‘22 GT2 acceleration judders

Have you disconnected your battery for about an half hour, even overnight? Try to reset all the "learned" info on the ECU and give it go, easy to do.
 
Took car in today to dealership. No codes on scan but they did reset the adaptive values in engine and transmission and stated that “vehicle is running and driving as designed”. I haven’t had a chance to t fully test out the judder but thankfully the jerky braking I was experiencing (separate post) has improved remarkably. Still certainly aggressive due shifts with braking but it seems much more uniform. So one less area of frustration resolved for now. Will update after I drive it more to see if the judder has also fully resolved.
 
Have you disconnected your battery for about an half hour, even overnight? Try to reset all the "learned" info on the ECU and give it go, easy to do.
I was considering this if the dealer didn’t find anything on their end but sounds like they reset things on their side. Hoping it does the truck. Thanks for the suggestion.

If I did decide to do that in the future, is there a “proper” way to do this? Just disconnect one of the terminals?
 
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I was considering this if the dealer didn’t find anything on their end but sounds like they reset things on their side. Hoping it does the truck. Thanks for the suggestion.

If I did decide to do that in the future, is there a “proper” way to do this? Just disconnect one of the terminals?
Just disconnect the negative terminal at the body in the trunk, one blot.
 
Have you disconnected your battery for about an half hour, even overnight? Try to reset all the "learned" info on the ECU and give it go, easy to do.
So I disconnected the clip in the trunk and car was able to shut the trunk and then lost all power. I left it disconnected for 2 hours and then reconnected it. How do I know if that was sufficient to reset the adaptive values? Other personalized settings were still present so I’m thinking that wouldn’t be sufficient?
 

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Quick update question: still experiencing the same issues and am curious if this could either be a wastegate or blow-off valve issue as it’s only noticeable when the car hits and tries to maintain maximum boost?
 
Quick update question: still experiencing the same issues and am curious if this could either be a wastegate or blow-off valve issue as it’s only noticeable when the car hits and tries to maintain maximum boost?
I was wondering the same thing, my stutter under hard throttle returned today
 
I was wondering the same thing, my stutter under hard throttle returned today
Possible, I replaced my waste gate control valve with a better pierburg switch. I previously had this issue on a Volvo so I preemptively replaced it.
 
Possible, I replaced my waste gate control valve with a better pierburg switch. I previously had this issue on a Volvo so I preemptively replaced it.
Did it basically feel like misfire under heavy throttle?
 
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From interior to exterior to high performance - everything you need for your Stinger awaits you...
I'm assuming possible bad coil pack, or maybe the hpfp is weak. Only 13k miles on the thing tho. I wonder if a guy would see a weak fuel pump in jb4 logs.. mine always stays around 10
 
Any updates on this? I'm having the same issues on my 22 GT2 at approximately 14k miles.
 
Kia Stinger
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