Car Hifi Upgrade JL Audio

[TheSting]

Here are some CarHifi pics of the install. I have about 230 pics, so i had to choose only a few:

The main goal was a "hidden" install and the option to get the car OEM later again. Further, i want to keep all comfort features of the Stinger Headunit (volume, next song, etc.). For better result, i am thinking about to connect a handy direct to the JL System, to avoid the terrible Headunit.

I had to order a new pair of A-pillars (86Dollars each). So I can switch the Stinger to 100% OEM now, if needed in the future.

The hardware:

- JL Audio VXi-BTC | Bluetooth® Communicator
- JL Audio DRC 205
- JL Audio VXi Hub
- JL Audio VX 1000/1i
- 2x JL Audio VX 600/6i
- JL Audio 13TW5 v2 /Subwoofer
- HERTZ Mille Legend ML 1650.3 Comp Woofer (Front)
- HERTZ Mille Legend ML 700.3 Comp Midrange (Front)
- HERTZ Mille Legend ML 280.3 Comp Tweeter (Front)
- HERTZ Mille Pro MPK 163.3 Three Way System (Backseats)

 

[TheSting]

and some more Pics:

 

[brancky3]

Very well done! How does it sound?

 

[cornpop1]

beautiful!

 

[Revvdmedia]

Pretty much porn, for audiophiles.

 

[MrSmoofy]

WOW

 

[ST1276]

Wow! This is a very impressive setup! It's also very very expensive! I am aiming to accomplish a similar end result on a much smaller budget. I want to just use the Audiocontrol LC7i (your amps have a fancy dsp built in to get you perfect sound quality and time alignment). But not sure what to tap to get a full range signal. My other option is also using a LC2i. The LC2i can handle my mono amp. Then i can use a LC7i and tap the front tweeters, midrange, and midbass in the front doors. Can anyone verify that would work? Can it all be done off just the LC7i? I want to have the bass restoration feature that's why i can't use the LC8i.

 

[rbjohnson78]

@TheSting So how you have it now, it doesn't have OEM integration, this is completely separate from the head unit?

 

[rbjohnson78]

Wow! This is a very impressive setup! It's also very very expensive! I am aiming to accomplish a similar end result on a much smaller budget. I want to just use the Audiocontrol LC7i (your amps have a fancy dsp built in to get you perfect sound quality and time alignment). But not sure what to tap to get a full range signal. My other option is also using a LC2i. The LC2i can handle my mono amp. Then i can use a LC7i and tap the front tweeters, midrange, and midbass in the front doors. Can anyone verify that would work? Can it all be done off just the LC7i? I want to have the bass restoration feature that's why i can't use the LC8i.

I'll see if I can find the post again, but I was thinking of doing the same thing. The person used the sub output and the midbass to sum the signal, but it wasn't perfect from his perspective. The sub volume didn't match the output of the speakers and he had to use the sub remote knob to adjust the level when changing the volume. The sub seemed to be louder than the speakers at low volume, and then as he turned the volume up, he had to raise the sub level up. Sounded almost like loudness button that is on some decks to me. However, I had a similar experience with a sub and amp I had been using. I'd have to fiddle with the sub remote to balance the sub and speakers. After I switched the sub and amp, it was a night and day difference.

 

[Aarvix]

Necro-ing this thread because this system deserves more attention, beautiful install.

Also, @TheSting did you ever determine how your installer interfaced with the stock head unit? Did they retain the stock amp at all? Do your OEM volume controls work?