2 Post Lift Positioning

[Aero_Tech]

I'm working on the layout and positioning of a 10,000Lb 2 post lift for my garage. I'll be using my Stinger as a guide since every other vehicle is nowhere near as long lol. I'm trying to tweak the front to back spacing relative to my walls and was wondering if there is anyone else that has a lift (MaxJax, Bendpak etc) and where on the car you have the posts lined up with.

I'm thinking it should be at the front doors around the handle area. The arms have a huge range of extension but I want to make sure the initial positioning isn't too far forward or back. I've never had a vehicle (lowered or otherwise) that has been such a pain to jack up.

 

[Hawk853]

I'm working on the layout and positioning of a 10,000Lb 2 post lift for my garage. I'll be using my Stinger as a guide since every other vehicle is nowhere near as long lol. I'm trying to tweak the front to back spacing relative to my walls and was wondering if there is anyone else that has a lift (MaxJax, Bendpak etc) and where on the car you have the posts lined up with.

I'm thinking it should be at the front doors around the handle area. The arms have a huge range of extension but I want to make sure the initial positioning isn't too far forward or back. I've never had a vehicle (lowered or otherwise) that has been such a pain to jack up.

Measure center to center of the lift points and place a piece of painters tape on the door at the center line. Then you’ll have a reference point to determine placement.

 

[Aero_Tech]

Measure center to center of the lift points and place a piece of painters tape on the door at the center line. Then you’ll have a reference point to determine placement.

It would be nice to know where the CofG on the car is. They say the weight split is almost 50/50 but I'd still be inclined to have the posts biased more towards the front. The arms have a long extension range but it's still important that the balance is maintained as each arm is only rated to a certain weight. I'll try the tape method and see where I end up.

 

[Hawk853]

It would be nice to know where the CofG on the car is. They say the weight split is almost 50/50 but I'd still be inclined to have the posts biased more towards the front. The arms have a long extension range but it's still important that the balance is maintained as each arm is only rated to a certain weight. I'll try the tape method and see where I end up.

The lift points are spread so far apart you won’t run into any trouble splitting the difference.

 

[Aero_Tech]

The lift points are spread so far apart you won’t run into any trouble splitting the difference.

True. My biggest concern is running out of room at the front or back of the garage before I get the car properly lined up. I'll be using a screw-up under hoist stand to stabilize the back anyway but the more balanced it is the better.

The lift point spacing is so wide on this car and that's why I gave up on getting a Quickjack. The Maxjax is so bloody expensive up here a heavy duty full sized lift was actually cheaper and I'll actually be able to stand under it.

Curious to see how many of us Stinger Owners have a lift; do you have one? If so, which one?

 

[Hawk853]

True. My biggest concern is running out of room at the front or back of the garage before I get the car properly lined up. I'll be using a screw-up under hoist stand to stabilize the back anyway but the more balanced it is the better.

The lift point spacing is so wide on this car and that's why I gave up on getting a Quickjack. The Maxjax is so bloody expensive up here a heavy duty full sized lift was actually cheaper and I'll actually be able to stand under it.

Curious to see how many of us Stinger Owners have a lift; do you have one? If so, which one?

I’ve used three different two post lifts at shops and the dealer my friends work at. Also, one two post lift located at a military hobby shop physically wouldn’t swing underneath the car, the square tubing is to high profile. So make sure the arms and pads are low enough to clear.

At the base hobby shop I use a drive up lift for oil changes, exhaust install, stuff like that and I have to back it up the ramps since there’s not enough clearance at the front. I don’t even have a lip installed. Just H&R springs.

Even the lift my dealer has is slightly too high for the front lift points and I have to pick up at the fenders while my friend rotates the arms into position and adjusts the pads upward so the arms don’t oil can the running boards. The pads are threaded which is a really nice feature.

At home I have a quick Jack scissor style lift. They’re super heavy and kinda clunky but work great. Definitely not as versatile as a post lift though.

 

[Aero_Tech]

I’ve used three different two post lifts at shops and the dealer my friends work at. Also, one two post lift located at a military hobby shop physically wouldn’t swing underneath the car, the square tubing is to high profile. So make sure the arms and pads are low enough to clear.

At the base hobby shop I use a drive up lift for oil changes, exhaust install, stuff like that and I have to back it up the ramps since there’s not enough clearance at the front. I don’t even have a lip installed. Just H&R springs.

Even the lift my dealer has is slightly too high for the front lift points and I have to pick up at the fenders while my friend rotates the arms into position and adjusts the pads upward so the arms don’t oil can the running boards. The pads are threaded which is a really nice feature.

