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Good morning,
I've been waiting to have this exhaust installed since mid December when I received it and yesterday it all went down at a reputable shop I decided on. I went without the resonators and am very impressed by the tone of this exhaust and the theatrics it offers for the Stinger, especially ripping on the highway.
I had the entire exhaust welded, starting with a mid pipe flange delete. The mild steel of the OEM (2023) flange was heavily rusted and this was the way to go. It was mated up nicely with the cats and welded directly. I don't have a picture of the work done on this section.
I requested to have the quad exit pipes extended to match how the OEM setup was positioned in the bezels. I am very happy with how it looks, it is hard to tell that it is modified at first glance but if you know you know and that's exactly how I like it.
This exhaust has an intense low frequency drone right around 2.5K RPM - I knew this going in and it was the primary reason for extending the exit pipes.
The passenger side exhaust actuator connector wiring had to have its retainer clip disconnected to allow connection to the actuator when mounted on the MBRP catback. The wiring was pulled tight here and is just long enough to connect - I will probably need to extend the connector wiring on this side to accommodate my 11Mode controller.
Here are some pictures:
I've been waiting to have this exhaust installed since mid December when I received it and yesterday it all went down at a reputable shop I decided on. I went without the resonators and am very impressed by the tone of this exhaust and the theatrics it offers for the Stinger, especially ripping on the highway.
I had the entire exhaust welded, starting with a mid pipe flange delete. The mild steel of the OEM (2023) flange was heavily rusted and this was the way to go. It was mated up nicely with the cats and welded directly. I don't have a picture of the work done on this section.
I requested to have the quad exit pipes extended to match how the OEM setup was positioned in the bezels. I am very happy with how it looks, it is hard to tell that it is modified at first glance but if you know you know and that's exactly how I like it.
This exhaust has an intense low frequency drone right around 2.5K RPM - I knew this going in and it was the primary reason for extending the exit pipes.
The passenger side exhaust actuator connector wiring had to have its retainer clip disconnected to allow connection to the actuator when mounted on the MBRP catback. The wiring was pulled tight here and is just long enough to connect - I will probably need to extend the connector wiring on this side to accommodate my 11Mode controller.
Here are some pictures:
3 replies
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166 views
I was under the impression that our adaptive suspension simply didn't change suspension settings enough to be really noticeable when driving normally. Many reviews I've watched and my own experience indicated this. Switching from comfort to sport, and back, I can't tell any difference at all when it comes to soaking up bumps on a normal road.
Can you? Only the GT1 and GT2 (US Specs) come with adaptive suspension.
Can you? Only the GT1 and GT2 (US Specs) come with adaptive suspension.
Can you tell your adaptive suspension is working?
111 votes total
42 replies
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13881 views
I have a 2019 Kia Stinger Gts Awd. Bought it new in 2019. The dealer stated Kia made 400 of the AWD models. I am curious regarding how many of the original 400 units remain on the road. I have not seen a gts in a few years.
1 replies
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16 views
2022 GT-Line in Florida. Every time I try to run the navigation update on my pc it says it's unavailable. My last update was January 2025
15 replies
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272 views
Ok new here and have an idea or 5 of improving the interior and exterior with some lighting. Here’s some details and finding for anyone that wants copy.
1. Ambient footwell light that matches the car stock and can be change in the cars menu. Already started on this, OEM light controller behind the dash on passenger side. Car LED system runs on 5.5v trough the Orange + wire, the remainder RGB wires do what the colours say 0.03v when non colour 0.05v when coloured.
2. Ambient light front and rear round air vents, taking a tap again from the stock led controller behind the dash so this all matches the cars colours and be controlled in the OEM menu.
3. Create my own CK71 DRL front lights. This is what I’m struggling with… the Aliexpress ones look terrible, chunky and cheap. I’ve seen people using Diode Dynamic LEDs for this but they are over $150 to buy and post to the UK. I’m struggling to find any switchback strips in the UK that don’t have sequential lighting for the turn signal or a crap looking start up sequence. My other option is a smaller than the size and cut the metal piece that’s in there from stock to fit.
4. Create my own sequential rear lights, again due to cost of getting the ones offered online posted to the uk I’m gona go for this my self see how I get on.
I plan on posting images and updates of doing all of this to keep people posted
Any help in people’s experience or finding relevant parts it’s always welcome
1. Ambient footwell light that matches the car stock and can be change in the cars menu. Already started on this, OEM light controller behind the dash on passenger side. Car LED system runs on 5.5v trough the Orange + wire, the remainder RGB wires do what the colours say 0.03v when non colour 0.05v when coloured.
