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So, I just want to get a good ECU and TCU tune and was thinking of going BMS using Ek1 mini or something.

However, I keep seeing people talking about the need for a JB4 to manage boost?

My thought was that the tune was set at a specific PSI and such, and I could just get the Ek1 mini and ECU and TCU tunes and call it a day?

Is it required to have the JB to even run the tune? I'm used to the Cobb AP where you flash it and can disconnect and its good to go.

I don't care to mess around with boost and CPI/WMI or anything.

With the Stinger's release right around the corner, Post pics and give updates of what you did to your Stinger. From a simple car wash to installing aftermarket items. Andddddd go!

There's lots of mods and upgrades to be seen at KDM Warehouse!

I have a Kia Stinger and recently took it to an official dealership because the particulate filter was clogged and needed regeneration.

The dealership performed a forced regeneration using their diagnostic system. During this process, the exhaust system overheated significantly. My car has an aftermarket sports exhaust installed.

After the procedure, multiple issues appeared:

• The exhaust system was overheated and damaged
• The center console area inside the car (around the transmission tunnel, gear selector, and cup holders) was damaged by heat
• The gearbox had to be removed afterwards
• There are signs that heat may have reached even the seat area

The damage is not limited to the exhaust but extends into the interior of the car, which seems very unusual to me.

The dealership is now refusing to cover the damages, claiming that:

1. The car was imported
2. It has a non-original (aftermarket) exhaust

I have also installed a pedalbox (throttle controller), but as far as I understand, that should not affect regeneration.

My questions:

• Is it technically possible that a forced GPF regeneration could cause this level of heat damage (including inside the cabin)?
• Could an aftermarket exhaust realistically cause this kind of damage during regeneration?
• Has anyone experienced similar cases where a forced regeneration led to excessive heat or damage?
• Does this sound like improper procedure or negligence from the workshop?

Any insights or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Dealership having trouble?

So turning to experts.

What part number for Rear Brembo brake pads for 2108 GT-2 AWD and also rotors/disk and is it recommended to replace rotors at 35K if not scored? And if you have the info handy, the front pads and rotors too.

Many, many thanks

First time posting long time learning from this thread.
I’m gonna purchase a CPI kit from BMS along with their intercooler. I had a few questions before doing so. I will obviously have the correct BEF from BMS to run higher ethanol from the cpi but my question comes down to whether I can run full e85 or not. Will the 1500cc nozzle help with being able to push a higher ethanol content through or should I just stick with the 950? I’ve seen a few people say they’ve been able to run full e85 (I’m sure this also comes from adjusting settings for watermeth/cpi in the jb4 app) . I’m not looking to get better gains from running full e85 I’ve seen many say you dont get that much more performance past e60 on this bef. Im doing it just to be able to fill up and not mix/ waste time at pump
I’m still new to tuning and upgrading so any advice would be greatly appreciated

I have a 2019 Kia Stinger Gts Awd. Bought it new in 2019. The dealer stated Kia made 400 of the AWD models. I am curious regarding how many of the original 400 units remain on the road. I have not seen a gts in a few years.

Hi, I'm new to this forum and I'd like to ask for your advice. I'm from Europe so please take my English with a grain of salt .

I've owned a 2018 Stinger 3.3T for 2 years. Lately I've been having a battery drain problem.

The whole story started with the original battery in the car and one day I couldn't start it. So I figured that since the battery was original, it must be the problem and I bought the same new AGM battery which I installed.

I drove the car for about 2 days when the problem happened again. The battery was so drained that I couldn't even open the car with the key fob.

We then took the car to the service center where they found that the car had a low idle current draw and at such a high rate that it could drain the battery from night to morning.

The mechanics can't help because they've checked the electronics but can't figure out where the problem is.

I've probably read all the forums where this or a similar problem has been solved. But no one has written a solution to the problem when they solved it

Please give me any advice that will help get the stinger back on the road :-D

Thanks, group

Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!