At home I have a quick Jack scissor style lift. They’re super heavy and kinda clunky but work great. Definitely not as versatile as a post lift though.

It's nice to have friends at a dealer lol. I had no idea there were military "hobby shops". That's a really cool thing to have access to. I don't think we have anything like that up here in Canada; at least none of my Military buddies ever mentioned it.

The posts are stood up but not bolted down. I temporarily installed both arms on one post and they do fit underneath. The pad is made slightly higher than the arm so it looks like it does not touch the skirt but actually may once the rubber gets compressed. I do have several different length spacers that came with it as well and I can manage to squeeze in the shortest one (1.5") so there's plenty of clearance for the side skirt after that.

I will order a set of screw up pads afterward as I don't want to keep swapping out spacers for different vehicles but they are on backorder like everything else on this planet and won't be available for months.

Btw, the centerline between lifting points is 33.75" which is approx 1" forward of the front of the door handles on the front doors. One thing that sucks though is not being able to open the front doors fully to do any sort of interior work. I'll have to roll the car forward or back to do that. I looked at asymmetric lifts for more door clearance but none would fit my ceiling height of 11 feet.

 

[Kodiack]

Where are you in Canada? Im in the Halifax Nova Scotia area and I have the quickjack TL5000, I just made a set of extensions for the Stinger.
I dont have any complaints, I didnt want to put in a permanent hoist because of the room they take. And I can throw the quickjack in the SUV and take it where ever I want. If you send me a pm I can send you some pics of the extensions I made, they are made of custom cut 2 x 6 s and rubber matting.

 

[Aero_Tech]

Where are you in Canada? Im in the Halifax Nova Scotia area and I have the quickjack TL5000, I just made a set of extensions for the Stinger.
I dont have any complaints, I didnt want to put in a permanent hoist because of the room they take. And I can throw the quickjack in the SUV and take it where ever I want. If you send me a pm I can send you some pics of the extensions I made, they are made of custom cut 2 x 6 s and rubber matting.

I'm in Toronto. I do believe I have everything sorted out now. Just need to finalize the post positions and drill for the the 3/4" Anchor Bolts.

 

[Hawk853]

It's nice to have friends at a dealer lol. I had no idea there were military "hobby shops". That's a really cool thing to have access to. I don't think we have anything like that up here in Canada; at least none of my Military buddies ever mentioned it.

The posts are stood up but not bolted down. I temporarily installed both arms on one post and they do fit underneath. The pad is made slightly higher than the arm so it looks like it does not touch the skirt but actually may once the rubber gets compressed. I do have several different length spacers that came with it as well and I can manage to squeeze in the shortest one (1.5") so there's plenty of clearance for the side skirt after that.

I will order a set of screw up pads afterward as I don't want to keep swapping out spacers for different vehicles but they are on backorder like everything else on this planet and won't be available for months.

Btw, the centerline between lifting points is 33.75" which is approx 1" forward of the front of the door handles on the front doors. One thing that sucks though is not being able to open the front doors fully to do any sort of interior work. I'll have to roll the car forward or back to do that. I looked at asymmetric lifts for more door clearance but none would fit my ceiling height of 11 feet.

I’m having a hard time imagining the lift you’re using. I was originally thinking you picked up something like this…

Are the arms so short the doors won’t open?

 

[Aero_Tech]

I’m having a hard time imagining the lift you’re using. I was originally thinking you picked up something like this…

Are the arms so short the doors won’t open?

Same type of lift but a floor plate version. This one:


It's not the arms that limit the opening of the doors (they're 3 stage arms that can go very long). Depending on how far forward or back you set the vehicle the lift columns will not allow the doors to open fully but that's the price you pay for lifts of this style. There are various models that are wider for larger vehicles or asymmetric versions that allow for more door clearance but that would be overkill for what I need as I don't have an abundance of room. The average width between the posts on these lifts is approx 112". The Stinger is 73" wide so that does not leave alot of room to open the front doors if parked directly parallel with the posts.

The pic you posted is a clear floor lift and those tend to be wider but they require a minimum ceiling height of 12' or more and I'm a foot short. Ideally a clear floor style lift is better but alot of people don't have the height in their shops and use a floor plate version instead due to shorter columns.

 

[Andy B]

Same type of lift but a floor plate version. This one:

View attachment 79770
It's not the arms that limit the opening of the doors (they're 3 stage arms that can go very long). Depending on how far forward or back you set the vehicle the lift columns will not allow the doors to open fully but that's the price you pay for lifts of this style. There are various models that are wider for larger vehicles or asymmetric versions that allow for more door clearance but that would be overkill for what I need as I don't have an abundance of room. The average width between the posts on these lifts is approx 112". The Stinger is 73" wide so that does not leave alot of room to open the front doors if parked directly parallel with the posts.