2. Ambient light front and rear round air vents, taking a tap again from the stock led controller behind the dash so this all matches the cars colours and be controlled in the OEM menu.
3. Create my own CK71 DRL front lights. This is what I’m struggling with… the Aliexpress ones look terrible, chunky and cheap. I’ve seen people using Diode Dynamic LEDs for this but they are over $150 to buy and post to the UK. I’m struggling to find any switchback strips in the UK that don’t have sequential lighting for the turn signal or a crap looking start up sequence. My other option is a smaller than the size and cut the metal piece that’s in there from stock to fit.
4. Create my own sequential rear lights, again due to cost of getting the ones offered online posted to the uk I’m gona go for this my self see how I get on.
I plan on posting images and updates of doing all of this to keep people posted
Any help in people’s experience or finding relevant parts it’s always welcome
24 replies
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773 views
I got home tonight and I noticed my ambient lightning was not working ( bar on the glove box and bottom of doors) I went into the light setting in the cluster and ambient lightning was missing from the menu, brightness level and all that. I went through all the menu for 30 min and could not figure out how to display my blue ambient lightning.
33 replies
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37086 views
I will be selling my 2022 Kia stinger GT. All of the below parts have less than 6k miles on them. I did not drive my car much, only to work. Buyer pays shipping, price does not include shipping, I am located in Illinois in the Chicago area if want to pick up in person.
BMS Intercooler $475
BMS vanity covers $60
BMS JB4 with fuel wires pnp plugs $450
BMS transmission cooler $325
BMS CPI complete kit with FSB $600 ($900 new)
Takeda intakes $325
Mishimoto oil catch can $150
GFB Blow off valves- dual whistle $350
EK1 lite $ 325
Oem exhaust 2022 - $300
Oem down pipes -$300
Trunk all weather stinger mat - $40
Velossa tech snorkles- $175
BMS Intercooler $475
BMS vanity covers $60
BMS JB4 with fuel wires pnp plugs $450
BMS transmission cooler $325
BMS CPI complete kit with FSB $600 ($900 new)
Takeda intakes $325
Mishimoto oil catch can $150
GFB Blow off valves- dual whistle $350
EK1 lite $ 325
Oem exhaust 2022 - $300
Oem down pipes -$300
Trunk all weather stinger mat - $40
Velossa tech snorkles- $175
17 replies
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587 views
Hello all. Been a while since I have been back here. Still loving my Stinger but have a recent issue at 74k miles. Had a nice "chat" with ChatGPT after talking to my service rep. They are still diagnosing the issue but figured I would document the issue here in case it helps anyone else in the future. I was able to upload the Kia Warranty and my Extended Warranty for additional context. I asked ChatGPT to summarize our conversation just so I had all the information organized.
Car:
2019 Kia Stinger GT (3.3TT)
~74,000 miles
Initial Symptoms:
Escalation:
Dealer Actions So Far:
What This Likely Points To (based on research + feedback):
Warranty Situation:
Important Notes for Others:
Current Status:
Waiting on final diagnosis from dealer + Kia corporate
Will update once I know whether it’s a repair or full engine replacement
Hope this helps someone else—happy to answer questions or update once resolved. Some of this info is probably obvious to alot of you on here but I am not super educated on cars but love my Stinger!
Car:
2019 Kia Stinger GT (3.3TT)
~74,000 miles
Initial Symptoms:
- Check engine light with misfires on cylinders 1, 3, and 5 (same bank)
- Car would go into limp mode
- Issue would temporarily reset after restarting the engine
Escalation:
- Problem became more frequent
- Eventually the check engine light stayed on
- Car stalled at a stoplight (restarted after putting it in park)
- Dropped the car off at the dealer immediately
Dealer Actions So Far:
- Replaced spark plugs and ignition coils → did NOT fix issue
- Now diagnosing further with Kia tech support
- Mentioned finding oil pooling
- Indicated that engine replacement is a possibility (still under investigation)
What This Likely Points To (based on research + feedback):
- Not ignition-related (already ruled out)
- Likely a bank-specific issue (since 1,3,5 all affected)
- Most probable causes:
- Fuel system issue (injectors / fuel delivery)
- Turbo oil seal / oil ingestion
- PCV system issue
- VVT / cam timing issue
- Internal engine issue (rings/valves)
Warranty Situation:
- Basic warranty expired (5yr / 60k)
- Powertrain warranty (10yr / 100k) still active
- Issue clearly falls under:
- Engine internals
- Fuel system
- Turbo system
Important Notes for Others:
- If you get multiple misfires on one bank, don’t assume it’s just plugs/coils
- Limp mode + stalling = serious underlying issue
- Bring the car in ASAP and avoid driving it
- Let the dealer diagnose BEFORE paying for repairs yourself
- Even without perfect maintenance records, warranty claims can still be valid unless neglect directly caused the issue
Current Status:
Waiting on final diagnosis from dealer + Kia corporate
Will update once I know whether it’s a repair or full engine replacement
Hope this helps someone else—happy to answer questions or update once resolved. Some of this info is probably obvious to alot of you on here but I am not super educated on cars but love my Stinger!
