Bleeding 3.3L engine coolant the hard/easy way.

dragono

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Hey guys I thought I’d share my experience bleeding the coolant on my 18 Kia stinger gt2.

First a little backstory I picked this car up salvage to fix and had some front end damage. Radiator was busted and had to be replaced which leads me to why I’m bleeding the coolant.

At first I did my usual method of filling up the radiator, starting the car and letting it bubble until it overflows. Shut off and we are done.
However, when I tried this I still had only
Like warm air out of the vents so I know I had an issue. I went to the kstinger.com website and looked at the factory refill instructions. To my surprise they essentially purged the system by sending a command to open the thermostat manually and running the car for 15 minutes or so.

Obviously I didn’t have a KDS tool so I couldn’t send any command to open anything other than through how the system was designed to
Operate.

So essentially to mimic these operations and to fully bleed the system I did the following.

- lift the car up enough to get a bucket or pan underneath the general area where the radiator cap is as it’s going to leak out and spill at times

- open the radiator cap and fill till radiator neck is full. (It looks full but she’s lying to you, there’s air bubbles all in the system!)

- I used an OBD tool to monitor the coolant temp (blue driver to be specific)

- start the car and turn it to max heat with air coming out of the vents vice the floor which it automatically switches to

- now the tedious part. Fill the coolant, watch half of it over spill out as bubbles are expounded. It’ll draw the coolant down. Then repeat and fill again till it’s at the radiator neck and about to over flow again. I mirrored the factory manual by revving the engine a few times by this may be super quick if you have a helper to intermittently rev while you monitor the radiator neck and fill as needed. (I didn’t)

- In any case fill , wait for bubbles, rev engine , fill , wait for bubble , watch it over flow, watch it draw down , fill ,rev ,watch for bubble/overflow until the following occur:

1- your heat actually starts producing very hot air
2- your radiator neck level should stabilize (when I concluded mine still had very small bubbles being expounded but no real change in level for 1-2 minutes even after revving)

-Once this occurs you’re golden! Reinstall your radiator cap and ride into the sunset.

I reused the coolant the overflowed but to strain it I placed Two clean rags into a funnel and passed the coolant through the rags before it went back into the container I was using
To fill. This way the sediment is caught. You could just toss the overflow coolant to be super safe but plan on have Atleast 1 extra gallon of
Coolant above what you estimate.

Warning/cautions
- don’t open hot radiator caps, let the car cool down
- yes this whole process is done with the cap off the whole time. I monitored my car temp via both the OBD tool and the gauge in the dash and it never got above 220.
- don’t put your face 6 inches above the radiator cap as it sometimes will splash this far up if you have a sizable air pocket being expounded.
- the coolant overflowing is going to be hot … so be careful 5BB439DC-A2EF-486D-8B13-074811EAA5F7.webpE9BD9F40-5238-4FEA-8A38-E98A4A179717.webp6D8C815C-0515-4E42-B9FB-79E93A4CAEC4.webp

Pictures attached just for reference
 
How long has it been since you did this procedure? I ask because I have replaced the coolant hoses with silicone versions and had issues until a shop found a "bleeder" valve and solved the problem. Then, completely unrelated, my radiator needed replacing and Kia did the work. Two weeks later, I began overheating. Even with the KDS tool, they didn't do it right the first time.
 
Two thoughts.

1) Try a lisle burping funnel
2) use a vacuum filler
 
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I did both my upper radiator hoses and the only way I could get all the air out was by squeezing both hoses quite a few times while the engine was warm(thermostat open). Fill radiator to full, squeeze both uppers a bunch and watch coolant level drop. Let car cool down and do it again, I probably did it about 6 times. Don't forget to fill the expansion tank to the fill line too.
 
Run it long enough for coolant to heat up and thermostat to open with that funnel attached to radiator. Dont forget to turn the heat on full power. Make sure your overflow tank is full. And add coolant to the level once it cools down. It takes longer without that kds tool, but is pretty straightforward 61Jkho0YFAL._SL1200_.jpg
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I've never bled the Stinger, but on another car I have, jacking-up the front end helps get rid of the trapped bubbles.
 
Circling back to this.

I noticed coolant (blue) in my overflow tank is extremely low - i have 30,000 miles on the car right now. Should I flush the coolant and add new coolant or just top it off?
 
Circling back to this.

I noticed coolant (blue) in my overflow tank is extremely low - i have 30,000 miles on the car right now. Should I flush the coolant and add new coolant or just top it off?
is it below the L? If yes, fill back up to the F line.

If it's between the L and the F - when cold, you good.

Screenshot_20221009_134809.webp

The coolant level should be filled between F and L marks on the coolant level gauge when the engine is cool.

If the coolant level is low, add enough specified coolant to provide protection against freezing and corrosion. Bring the level to F, but do not overfill. If frequent additions are required, see an authorized Kia dealer for a cooling system inspection.
 
