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Anyone else have oil leaking from this location?

Went to do an oil change today, and notice oil dripping on the steering rack motor. seems to be either coming out of the top of the oil filter housing near the crank and or from where the oil cooler attaches to the filter housing.

Anyone else have this issue?

Car is a 2022 GT2 with 72,000 miles

pic is below

I have the stinger gt and I’m thinking about going for intakes first then a dyno tune and an exhaust, will this net me the most power reliably?

Hello I hope this gets a little traction, I just bought my 19 Kia stinger gt, I think want to get it around 400-450 who, I see alot of people talking about the jb4 piggy back tune but I have a really hard time trusting it. Any insight? Theres a reputable dyno shop near me I can get a dyno tune at. Should I go down that route?

My GT2 has been in storage for 5 months so I wanted to circulate the oil before starting the car. I pulled the 15A "sensor 1" fuse in the engine bay. It's described as the fuel pump fuse. Pushed the start button and the car started right up and ran great. No warning lights on the dash or anything. So, so much for circulating oil before starting.

Does anyone have a way of turning over the engine to circulate oil without starting it that actually works?

Hi folks, I'm excited to take her on the final roadtrip in my bucket list (NC500).

I'm planning on going in March and aiming to be back home before the kids are released from school.

I'm hoping to alternate between hotel and car camping for a balanced budget and experience. My only worry is getting a flat as I have patch kits but hoping I get signal for the AA incase I breakdown.

I really want to do the apple cross pass but given the size of the vehicle, I might skip.

Given the 300mile range I think I'm safe without a petrol can as I will fill up as much as I can between towns

Starting in Inverness, 7 days counter clockwise.

Let me know if you have any tips for this trip.

Brand new / never installed Mishi Oil Catch can I did pimp the hoses but easy to undo if you don't like it - Looking for $300 OBO GTA Pick up or meet

Going from JB4 only to these 2 BEF tunes is a really day and night difference. Initially all I wanted to do was the TCU tune but learning about KJT's ECU tune really made me more curious with all the benefits it comes with. This combo is exactly what I was looking for. Burbles, better e85 adaption, better overboost management, more power, more torque, no more jerky downshifts from 3 to 2 that I always noticed. Much smoother shifts in comfort. Also very quick and crisp upshifts and downshifts in sport/custom mode. Here are 2 quick initial impression videos I made today. The burbles are the perfect amount, not too much not too little. The BOV are also much louder, power comes on much smoother and boost builds up FAR faster. No more of that dead throttle feel as well. The exhaust also sounds different, slightly louder and deeper but more refined! You can hear the turbo whistle way more than ever! It sounds so much nicer now even with the stock primaries.

I will say the EK1 device was being an absolute PAIN in the ass. It kept giving issues with the files not being read from the sd card. We ended up having to format the sd card and recreate the folders using initial capitalized letters. Then once we ejected the sd card and turned on the EK1 we saw the files FINALLY. The ek1 was already upgraded and registered online as well. Totally made my day going for a first drive but I was already so tired I will likely capture some more videos at another time. If anyone is on the fence on this ABSOLUTELY GO FOR IT! Hats off to the folks at BMS and KJT. They are a dream team.

My mods besides the BEF: K&N intakes, GFB 9012 BOV, Ark Secondaries, Mbrp Pro Active catback with akrapovic cf tips, eibach springs and sway bars, bms FMIC, bms chargepipes, moshimotto catch can, moshimotto rear camber arms, fuel it ethanol analyzer (so handy if you run e85).

2018 GT2 AWD, 108k mi, looks like my good luck might finally be running out.

Here's what my dash looks like after driving around the block:




As you can see, I've been accumulating lights on my dash over the last ~9 months. First, the EPB, red Brake and amber Auto Hold lights would come on intermittantly, then as of about 4 months ago they came on as soon as I start the car and stay on. This would also disable cruise control whenever the lights were on.

The traction, ABS, forward collision, and the top right warning lights came next ~2 months ago, just randomly showed up one day and come on and stay on as soon as I start the car now.
The AWD light in the top left does not come on when I start the car, but comes on soon after driving for a bit.

Mechanically, the car still feels absolutely fine, except for the fact that the cruise control is disabled and the front wheels no longer get power once the ABS light comes on. The front parking sensors still work but presumably the actual forward collision avoidance is disabled as well. No weird noises, no starting problems, no actual CEL or anything like that.





Those are all the codes I currently have. Initial Googling wasn't too helpful, but some responses told me that maybe my battery could be on it's way out. I had it load tested at a local place and they said it's a touch low but still well within acceptable, and since I'm not having any other starting/electrical problems and they didn't even try to sell me a new one I figured I'm good there. The only other things Google immediately turned up were either a general wiring issue somewhere or...





Pics from my wheel speed sensors. That seems to be the first common problem that would cause this, but I'm not really sure what's going on here. As you can see, they're reading rather different values between front and rear. First pic was taken at ~55 MPH. Immediately I thought my tires must just be uneven. So, I went home and swapped my fronts and rear wheels around (I have square 235/45R18s). Second pic is ~60 MPH after swapping my front and rear tires, same issue. First of all, if a sensor was bad, wouldn't it just be reporting nothing? Is it possible that two of the sensors are failing at the exact same time, and in exactly the same way?

Other than that, the only thing that looks obvious to me is the C138201 Hall level sensor fault. Again, Googling didn't turn up too much on this so I'm not really sure where to go with that, and would that really be causing all these problems?

I haven't tried clearing any of the codes yet. Almost all of them are reading as active though so I assume they would just come back. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this? I would prefer to order parts and do the work myself if possible if someone can point me at what to replace. Thank you!!

I've been sort of compiling and validating some combinations. Criteria: avoiding poke, trying to find ways to improve on the stock look without compromising performance too much, etc. Seems like an okay start, might be cool if we could add to it (original in Excel has formulas and all that bit.) Thoughts?



Corrected/updated:


Link to editable Google Sheet. Add your own, etc. Play nice. Wheel Tire Options

• Added columns for AWD/RWD and lowered or not.

Seriously nifty comprehensive calculator linked by @YOWStinger : Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

I have a 2022 GT-Line with wired Android Auto. I have AAWireless device to make it wireless but I am trying to get it stretch across the full 10" screen. I have split screen turned off in the settings and have the most up to date firmware installed but I can't figure out how to prevent the screen from always having a side app. The only one that will go full screen is Google Maps.