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I will be selling my 2022 Kia stinger GT. All of the below parts have less than 6k miles on them. I did not drive my car much, only to work. Buyer pays shipping, price does not include shipping, I am located in Illinois in the Chicago area if want to pick up in person.

BMS Intercooler $475
BMS vanity covers $60
BMS JB4 with fuel wires pnp plugs $450
BMS transmission cooler $325
BMS CPI complete kit with FSB $600 ($900 new)
Takeda intakes $325
Mishimoto oil catch can $150
GFB Blow off valves- dual whistle $350
EK1 lite $ 325
Oem exhaust 2022 - $300
Oem down pipes -$300
Trunk all weather stinger mat - $40
Velossa tech snorkles- $175

With the Stinger's release right around the corner, Post pics and give updates of what you did to your Stinger. From a simple car wash to installing aftermarket items. Andddddd go!

There's lots of mods and upgrades to be seen at KDM Warehouse!

It's somewhat small at the moment, the number of aftermarket exhausts for the 3.3. It'd be nice to have a list, maintained. This is probably more of a US thing or so, because in Switzerland we're regulated to death with the legal options.

Atm I only know of:

- SEMA Borla ... with no idea if this going official?
- SEMA AMG Exhaust. A gag?
- Bastuck. Seems not to have that much roar.
- "Updated thing from Kia". Apparently there's a "sport" exhaust or so mething now. What I saw doesn't sound like much and is hideously expensive.
- JUN B.L. Korean thing I think, where I have no idea if this makes it to Europe myself.

My favorite is the Borla .. that thing roars. But it would have to have a "silent" option or simply behave in normal driving if you don't hit the pedal much. Nothing gets on my nerves more, than a sport/performance exhaust, that constantly drones and annoys on long voyages.

Thanks for the add! I'm looking to buy a Stinger and here to learn about them.

I recently went on vacation for nearly a month ...

Left Jan 5th, and Jan 30th is my first day back at my car...

I have a BM6 logging battery voltage measurements every 2 minutes....
Voltage can be seen fluctuating with extremely cold temperatures we had.



Jan 22 was -16°C measured at the battery.

And to my very pleasant surprise, she fired up with relative ease today, after 25 days of being parked. Cranking voltage only dipped to 9.01v

I honestly was prepared and expecting to come home to a dead battery.



I even recorded this video (for the sound), expecting the battery to be not powerful enough to start the car.



This was a very long post to simply say, my car started today, and I consider myself lucky. My original battery is 7 years old now, and I do nothing special to maintain it, other than disable ISG automatically every drive cycle

Hi folks.
2023 GT here (Canada). When I took my Stinger for a drive last week, it indicated low tire pressure on the front right tire.
The car sits in my garage for most of the winter, so I wasn't surprised.
I brought the tires back up to 33-34 PSI all around, but the message and the icon will not go away.
The manual says the system will reset on it's own. After driving it again today, with several stops to run a few errands, the message is still there.
Any ideas on how to clear it is appreciated.
I have attached a pic (I hope I did anyway).

I will try my best to explain this with detail.

I don’t know if this is just my car or a problem within a lot of stingers. When I am driving in automatic, on any mode, my car downshifts harshly at times. When I’m braking, as well as when I’m letting it coast to a stop. 7 times out of 10, the downshifts jerk my body forward a little bit, especially when then car is going from 3rd to 2nd gear, 2nd to 1st gear. At first I was thinking it could probably be torque, but it feels so different than downshifting with the paddle shifters.

When I’m controlling the gears and using the paddle shifters, I feel like body jerk can be normal depending on what the rpm’s jump to after a downshift, and I have no issues.

I have no indication on what this could possibly be. Or maybe I just don’t understand my own car. If anyone has heard of this, please point me in the right direction.

I dug up a bunch of old photos and files related to this project from August 2024 that I want to share with whomever is interested in this type of thing. This project is not over and I am still developing this, now with a much better design and combination with my own 'brake snip' modification, so stay tuned for that I guess.

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I've owned a wind booster GT (GT607L) for a long time and am quite fond of this little gadget. I had it on my '18 GT limited and now on my '23 GT limited. This post is about the customization I have done to my unit and the ongoing development of a higher quality, permanent design to share with the community.

It began when I had the module installed on my '18 Stinger and experienced a few dangerous situations where the device malfunctioned and randomly caused unintended acceleration rise while driving and even limp mode due either a module fault, faulty electrical connection or a significant mismatch between throttle position and feedback signal. I don't know.

I thought my wind booster may have been permanently faulty and removed it from the car. I decided to hang onto it and develop a full bypass back-to-stock relay module to activate as soon as I detect a malfunction. The details of this relay module are what I will share here.



The GT607L.

Back-to-stock bypass means full electrical isolation of the wind booster module from the electrical connector of the accelerator pedal and the electrical connector of the car-side wiring. The standard installation requires the wind booster module be inserted "in-line" between the car-side connector and the accelerator pedal. There are (2) 6-pin connectors passing (6) wires in and (6) wires out (12 total) of the wind booster module. To completely isolate the module from the car-side and accelerator side, an additional 12 wires are needed for a total of 24. This is accomplished by implementing (3) 4PDT (four-pole-double-throw) control relays to handle the switching of 24 connections.