The pic you posted is a clear floor lift and those tend to be wider but they require a minimum ceiling height of 12' or more and I'm a foot short. Ideally a clear floor style lift is better but alot of people don't have the height in their shops and use a floor plate version instead due to shorter columns.

I've been using the Max Jax for several years now for the Stinger and my GS. I set mine up to have more room at the front of the car as that's where I do most of the work on them.

I went with the MaxJax because I only have a 10' ceiling in the garage.

 

[Hawk853]

Same type of lift but a floor plate version. This one:

View attachment 79770
It's not the arms that limit the opening of the doors (they're 3 stage arms that can go very long). Depending on how far forward or back you set the vehicle the lift columns will not allow the doors to open fully but that's the price you pay for lifts of this style. There are various models that are wider for larger vehicles or asymmetric versions that allow for more door clearance but that would be overkill for what I need as I don't have an abundance of room. The average width between the posts on these lifts is approx 112". The Stinger is 73" wide so that does not leave alot of room to open the front doors if parked directly parallel with the posts.

The pic you posted is a clear floor lift and those tend to be wider but they require a minimum ceiling height of 12' or more and I'm a foot short. Ideally a clear floor style lift is better but alot of people don't have the height in their shops and use a floor plate version instead due to shorter columns.

Awesome. Jealous.

I see now. I don’t think the door thing will be much of a concern. Has to open enough for you to get out after positioning the car.

I thought about getting the Max but my vintage garage floors aren’t up to the task.

 

[Aero_Tech]

I've been using the Max Jax for several years now for the Stinger and my GS. I set mine up to have more room at the front of the car as that's where I do most of the work on them.

I went with the MaxJax because I only have a 10' ceiling in the garage.

Nice clean setup . I love how you ran the hydraulic hose under the floor and that post mounted manfiold; that's impressive. I've got the same under hoist screw-up stand. First pic I've ever seen of a Stinger on a MaxJax.

I did originally consider one years ago but then put everything on hold due to other priorities. The latest version of the MaxJax is stupid expensive here in Canada since it's now part of Bendpak. They want $4K for it now (was $1800 in 2015). For that amount of money I was able to get a full size lift instead and luckily I had the clearance for it.

The posts for floor plate style lifts are 9 feet tall so you could fit something like that in your garage. Where relative to the door do you have the the posts lined up (i.e. between the handle & mirror)? Did you have any issues with spinning concrete anchors? That seems to be the most common problem with MaxJax installs when they get torqued down.

Edit: I just noticed you're in Ontario. Whereabouts? I'm in the 'Shwa.

Awesome. Jealous.

I see now. I don’t think the door thing will be much of a concern. Has to open enough for you to get out after positioning the car.

I thought about getting the Max but my vintage garage floors aren’t up to the task.

Lol thanks.

It does have rubber bumpers on the lift carriages to protect the doors but I still need to be careful. It's when I'm detailing the interior I'll have to roll it back so I can open the doors fully. Still can't get over how big this car is. My Genesis Coupe was a go-kart compared to this thing lol.

The MaxJax requires a minimum floor thickness of 4" and 3000psi compressive strength. A lot of non-commercial lifts only require a floor thickness of 4" but obviously the thicker the better. My lift requires 6" of concrete and when we bought the house I asked the builder to pour a thicker floor in anticipation of a lift install.

Your floor may be thick enough. You'd have to drill and test a spot. You could also get a concrete company to come in and cut out the sections where the posts will be mounted and have them pour thicker pads and tie them into the existing floor with rebar. It shouldn't cost too much. Only downside is you have to wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure prior to drilling it.

 

[Andy B]

Nice clean setup . I love how you ran the hydraulic hose under the floor and that post mounted manfiold; that's impressive. I've got the same under hoist screw-up stand. First pic I've ever seen of a Stinger on a MaxJax.

I did originally consider one years ago but then put everything on hold due to other priorities. The latest version of the MaxJax is stupid expensive here in Canada since it's now part of Bendpak. They want $4K for it now (was $1800 in 2015). For that amount of money I was able to get a full size lift instead and luckily I had the clearance for it.

The posts for floor plate style lifts are 9 feet tall so you could fit something like that in your garage. Where relative to the door do you have the the posts lined up (i.e. between the handle & mirror)? Did you have any issues with spinning concrete anchors? That seems to be the most common problem with MaxJax installs when they get torqued down.

Edit: I just noticed you're in Ontario. Whereabouts? I'm in the 'Shwa.



Lol thanks.

