyday. No where in the definition of daily driving does it suggest that its stop & go, low speeds, or the distance at which is traveled ( or the speeds ). While your only defense to being shown up time and time again is to suggest I'm using google in making you look uneducated time and time again, I think you yourself would be well served spending some time on it.

My reference to carbon being apart of the combustion process is a meant to be an intelligent way of slighting you. The fact you don't recognize that, just furthers the need for it in the first place. Your confirmation on its necessity is appreciated.

I act as if .... that's an interesting statement from someone referencing something I typed, that they read, through a computer... Remind me again why you have issues seeing comparisons used to show you how irrelevant your points are ? Outside of the obvious of course.. Obviously carbon in the chamber and carbon in the manifolds aren't related, thus why I never related the 2. IF, and its a big if, you could read, you would have read me pointing out that the colder plugs run more efficiently, so what minor carbon build up they may add, its more than offset by the reduction in carbon other parts will have build up.

Are the factory plugs the same material as the colder Iridium plugs? No? Then shut up about your "personal comparison" based on a small sample size between 2 very different products both is design and material.

Did you ask what the "point" of doing something to improve the "safety" of your investment is ? Do us all a favor, go into your account settings asap and deactivate your account. You've made it abundantly clear you are not well, and need to spend your time getting better before returning and attempting to contribute. "Whats the point of doing a cheap yet effective change out of parts, that at worst offer more protection to the second largest purchase I'll statistically make in my lifetime" ( a house is #1 if you aren't able to deduct that yourself ).

Nothing you posted after my reply has been helpful what so ever. You spewed out inaccurate, at best only personally confirmed opinions based on small sample size tests you performed in uncontrolled environments. Nothing about that is valuable to anyone, you do understand that research, and development as a general term mean right? Or how the science of a test at its most basic definition is supposed to work when done effectively right? or?

TL/DR, You're an idiot, your logic is flawed based on small sample size tests you performed yourself without controlling variables or doing multiple ones to eliminate error/chance. On top of that, you have no actual knowledge, assume multiple times that others are assuming ( you used the word assume ), and are only able to provide evidence of how out of your comfort zone anything related to vehicles puts you, and how badly you "perform" as a result.

I skimmed most of what you said because I know you have nothing left to offer. Reading your TL DR jumping to name-calling immediately tells me where you stand: you're an internet mechanic; you haven't spent significant time on these things. So you search the internet for things that you feel back you up without having the time and experience yourself. It really shows in this thread.
 
I skimmed most of what you said because I know you have nothing left to offer. Reading your TL DR jumping to name-calling immediately tells me where you stand: you're an internet mechanic; you haven't spent significant time on these things. So you search the internet for things that you feel back you up without having the time and experience yourself. It really shows in this thread.

Name calling would suggest I used it as a noun, and not to describe you.. Again, your reading comprehension and basic knowledge fail you, but I have a sneaky suspicion you're acclimated to it.

The topic at hand, is spark plugs, not the stinger kiddo. So I have in fact spent significant time "on these things". I changed the spark plugs, as a part of the full or partial build in the following vehicles, since you seem to think going back to your one lousy argument of me using google is refusing to die the painful death it deserves.

2005 Ion Redline (stage 5 with wmi injection)
2006 Mazdaspeed 6 turbo back, accessport
2004 Neon SRT-4 Diabloe stage 2 protune, fully bolted
2005 Neon SRT-4 stage 3+ Mopar kit
2009 Mazdaspeed 3. Fully bolted + water meth on pro tune + Fuel pump internals
2009 Mitsubishi Ralliart (first year of the 2.0T AWD) Evo x turbo swapped, first in Canada to do so. 320 whp 370 torque. 181whp stock on same dyno ( hub mount dynodynamics )
2009 WRX 265 sedan. Fully bolted, torqued performance tune
2010 Evolution x turbo back, intake, IC + piping + Cobb stage 2 +hffp + email tuner refinements
2010 STI (fully built 480whp on a dynodynamics ((221whp stock on that dyno)) )
2012 Evo x ( FP red, tuned, hffp fully bolted )
2014 Audi s4 Fuel pump internals (apr stage 2+)
2017 Golf R (Eurodyne tune, fully bolted)
2018 Durango RT ( full exhaust, intake, tune )
Now the stinger. I know though, google right? ROFL
 
Last edited:
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Back
Top