If you happen to have a strong understanding of electromechanical relays, you can skip this next part where I explain the function and operation.

4PDT means four isolated connections (four-pole) "IN" with two (double throw) "OUT" paths each, where each (double throw) has both a normally open (N.O.) and normally closed (N.C.) contact (pathway) to make external connections with. This configuration is known as a "form C" contact arrangement.
Three (3) 4PDT represents (12) "IN" paths and (24) "OUT" paths across all relays. "Normal" is the term used to describe the state of a relays electrical contacts (pathways) when no electrical activation signal is applied to the electromagnetic coil - it can also be referred to being at, "rest". The "not-normal" state describes the other condition, where an electrical activation signal is applied to the electromagnetic coil and the electrical contacts (pathways) physically change internally (changeover) due to armature (linkage) movement. It's important to mention that a form C contact arrangement is non-polarized, meaning the "IN" and "OUT" sides that I described are not functionally significant but rather, intuitively helpful.

To summarize the double throw relay function:
- A N.C. (normally closed) pathway will have electrical continuity from "IN" to "OUT" on the "OUT" (throw) indicated as N.C.
- A N.O. (normally open) pathway will not have electrical continuity from "IN" to "OUT" on the "OUT" (throw) indicated as N.O.
- These electrical states are always inverse of each other

Across three (3) 4PDT relays there are (12) N.C. contacts available. I used these contacts to bypass the wind booster module. In this way the male electrical connector from the car can be connected directly to the female electrical connector on the accelerator pedal. Conversely, (12) N.O. contacts are available and used to connect the same male and female 6-pin electrical connectors (car-side and accelerator pedal) instead to the 6 input and output wires, respectively, of the wind booster module.

Interposing wiring and neat extension splicing is required to make these connections remotely as described.



Four (4) 6/C (6-conductor) cables are needed to make 24 connections to the three (3) 4PDT relays. I used #18 AWG.





I made this proto-board circuit in August 2024. Here you can see the through-hole relays which are Omron KS23051: DC 5V 4P2T 2A. This circuit is powered by 5 VDC sourced from the USB port in the car. To make this work, the relay coils had to be connected in parallel.



Here is the circuit board in a weatherproof enclosure with the cabling brought in with glands. This enclosure is fastened to the left of the steering column, near the wiring penetration to the engine compartment. There is enough space to tuck it away and when secured high and tight it will never touch one's feet and interfere with driving in any way.



I dug up the old layout for proto-board assembly.



Here is the wiring map that I came up with to identify all connections. This is to be interpreted with a left-to-right flow.



Here is the completed assembly, ready for installation.



Here is the wind booster module tucked away with all the splices, the car connection to the module harness is zip tied on top. You can also see the entire cable bundle zip tied loosely to the steering column. This has caused no issues whatsoever in terms of steering impairment, or cable wear. It was pretty much the only option to secure the cabling this high up which is the goal. This has been installed like this since August 2024 and has survived two winters.



This is the control location for activation using one of these illuminated switches. The other one was for something unrelated.

Funny or clever plates. Anybody seen any?

I saw 2 yesterday which made me chuckle.

On the back of an AMG CLA45 - “AMGOMG”

And on the back of a Toyota Hilux - “HIRUX’

I guess the Hilux could potentially offend some people but I thought it was funny. Bit surprised they let it through TBH.

Anybody else seen any funny plates?

Going from JB4 only to these 2 BEF tunes is a really day and night difference. Initially all I wanted to do was the TCU tune but learning about KJT's ECU tune really made me more curious with all the benefits it comes with. This combo is exactly what I was looking for. Burbles, better e85 adaption, better overboost management, more power, more torque, no more jerky downshifts from 3 to 2 that I always noticed. Much smoother shifts in comfort. Also very quick and crisp upshifts and downshifts in sport/custom mode. Here are 2 quick initial impression videos I made today. The burbles are the perfect amount, not too much not too little. The BOV are also much louder, power comes on much smoother and boost builds up FAR faster. No more of that dead throttle feel as well. The exhaust also sounds different, slightly louder and deeper but more refined! You can hear the turbo whistle way more than ever! It sounds so much nicer now even with the stock primaries.

I will say the EK1 device was being an absolute PAIN in the ass. It kept giving issues with the files not being read from the sd card. We ended up having to format the sd card and recreate the folders using initial capitalized letters. Then once we ejected the sd card and turned on the EK1 we saw the files FINALLY. The ek1 was already upgraded and registered online as well. Totally made my day going for a first drive but I was already so tired I will likely capture some more videos at another time. If anyone is on the fence on this ABSOLUTELY GO FOR IT! Hats off to the folks at BMS and KJT. They are a dream team.

My mods besides the BEF: K&N intakes, GFB 9012 BOV, Ark Secondaries, Mbrp Pro Active catback with akrapovic cf tips, eibach springs and sway bars, bms FMIC, bms chargepipes, moshimotto catch can, moshimotto rear camber arms, fuel it ethanol analyzer (so handy if you run e85).