Social Feed

I just got a 2018 gt2 with the 3.3tt and it’s awd. I got the car with a blown motor and I’m now in the market for a motor lol. When I was looking I found that the awd motors are a lot harder to find and cost about 2k more. From my understanding the long blocks are the same. So in that case can I just buy a motor that came out of a rwd and put it in my awd without modifications? Thanks in advance!

2020 GT2
- K&N CAI

- MBRP catback exhaust

- DC Sports Mid pipes

- Single ADD W1 Catch Can

- JB4 with EWG wires and fuel wires (JB4 was recently installed on January 31, 2026)

- Brand new ignition coils

- Brand new HKS plugs gapped to 0.022

- I only use 94 octane or 93, no lower

- Running MAP 1

So around 2k rpm or a little lower sometimes CEL comes on and power cut until I turn the car off and on again and when stopped and coming to a stop once CEL is on car shakes a lot. Seems to happen when going up a hill in low rpm’s. But today it happened just cruising and rpm’s were again around 2k rpm. No codes get thrown unless it happened again within a short amount of time. Codes have been misfires from different cylinders. But when the code shows the cylinders that it’s saying it is aren’t always the same as the last time the code popped up.

Another issue, could be related but I don’t know. But when stopped and when CEL isn’t on, sometimes rpms will sit high around 1k making a revy sound like it’s idling night. And occasionally car will shake (not usually when rpm’s are around 1k idle.

All these symptoms happened before JB4 and was told JB4 would help. It didn’t. Not with these issues anyways.

Trying to diagnose it as much as I can before going to a dealership. Since I am modified I’d into refrain from going to a mechanic. Especially because obviously I don’t want to undo everything so I don’t void warranty. Especially since those symptoms happened before modifying it. Except for the first part of this txt. That seemed to maybe happen somewhere around when I did CAI and exhaust stuff.

2019 stinger GT all-wheel-drive 40,000 miles and our other 2019 GT two with 60,000 miles have both had torque converter leaks from the transmission Bell housing covered under warranty but a real pain in the ass takes nearly a month to get the car back anybody else experiencing this what are the odds both our stingers fell victim to this leak?

Hi folks, I'm excited to take her on the final roadtrip in my bucket list (NC500).

I'm planning on going in March and aiming to be back home before the kids are released from school.

I'm hoping to alternate between hotel and car camping for a balanced budget and experience. My only worry is getting a flat as I have patch kits but hoping I get signal for the AA incase I breakdown.

I really want to do the apple cross pass but given the size of the vehicle, I might skip.

Given the 300mile range I think I'm safe without a petrol can as I will fill up as much as I can between towns

Starting in Inverness, 7 days counter clockwise.

Let me know if you have any tips for this trip.

2018 Kia Stinger GT2 for sale 78K miles $35 - not for sale in California due too CARB regulations
Jonny Tig intakes
Jonny Tig intercooler
Ark exhaust
Presser Tech ECU tune
will add pics this weekend

Hey All,

I’m new to these forms so I apologize if this is in the wrong place.

TL/DR: I have no clue how to safely provide switched 12V power to the LEDs in my steering wheel since I was given raw wires and no instructions from the seller.

I recently got an aftermarket steering wheel for my Stinger that has LEDs. The LEDs are powered by a 12V wire, but I’m unsure of what to tap into. The seller is extremely unhelpful and suggested I take it to a professional, but I’ve already installed the wheel and don’t really want to bring it in if this is simple. I’ve seen people say you can use the headlights wire, but then the LEDs only work at night. I’ve also seen people tap into the heated steering wheel wire for switched power, but I’d prefer an alternative where I don’t need to use heated steering. On other cars, I’ve seen people tap the horn wire, but they report battery discharge issues. I don’t really need heated steering at all so I guess I could just leave it disconnected besides the LEDs if possible? On that note, my wheel also has 4 raw wires for heating, which the seller says I should just plug into the factory adapter after removing the old wires. Has anyone done this? Seems easier than the LEDs but figured I’d add it here in case anyone has input. I’m not sure how to upload pictures, as the two hosting sites I tried did not work in the upload box on this site, so please let me know how to go about that if pictures would be helpful!

Alignment says everything in the green. Air pressure 30-32lbs. Michelin PS4S 265/35 on factory wheel. The only "suspension" mod I've done is sway bars.

Hi folks.
2023 GT here (Canada). When I took my Stinger for a drive last week, it indicated low tire pressure on the front right tire.
The car sits in my garage for most of the winter, so I wasn't surprised.
I brought the tires back up to 33-34 PSI all around, but the message and the icon will not go away.
The manual says the system will reset on it's own. After driving it again today, with several stops to run a few errands, the message is still there.
Any ideas on how to clear it is appreciated.
I have attached a pic (I hope I did anyway).

I love the farts that many cars give off on downshifts. Typically DSGs do it but torque convertors also do it (e.g. BMW ZFs). The sound comes from the ignition cut that is programmed to occur during shifts. This protects the transmission but also keeps the turbo spooled (and makes a great noise).

Here is the G70 doing it in stock form on every gear change:


However, the only time the Stinger does it is from 1-2 and only when using LC.

It must be possible on our platform if the G70 is doing it, is there anyway to get a TCU tune etc to enable it?