It does have rubber bumpers on the lift carriages to protect the doors but I still need to be careful. It's when I'm detailing the interior I'll have to roll it back so I can open the doors fully. Still can't get over how big this car is. My Genesis Coupe was a go-kart compared to this thing lol.

The MaxJax requires a minimum floor thickness of 4" and 3000psi compressive strength. A lot of non-commercial lifts only require a floor thickness of 4" but obviously the thicker the better. My lift requires 6" of concrete and when we bought the house I asked the builder to pour a thicker floor in anticipation of a lift install.

Your floor may be thick enough. You'd have to drill and test a spot. You could also get a concrete company to come in and cut out the sections where the posts will be mounted and have them pour thicker pads and tie them into the existing floor with rebar. It shouldn't cost too much. Only downside is you have to wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure prior to drilling it.

I'm in Sarnia.

I set the Stinger on the lift with the arms at equal length and lift on the factory lift points. I'm not sure where that lines up relative to the lift post and the door. I use a mark on the floor that lines up with the center of the front wheel.

I didn't use the supplied wedge anchors, I went the epoxy anchor route. I heard of too many people having issues with the supplied anchors.

Here are a couple of pictures of the install prep. 12" deep, pinned and keyed to the original pad.

 

[Hawk853]

Nice clean setup . I love how you ran the hydraulic hose under the floor and that post mounted manfiold; that's impressive. I've got the same under hoist screw-up stand. First pic I've ever seen of a Stinger on a MaxJax.

I did originally consider one years ago but then put everything on hold due to other priorities. The latest version of the MaxJax is stupid expensive here in Canada since it's now part of Bendpak. They want $4K for it now (was $1800 in 2015). For that amount of money I was able to get a full size lift instead and luckily I had the clearance for it.

The posts for floor plate style lifts are 9 feet tall so you could fit something like that in your garage. Where relative to the door do you have the the posts lined up (i.e. between the handle & mirror)? Did you have any issues with spinning concrete anchors? That seems to be the most common problem with MaxJax installs when they get torqued down.

Edit: I just noticed you're in Ontario. Whereabouts? I'm in the 'Shwa.



Lol thanks.

It does have rubber bumpers on the lift carriages to protect the doors but I still need to be careful. It's when I'm detailing the interior I'll have to roll it back so I can open the doors fully. Still can't get over how big this car is. My Genesis Coupe was a go-kart compared to this thing lol.

The MaxJax requires a minimum floor thickness of 4" and 3000psi compressive strength. A lot of non-commercial lifts only require a floor thickness of 4" but obviously the thicker the better. My lift requires 6" of concrete and when we bought the house I asked the builder to pour a thicker floor in anticipation of a lift install.

Your floor may be thick enough. You'd have to drill and test a spot. You could also get a concrete company to come in and cut out the sections where the posts will be mounted and have them pour thicker pads and tie them into the existing floor with rebar. It shouldn't cost too much. Only downside is you have to wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure prior to drilling it.

My concrete probably has a PSI of 50. The garage is likely 80 years old and the floor was a “what da we got laying around to throw in this concrete” kind of job.

I thought of doing cylindrical footings, that’s what I did for my tubing bender. Just went with the quick jack considering all the other options I have at my disposal. Plus the price was right.

 

[Aero_Tech]

I'm in Sarnia.

I set the Stinger on the lift with the arms at equal length and lift on the factory lift points. I'm not sure where that lines up relative to the lift post and the door. I use a mark on the floor that lines up with the center of the front wheel.

I didn't use the supplied wedge anchors, I went the epoxy anchor route. I heard of too many people having issues with the supplied anchors.

Here are a couple of pictures of the install prep. 12" deep, pinned and keyed to the original pad.

Bit of a drive from me lol.

Looks like you did everything perfectly. A lot of people overlook digging under the existing pad and keying the new pour to the old slab. At 12" you could put a 20,000lb bus lift in there lol.

My concrete probably has a PSI of 50. The garage is likely 80 years old and the floor was a “what da we got laying around to throw in this concrete” kind of job.

I thought of doing cylindrical footings, that’s what I did for my tubing bender. Just went with the quick jack considering all the other options I have at my disposal. Plus the price was right.

Ah, understood. The compressive strength is very important. As long as what you have works for you is all that matters

 

[Hawk853]

Bit of a drive from me lol.

Looks like you did everything perfectly. A lot of people overlook digging under the existing pad and keying the new pour to the old slab. At 12" you could put a 20,000lb bus lift in there lol.


Ah, understood. The compressive strength is very important. As long as what you have works for you is all that matters

One day

 

[Aero_Tech]

All done. No more sore back and knees...woohoo.