2 replies
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56 views
Hi all,
Just into my second week of Stinger ownership and unfortunately I’m unconvinced this is going to be the car for me, but I’ve always tried to participate in owners clubs and communities so here I am. Also thanks to the community for all the content already on here, it was very useful when researching the car.
Bit of background: I’m U.K. based and have a red over black Stinger GTS (which I think is a GT2 RWD everywhere else in the world). I’m coming to this car from the love of my automotive life, a 2004 350z that I owned for 15 years, maintained mostly myself and did some significant but tasteful mods to. The stinger is supposed to be my grown up car now that I’ve got a new 120 mile round trip I’ll have to do once or twice a week.
I was sure before buying that this was the car for me but I have to say it’s not been a great ownership experience so far, although a lot of that is to do with the dealer and the particular car, not the Stinger in general. Buying an in-warranty car from a main dealer I figured I’d be pretty safe, but every time I drive the car I find something else not right with it. Some of this I’m just annoyed at myself for not noticing when I viewed the car, but some of this is stuff that the dealer had hidden or was done to the car between me seeing it and it being delivered, which is the kind of thing you’d expect from shady used car types, not a main dealer franchise.
I’m pretty much 50/50 right now on whether I keep the car and try to make the most of it or cut my losses and take the hit on trading it in for something else. Hoping the community can inject me with a bit of enthusiasm, as it’s running really low right now.
Many thanks,
MS
Just into my second week of Stinger ownership and unfortunately I’m unconvinced this is going to be the car for me, but I’ve always tried to participate in owners clubs and communities so here I am. Also thanks to the community for all the content already on here, it was very useful when researching the car.
Bit of background: I’m U.K. based and have a red over black Stinger GTS (which I think is a GT2 RWD everywhere else in the world). I’m coming to this car from the love of my automotive life, a 2004 350z that I owned for 15 years, maintained mostly myself and did some significant but tasteful mods to. The stinger is supposed to be my grown up car now that I’ve got a new 120 mile round trip I’ll have to do once or twice a week.
I was sure before buying that this was the car for me but I have to say it’s not been a great ownership experience so far, although a lot of that is to do with the dealer and the particular car, not the Stinger in general. Buying an in-warranty car from a main dealer I figured I’d be pretty safe, but every time I drive the car I find something else not right with it. Some of this I’m just annoyed at myself for not noticing when I viewed the car, but some of this is stuff that the dealer had hidden or was done to the car between me seeing it and it being delivered, which is the kind of thing you’d expect from shady used car types, not a main dealer franchise.
I’m pretty much 50/50 right now on whether I keep the car and try to make the most of it or cut my losses and take the hit on trading it in for something else. Hoping the community can inject me with a bit of enthusiasm, as it’s running really low right now.
Many thanks,
MS
6 replies
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131 views
About 2 months ago I found my Stinger completely dead on the way from the ambulance in the afternoon. It is 2019, original battery, 70000KM, ISG off. I only have Racechip GTS and Mykeypremium remote start installed. The remote start has the function of automatically locking the car after approx. 5 meters away. The strange thing about this battery drain is that it had to drain in the time it takes me to slam the door and take the few steps before the car locks and - the mirrors fold down. I found the car completely discharged, unlocked and the mirrors were not folded down /as they are in a locked car/. I started the car via the cables, left it on the charger overnight at home and it has been working without problems since then. I disabled the auto-lock feature
13 replies
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1564 views
Hello I hope this gets a little traction, I just bought my 19 Kia stinger gt, I think want to get it around 400-450 who, I see alot of people talking about the jb4 piggy back tune but I have a really hard time trusting it. Any insight? Theres a reputable dyno shop near me I can get a dyno tune at. Should I go down that route?
2 replies
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81 views