Yes its about an 1.0-1.5 inch below the L line. I just ordered some 50/50 premix glycol base (HOAT) Amsoils coolant. Should I just top it off or flush the coolant completely?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
Yes its about an 1.0-1.5 inch below the L line. I just ordered some 50/50 premix glycol base (HOAT) Amsoils coolant. Should I just top it off or flush the coolant completely?
Up to you. Early maintenance isn't a bad thing.

Flushing it can't hurt, but the OEM coolant is supposed to last 200,000kms (120,000miles)
Screenshot_20221009_140304.webp
 
Yes its about an 1.0-1.5 inch below the L line. I just ordered some 50/50 premix glycol base (HOAT) Amsoils coolant. Should I just top it off or flush the coolant completely?
Is the coolant you ordered ethylene-glycol with phosphate? I am not familiar with hybrid coolants like HOAT

The engine in your vehicle has aluminum engine parts and must be protected by an ethylene-glycol with phosphate based coolant to prevent corrosion and freezing.


Some results from Google seem to recommend AGAINTS mixing HOAT coolant with yours OEM coolant.
Screenshot_20221009_141048.webp
 
I'd pop the radiator cap to ensure the level is proper there too.
 
I purchased both of these coolants - planning on using the Passenger Car & Light Truck variant (Yellow-Cap):

HOAT - Heavy Duty (Mistakenly purchased)
Ingredients:
Ethylene Glycol Base
Fully formulated: DOES NOT require the use of supplemental antifreeze/coolant additives (SCAs) or extenders
Protection up to 1,000,000 miles, 20,000 hours or 8 years, whichever comes first
Ethylene glycol 50/50 pre-mix formulation
Proprietary hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulation is further enhanced with anti-scalant, anti-fouling and water-pump lubrication additives
Phosphate-, nitrite-, silicate-, borate- and amine-free
Compatible with all other antifreeze and coolant colors
AMSoil_Coolant_Heavy_Duty.webp

OAT - Passenger car & Light Truck Use
Ingredients:
Ethylene Glycol Base
Unique poly-organic acid (OAT) formulation imparts multi-vehicle application
Engineered to exceed original equipment manufacturer (OEM) requirements
Protection up to 150,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first
Ethylene glycol 50/50 pre-mix formulation
Protects all cooling system metals, gaskets and hoses
Phosphate-, nitrate-, nitrite-, silicate-, borate- and amine-free
Compatible with all other antifreeze and coolant colors
AMSoil_Coolant_Passenger Car&Light Truck.webp
 
I'd pop the radiator cap to ensure the level is proper there too.
Dumb question but if i pop the cap does that introduce air into the system?
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
In to the system no, to volume between coolant level and top of radiator yes.
 
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I purchased both of these coolants - planning on using the Passenger Car & Light Truck variant (Yellow-Cap):

HOAT - Heavy Duty (Mistakenly purchased)
Ingredients:
Ethylene Glycol Base
Fully formulated: DOES NOT require the use of supplemental antifreeze/coolant additives (SCAs) or extenders
Protection up to 1,000,000 miles, 20,000 hours or 8 years, whichever comes first
Ethylene glycol 50/50 pre-mix formulation
Proprietary hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) formulation is further enhanced with anti-scalant, anti-fouling and water-pump lubrication additives
Phosphate-, nitrite-, silicate-, borate- and amine-free
Compatible with all other antifreeze and coolant colors
View attachment 75432

OAT - Passenger car & Light Truck Use
Ingredients:
Ethylene Glycol Base
Unique poly-organic acid (OAT) formulation imparts multi-vehicle application
Engineered to exceed original equipment manufacturer (OEM) requirements
Protection up to 150,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first
Ethylene glycol 50/50 pre-mix formulation
Protects all cooling system metals, gaskets and hoses
Phosphate-, nitrate-, nitrite-, silicate-, borate- and amine-free
Compatible with all other antifreeze and coolant colors
View attachment 75433
Both of those coolants claim to be phosphate free...

Kia says you need to use ethylene-glycol with phosphate. (Source = http://www.kstinger.com/engine_coolant-267.html)

Just something to consider.
 
Will this mean eventually air would enter the system overtime or will air always be pressurized to remain at the top/neck of the radiator?
 
There is constant movement of coolant between the radiator and reservoir.

From a fully cold state, as the coolant heats up it expands. Eventually it expands enough to slightly open the valve in the radiator cap. Small amount of coolant flows into the reservoir. In a properly filled system (radiator + res), coolant level will rise by a few oz in the res when the engine is at operating temp.

As the radiator cools down, coolant contracts. Eventually drawing a sufficient vacuum to open a different valve in the cap to suck fluid in.

The above happens with every engine operating system (warm up/cool down).

You need to examine the level in the radiator. It would surprise me if that's low too. How else you going to check the level without removing the cap? If the level in the radiator is low by a significant amount, then in addition to filling it to proper level you want to bleed the system as well.

Post a pic of what the rad level is.
 
From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
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