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Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!

2018 Kia Stinger GT2 for sale 78K miles $35 - not for sale in California due too CARB regulations
Jonny Tig intakes
Jonny Tig intercooler
Ark exhaust
Presser Tech ECU tune
will add pics this weekend

Hey, looking to switch over to summer tires any decent ones for under $200. I previously had DWS06+ installed in October but now the tread is on its way out the door for the rear tires after only about 12k miles I'll be lucky to squeeze out another 2k. I live in the Midwest and do a lot of highway driving

Hi folks.
2023 GT here (Canada). When I took my Stinger for a drive last week, it indicated low tire pressure on the front right tire.
The car sits in my garage for most of the winter, so I wasn't surprised.
I brought the tires back up to 33-34 PSI all around, but the message and the icon will not go away.
The manual says the system will reset on it's own. After driving it again today, with several stops to run a few errands, the message is still there.
Any ideas on how to clear it is appreciated.
I have attached a pic (I hope I did anyway).

Besides owning the Stinger, I have yet to see another one in my area besides the ones at dealerships. I am in the Kent/Fedway area of WA. Anyone seeing them around in their respective areas?

I am always on the lookout trying to find them...mainly because they are so nice to look at...lol

new member from cali so happy to be a part of the family.

2020 KIA Stinger GT2

Here are my specifications:

- K&N CAI

- MBRP catback exhaust

- DC Sports Mid pipes

- Single ADD W1 Catch Can

- JB4 with EWG wires and fuel wires (JB4 was recently installed on January 31, 2026)

- Brand new ignition coils

- Brand new HKS plugs gapped to 0.022

- I only use 94 octane or 93, no lower

- Running MAP 1



I spoke to Terry at Burger Motorsport, and honestly, he wasn’t very helpful. He was extremely vague and told me to change FF from 50 to 30. All his emails were also vague and didn’t provide much help in diagnosing my issue. So, I’m reaching out to you all to see if you can assist me.


I want to avoid going to a dealership and fix it myself if possible.


For a while now, I’ve been experiencing issues where, around 2,000 rpm or a little less, the car would randomly enter some type of limp mode or protection mode. It barely allowed me to accelerate, even if I floored the gas pedal. Additionally, it would display a CEL. When I scan the car right when it comes on, no errors are shown. Even after turning the car off and on in accessory mode, as recommended, there are still no errors. However, when I turn the car all the way over, the engine light goes off, and everything returns to normal until it happens again.



I read that changing the ignition coils and spark plugs should fix the issue, but it didn’t. I changed both together and gapped the plugs (0.022).



Now, I’m undergoing some testing, and Terry told me to adjust the FF/Wastegate from 50 to 30. That seemed to help quite a bit because it was happing more frequent if I remember correctly! However, I can still get it to happen if I do a spirited drive, then slow down to come to a stop. Then, I accelerate normally, but if I take my foot off the gas pedal to slow and and let the RPMs drop to around 2,000 rpm or a little lower, and then accelerate normally to get the car to move forward more, the car will cut a lot of power. This results in a CEL, forcing me to pull over, turn the car off, and then turn it back on again.

I’ve tried recreating it by getting to those low rpms without accelerating hard beforehand, but I couldn’t reproduce the problem.



Today, I tested again, but this time I set JB4 to map 0. I drove for an hour, spirited here and there when I could and testing it often as I lowered the rpms to around 1,500-2,000, trying to recreate the issue. However, it didn’t happen once. Everything felt fine and as it should.



I need your input on this. Is there a setting in JB4 that I can adjust to help more?



The settings in JB4 were actually set as recommended on the website where I purchased the EWG wires. Here are the settings I have set to:

- Duty Bias: All to 50

- FF/Wastegate: 30 (was set to 50)

- PID gain: 20

- Auto shift reduction: 60



I was able to log it one time when I sent it to Terry. Not sure if it helps or not. But it did happen when I was logging. He wasn’t clear from this log what the issue is…

This is the happiest I've been with my car in a long time!

I found the issue with my sunroof. The rail that the glass rides on has a protrusion coming down. I think it's a foot for the sunroof to rest on. It's circled in the below pic.



Now, the sunroof housing has a cutout where that foot meets when the glass is closed. It can be seen circled in the below pic.



When the roof is closed those two peices are bumping against each other causing this noise.


In the next video I'm pushing down on the glass to replicate the clattering sound.


In this video I just shot the noise is gone. I'm pushing down hard enough to squeeze water out of the rag I was using to clean up the grease job I'd just done to the sunroof.


Something has to be placed between the two circled areas so they don't clickity clack against each other.

It may not be the same for everyone, but that's my fix. Unfortunately there's so much grease applied to my rail I couldn't get the felt to stay put permanently. This weekend I'll clean it up and find something more appropriate to apply. Now I don't have to deal with Kia ripping the car apart!

To reiterate, this probably won't fix everyone's sunroof Rattle as I believe there is more than one cause. But hopefully it'll help those who have the same problem as me.

Hi everyone,

Was curious to see if anyone has successfully upgraded their infotainment screen and associated hardware from the 2019-2021 8" to the 2022+ version's 10.25"?

I would guess that, if it's possible, it would require at least the following:

• New screen and mounting hardware
• New screen base plate (assuming it would fit in the previous version's layout)
• Possibly new radio / head unit, assuming that the video output is not interchangeable
• Any required changes in wiring harnesses between the two versions

Anyone looked at the part numbers needed, or taken the dash apart on their 2022 Stinger and take photos?





Thanks