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Good day,

I'm considering picking up an 11mode exhaust controller for my MBRP active exhaust.

They make this disclaimer on the product page:

Please note: this is for the 3 pin connector model. If you have an actuator with the 4 pin connector, please message us.

Can someone let me know what is most likely for a '23 GT limited? I will check it out for myself when I can but seeking a quick answer for now.

Thank you.

Funny or clever plates. Anybody seen any?

I saw 2 yesterday which made me chuckle.

On the back of an AMG CLA45 - “AMGOMG”

And on the back of a Toyota Hilux - “HIRUX’

I guess the Hilux could potentially offend some people but I thought it was funny. Bit surprised they let it through TBH.

Anybody else seen any funny plates?

Thanks for the add! I'm looking to buy a Stinger and here to learn about them.

Hello everybody,

I have a 2019 GT-line 2.0 RWD Stinger, 71k miles (115k km) that has all of the GT2 (3.3l) options except for the brembo brakes (yes, I have the adaptive suspension as well, it's a German version of the car with all of the options).

I see very high fuel usage during my daily commute and I did some tests at night on the highway, both in summer and winter. Premium tires for summer and winter, at the recommended pressure, no luggage / people in the car, warm engine and transmission:
- 110 km/h = 8.0l/100km // 69MPH = 29MPG (8th gear at 1850-1900 rpm)
- 130 km/h = 10l/100km // 82MPH = 24MPG (8th gear at 2150-2200 rpm)

This happens on ECO, Comfort and Sport mode.

This is tested exclusively on a straight highway road and it doesn't take into consideration the accelerations to get up to speed when entering the highway, it's strictly constant accelerator pedal and speed.

From what I could find on the forums, even the 3.3 Stinger gets better fuel economy when cruising like this. So something must be wrong with mine. I've drove another Stinger exactly like mine and that one had better fuel economy, on the same road I did the tests (29-30MPG at 85MPH // 8l/100km at 135km/h). Both cars have the same ECU and TCU software version, the one after the GPF issue was fixed in the software, so it cannot be that popular GPF logic bug that was happening on early softwares.

- replaced the spark plugs, the old ones had around 30k km (20k miles) and were black (attached photo)
- I did a smoke test for the intake, no leaks detected.
- The fuel rail pressure stays around 20000 kpa (2900 psi).
- The O2 sensor reports fluctuations between 0.95 and 0.98, where 1 is stoichiometric A/F ratio and 2 is 100% oxygen and 0% fuel, so it reports just a bit rich mixture, too small I think to count. Also the other Stinger that I drove had the same values and not the consumption issue.
- LTFT stayed at 4.5% and STFT stayed around -1% to 1%
- intake manifold absolute pressure was at 97-100kpa
- timing advance between 15 and 18 degrees
- cat 1 temp 780°C and cat 2 temp 680°C
- engine coolant stays around 100°C, engine oil is around the same temperature

It drives me crazy cause I use it as a daily and burns through my pocked with that fuel usage (20-25% more than it should). In mixed driving I get around 15l/100km (15MPG) without any hard accelerations.

I am planning to do the following hoping I might find the issue:
- replace the fuel pressure sensor (a few times I got the P0191 error and was showing fuel rail pressure at 500-600 kpa, so 10-40 times lower than normal, goes away after turning the engine off and on again)
- try to see if the dealership can override the current ECU fuel map with the stock one, to make sure the previous owner did not try to tune it or anything
- replace the upstream O2 sensor
- take down the GPF and have it checked physically at a specialized service to make sure it is not clogged
- replace the MAP sensor
- replace the HPFP

If anyone can help me in this matter would be great!

I recently went on vacation for nearly a month ...

Left Jan 5th, and Jan 30th is my first day back at my car...

I have a BM6 logging battery voltage measurements every 2 minutes....
Voltage can be seen fluctuating with extremely cold temperatures we had.



Jan 22 was -16°C measured at the battery.

And to my very pleasant surprise, she fired up with relative ease today, after 25 days of being parked. Cranking voltage only dipped to 9.01v

I honestly was prepared and expecting to come home to a dead battery.



I even recorded this video (for the sound), expecting the battery to be not powerful enough to start the car.



This was a very long post to simply say, my car started today, and I consider myself lucky. My original battery is 7 years old now, and I do nothing special to maintain it, other than disable ISG automatically every drive cycle

I just got a 2018 gt2 with the 3.3tt and it’s awd. I got the car with a blown motor and I’m now in the market for a motor lol. When I was looking I found that the awd motors are a lot harder to find and cost about 2k more. From my understanding the long blocks are the same. So in that case can I just buy a motor that came out of a rwd and put it in my awd without modifications? Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, I joined this forum to get help, a few days ago I drove my car around town and then I had to make a stop somewhere but left the car parked and engine running my wife was inside and it was a little bit cold outside, I had it parked for about 30 minutes, when I came back I’ve noticed my temperature gauge all the way to red HOT and my warning codes came on on the dash, long story short, I found out the fan is not turning when it should, tested fuses, relay and continuity everything is working normal, I have 4 wires coming the the fan 2 hot wires 1 ground and 1 coming from temperature sensor, I tried hot wire the fan but couldn’t make it turn so I thought maybe the fan was bad, I ordered a used one but supposedly working condition but I can’t make it turn either by hot wiring it also, ohh I also replaced the temp sensor for a new one didn’t make a difference, so I’m here still looking for an answer what could be wrong with it , maybe someone have had the same problem… please Help!!!!

Good afternoon everyone. I have a 2022 Gt2 with 18k miles that got fully bottomed out because of the lane missing due to unmarked road construction which caused the front differential and some other parts to need to be replaced. After having all the repairs done and an alignment done, whenever I accelerate more than 25% of the gas pedal the car seems to want to pull from the front left section or push from the right rear section. The way to describe it is as if the power distribution is off and certain wheels have more power than others. I live in Alaska and this worsens whenever it touches any bit of snow or ice. The second it does touch something that disturbs its traction, it acts as if it would do a 90 degree turn to the left if I didn't stop accelerating. It also still pulls pretty good to the left and sometimes to the right. I had the shop that did the work check the alignment and it supposedly checked out and had rear suspension parts replaced because they said that could be the issue but it is still happening. Any feedback is greatly appreciated and thank you for taking the time to read this.

Hi all, I’m wondering if it’s possible to replace the alternator on a stinger/g70 3.3 at home in my garage with my basic tools. Yesterday I had an issue of a dead battery and after recharging and having autozone test my battery we determined that my battery is healthy. And I used the alternator test function on my battery charger and it said my alternator was bad. I can’t find anything on the internet depicting the process of changing an alternator on these cars. I read on a forum/Reddit post someone saying the engine had to come out for the alternator… and a friend of mine who works at a auto shop said he would have to remove the front subframe and quoted me $1100 for the job.

I’m just wondering if anyone has experience and insight with this. I’m really hoping it’s possible for me to just remove the passenger side intake and some other parts in the area and replace it myself.